Cheers bud, although I just slapped that epoxy on. Going to be covered by sound deadening and carpet anyway. Hoping I could have some pointers actually. My outer window seal/scraper does not want to marry up to each other at all. The clips are in but this gap remains. Its the same for both sides too.
Try take the seal off and try again a few times. Its possible to lose / gain the length in a seal in just how you sit it down. Obviously you can encourage it to be compressed while you are clipping it on just like you can encourage it to stretch a little. I've seen it make the difference of a few inches on something a door seal. Maybe stick it in some warm water if it looks a little brittle. Also stick your wingmirror on briefly to see how much it covers.. you might have the top seal starting too far left you might be able to nudge it all around?
you can also stratch the slot seal a little to make up some length, but if they're in poor condition I think VW heritage sell new ones? or in a pinch you can cut off sections of slot seals from donor cars to make up the gaps edit: also your metal slot seal retainer isnt quite right, it should be snug up to the rear of the door so the metal insert lines up with the upper window seal. the window seal also looks to have shrunk a bit, remove and reseat with a little stretchy-stretchy. The metal clip should touch both the metal retainer and upper window seal
Thanks guys I'll try these recommendations and get back to you. Been turning my attention to the engine bay and loom for the time being. Not as bad as I first thought, although my negative battery terminal is missing completely! I put my spot lights in only to find my looms are incompatible, I'm assuming this is because these are ce2 spotlights? Hoping I can just lob the connector off and attach the right one to the spotlight or loom. Also having issue with the washer jet wiring. Either I've got the wrong washer jets attached but other than that I don't know because the pass side washer jet connector is the wrong one plus its far too short. You can see it on the bottom right of the photo. Cheers again for the feedback and help.
All my CE2 cars have had the plug on the left for the headlights and spots. My dads CE1 car had the right, I assume the right is the car loom?
ce2 spots have a water resistant packard timer as you have there, ce1 its a 2 pin spade plug. either way the wiring pokes out the back of the main headlamp for each side. easy enough to convert either way its only 2 pins, or you can swap the lamp looms just pop off the back and fit ce1 version headlight washer jet wiring is a separate section which runs along the bonnet and down the passenger hinge, then plugs into a connector poking out the back of the scuttle from the inside not on either of the engien bay looms the 2 pin plug in the scuttle poking out with the wiper wiring is for the KR ecu loom
You had a heat gun and we couldn’t hear anything! other than that, a job well done! I’ve got all these soul destroying tasks to do
Since the world has been pushed off the edge of a cliff a few months ago I have been furloughed, so you'd think I would have bags of time. Nope. The fiancée is a care manager so the strain has been great on her so I've been full time house wife, juggling three kids and running the house. That being said, things have been ticking over here and there. Front and rear brakes installed. 280mm G60 brakes I did a 6n2 stub axle conversion on the rears, as after the faff I had with the old tapered bearing set up I just fell out with it. Plus I wont have to go back and adjust this every few months or so Handbrake cables in. However I'm missing the plate that the cables run through. Started sound deadning and re installing the heater matrix etc. Swapped the pulleys for the KR ones Heres a question for people on the know. The water pump and hoses are ABF. This bottom one from the WP is not compatible with the KR coolant hoses, can I just use the ABF hoses without routing issues? And does anyone know which hose I need? It looks like theres a circlip or some sort of clamp that belongs on the ABF plastic housing there too. And lastly the last major piece of the puzzle arrived just the other day. 2.25 Stainless Steel Trackslag exhaust system. Pretty sweet. I have had the engine cranking over btw. The one thing thats held me back is the wiring. Itw so brittle and butchered, there's been several occasions where I have attempted to reconnect things when I've either had the wire or connector just brake off in my hand. Its been a real ball ache.
use a mk2 thermostat flange then mk2 lower hose fits straight on, use the mk2 top hose as well to match the radiator. rest of the block hoses can stay ABF
Good updateds Phil! You won't be dissapointed with the trackslag system, it sounds brilliant, loud when you want it, quiet just pootling about and not droney at all. the polo rear conversion was one of my fav mods, easy to do and going to proper bearings is good, sod the tapered stuff. did you go for the thinner pads Adlai talked about a few weeks back, it allows you to run the standard wheels without folwing the caliper on the wheel
Aye mate cheers, we are edging ever closer to this thing getting started. I'm torn whether to run spacers or just buy the thinner pads. I believe 5mm spacers would do. I'm leaning towards spacers because I bought EBC pads aaaages ago before I realised the RA's would foul the G60 calipers. Do you have a link to the place that sells them thinner pads?