1987 16v mk2 golf resto - paint is on!

Discussion in 'Members Gallery' started by Coakers, Jul 27, 2016.

  1. Alex mac Forum Member

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    Great thread mate, keep it coming.
     
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  2. Coakers

    Coakers Forum Member

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    In need of an update this does. Ok progress has been slow. Baby on the way, a change of job (now working at Jaguar/LandRover) and all the ususal other life stuff that takes up much of your time.

    Put it on a set of wheels after sorting the rear axle issue.
    [​IMG]

    I did have a problem with the bearings not seating prooperly. I wish I'd just upgraded yo polo 6n2 bearings from the get go.

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    I'm now making brake lines, what a headache. I'll upload some more of my wonky attempts but this is my first time making them.

    [​IMG]
     
  3. Coakers

    Coakers Forum Member

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    Wanted to repaint the grill, as its something I can do at home and since it takes 40 minutes to get to the unit from my house I could do with doing bits here while I can. So heres the grill[br][br][​IMG][br][br]Utter coincidence that its come off a monza blue car, I've particularly dropped on with it as it's come with a ultra uncommon early 16v badge and from an '87 car. [br][br]Check the back of the badge.[br][br][​IMG][br](May 87)[br][br]After stripping it I tried to remove the spotlight locating screws. 2 were rusted and the heads just stripped when i took a screwdriver to them. Does anyone know were I can get replacements and how to remove the entire screw and housing? [br][br][​IMG][br][br][​IMG][br][br]Such a daft thing to be stuck on I know, but stuck I am but this isn't the only thing I have been doing, I'm slowly but surely re-newing all the brake lines. What a massive pain its been but ultimately satisfying when its gone right. I'll do a full write up on that when they are finished.
     
  4. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    use a tall socket to support the rear of the clip, then bash the screw out with a screwdriver or drift. then the clip should pop out easily, replace adjuster :)

    the screw has a ball head which pushes into that clip like a ball and socket you see. heritage do new adjuster clip sets
     
  5. Coakers

    Coakers Forum Member

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    Excellent mate cheers, its guys like you that keep this community going strong [:D].
    I'm just quite scared of damaging the grill plastic so i thought I'd seek advice first.
     
  6. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    the alternative way is attack the clip with snips as you're going to replace it anyway ;)
     
  7. Coakers

    Coakers Forum Member

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    Yeh I ended up using a craft knife to cut the plastic shrouds of the screws and that did the job. Then sanded the grill down with 220 grit.

    [​IMG]

    Painted with Simoniz tough satin black paint. But then came the masking for the gti stripe. What a pain. It's not come up very well so I will re-do it at some point but it'll do for now.[​IMG]

    And since it's winter

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    Finished result.

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    I used 2x epoxy to repair the broken spot light fixing hole. Ain't pretty but it'll hold.[​IMG]
     
  8. Coakers

    Coakers Forum Member

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    Well the hard brake lines are pretty much finished. I used a brake line flaring tool from Vintage65. It did make good consistent flares.

    [​IMG]

    Oh yeh don't buy cheap brake line clips made in China. They're not fit for purpose. Non-gen top.

    [​IMG]

    I still need to tidy the routing of the fronts, I do quite regret not replecating the factory set-up by just using 2 chambers of the M/C and just using the t-piece as it makes the bay just look messy. My wonky lines don't help like but this is my first time making lines. That's my excuse and I'm sticking to it.

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    Getting the kunifer lines to bend the way you want them is a real pain too but I'm just about there now.

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    I say just about because on the very last flare of the very last brake line my flaring tool disintegrated.

    [​IMG]
     
  9. Coakers

    Coakers Forum Member

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    Took a while but the engines in. [​IMG].

    [​IMG]

    First time this car has had an engine for 2 years.

    Don't have much feeling left in my hands or feet but it's worth it. Took me ages to figure out that I was sold a LH steering UJ boot that was meant to be a RH obviously. Good ol vosswagen.

    I've got to get the shell back to bare metal as the etch primer has perished and there's lots of surface rust showing through.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  10. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    good work! quick one before you go any further, swap the thermostat housing for a mk2 golf one then the lower rad hose will fit much better. may as well do the stat while you're there
     
  11. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    actually saying that, depends what radiator you're planning to fit. the top hose looks to be for a mk3 abf radiator?
     
  12. Coakers

    Coakers Forum Member

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    Cheers Rubjohnny [:D] yeh you 're spot on, this was Rye1991's abf before he went Vr6t. I'm going to use an 8v rad as the last time I checked there aren't many reproduction 16v rads out there, it has been a while but when i looked there were plenty of people trying to flog 1.6 rads as 16v, they have the same height and width but the core size is different.

    So I'm going with the 8v rad since its much bigger than the 16v rad for reasons I have no idea why., I still need the top and bottom 8v hoses but I've not set about getting these yet.

    Further 'progress' with the stripping (again). I've bought six cans of electrox

    [​IMG]

    That should keep the metal plague at bay.

    But when I started stripping the primer, I forgot how much filler work was done by the body shop, however where there wasn't filler and just etch primer, there was surface rust so I tried to go around it but like a scab when i took a chunk off the filler I ended up taking the whole lot off.

    [​IMG]

    It was at varying stages of being flatted and since you can only apply electrox to bare metal anyway. It killed me to undo work that I paid, but it was mainly used on the drivers side door. And when you look at the condition of it you can see why.

    [​IMG]

    I'm not just re priming the car the car because of the etch primer. I'm planning on taking the car out of the unit and putting it on my drive. I know I'll never be able to work on it down there when the baby is here and I'm paying £120 A month for the privilege so it just makes sense.

    I've set myself the goal if having the car finished by next year.

    [​IMG]

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  13. Rooster

    Rooster Paid Member Paid Member

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    I’ve just caught up with your great thread. Congratulations for keeping it going and getting this far. You’re managing the budget, time, daily life balance really well,love the fact you’re going with the original monza blue. Have a great Christmas
     
  14. Coakers

    Coakers Forum Member

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    Thanks very much pal, when you are this far down the rabbit hole you have no real other option other than to keep going. Got the car back today. Definitely a weight off my mind. Hopefully things will speed up a bit now too.

    [​IMG]
     
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  15. Coakers

    Coakers Forum Member

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    Still plugging away doing bits and bobs, not had many eventful updates of late, preoccupied by uncertainty of my new job at jaguar/landrover and more importantly the arrival of my baby daughter on the 29th December have took the majority of my time.

    The car is back on the drive.

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    It's shocking how quickly rust can get a foothold even though it's under a waterproof cover. I've gone over and hydrate 80'd all the bits that have showing the slightest bit of rust.

    Turned my attention to the fuel pumps, or more specifically the fuel pump casings. The brackets for these are brittle and the screws that retain the main fuel pump rust away completely making them nigh on impossible to remove. 2 of mine luckily came out by turning the drill to anti-clock and they whizzed out. The third one... Just never.

    I tried to dremel a slice in the head so I could use a flat headed screwdriver but the head was just basically mush. Then it just broke off completely.

    Leaving the stem of the screw. Very disheartened I was.

    [​IMG]

    So u left it and bought another for £23.00. No you didn't read that wrong (usually these casings go for £100+) and it came with the accumulator and main fuel pump (which he said was knackard). The seller also said that his was leaking. Which I hope I've rectified by plastic welding the seam that goes around the diameter of the casing.

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    I started taking bits off when I started removing the banjo bolts for the fuel pump/accumulator and the brackets that hold the accumulator snapped. Completely.

    That's when I broke out the araldite and miliput. Yes it's ugly as sin but it'll hold together.

    [​IMG]

    It'll look better when it's painted. I will replace it at some point or fab up something from scratch as a future project.

    Next is the inlet/exhaust manifolds. Wanted the mating surfaces smooth so it was came 400 grit wet sanding.

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    That's better.

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    I didn't want to use too harsh a grit just in case I caused issues.

    The inlet was distorted in the middle two
    It's a poor picture but it looks like it's been dropped at some point.

    [​IMG]

    Luckily a bought a spare KR engine with head, injector lines and lower inlet for £10.50 on a single eBay bid 2 years ago.
    So I took that apart. The inlet to head bolts weren't playing ball.

    [​IMG]

    What a brilliant tool these bolt removers are. I dont need to stress (as much) about rounded off bolts anymore!

    One last thing which held me back a bit was the brass inserts in the inlet. Had to buy a 13mm Allen key to get them out.

    [​IMG]

    Does anyone know of I'm ok to reuse these? Or is it worth paying £30 for new ones?
     
  16. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    yhou can reuse the brass bits, just need new square profile seals and plastic inserts if cracked
     
  17. Coakers

    Coakers Forum Member

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    Oh I also had the bonnet, tailgate, slam panel and lower valance shot blasted.

    [​IMG]

    And painted the lower valance and underside of the bonnet body colour. The underside of the bonnet came out pretty poorly.

    [​IMG]

    Lower valance was much better. I don't mind painting these parts myself as the majority of them are going to be hidden or in the lower valances case, pelted with road debris.

    [​IMG]
     
  18. Coakers

    Coakers Forum Member

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    Yeh got replacement plastic inserts, unsure about the square profile seats though? Have you got a part no. Rubjohnny?
     
  19. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    sure do, 035133557 :) Slip those up your plastic inserts, clip them to the brass parts. give the rubber a bit of lube and screw in :thumbup:
     
  20. stephcasscar Paid Member Paid Member

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    Keep at it dude , little and often is my moto since I’ve started back on car stuff again.

    On your master cylinder, are you using a 4 port system , I didn’t notice any t joints and splitting , have you gone straight to Caliper with a 4 point MC
     

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