yeah, i found that out.. but where does it go i have 1 small wire which it could of come off.. but it runs down inside the plastic from the live terminal (is this it).. and my battery light didnt come on, when it was connected, neither when it was disconnected
right, sorted alternator problem, got it timed up.. and it WAS rapid!!!!!!!! Now lets just say, i enjoyed it while it lasted anyone want a Pack A TSR Head? ,just had it skimmed, new valve guides, seats, stem seals etc?????? 2.0 Dizzy Adaptor ring 20? Used for 1 day? 2.0 MK3 alternator?. .. the list goes on... all for sale! cheers
basically, my engine seized Just got my built 2.0 8v on the road.. and it didnt do more than 60 miles!! the timing was setup, aswell as fuelling.. but it struggled to turn over... the engine seemed really tight oil pressure was great, water levels also.... but going towards plymouth on the motorway at 70mph, i hear my fuel pump start struggling like the engine is under load... then it slows right down so i had to dip the clutch to come to a rolling stop! the water temp was half way Timing was correct on both dizzy and cam marks.. and was checked 4 times! rocked the car in 5th and the cam didnt move... 5 of us managed to get it to unstick... then after 10 seconds it seized up proper good... i was towed by a 1.1 4 speed metro into ivybridge i was told it may be a bent conrod , but it didnt sound like one, and my block is still in 1 peice! other thing was that it could be hydraulic lock... where water could of seeped into the bore and locked it solid.. i checked my oil, it was fine.. MAIN THING, whyy did it seize... WHY was the engine so tight... .. i thought it was tight because of the compression ratio which must have been about 11:1 as i had to retard the timing 2 or 3 degrees from standard to stop it pinking... but obviously this wasnt the case! any idea??
One of the downsides to buying 2nd hand... bad luck bud. Look on the bright side, put the 1800 back in for now and re-build the 2ltr. The c.r wont have caused it, though it will have been high if you had to knock off 2 degree's. Strip it and find out what went wrong.
hopefully its the cam which seized.... the real stupid thing is, there was no foreign noises when the engine decided to die.... no metalic sounds or anything.. it sounded sweet, except the revs were dying i dont want to take the engine out AGAIN.. so ill take the cambelt off, and see which pulley doensnt turn!.. the work on that end of the engine.. what sort of CR do you think it must have been... above 11:1? cheers
Dude dont get dis heartend!! this happened to me with a mini project i had, brand new engine and gearbox and about a month after having it in the car the gear box blew!! All had to come back out again [:^(] like Mr hillclimber said, get the old motor back in and after xmas once you stopped bein ****ed off with it u can rebuild the 2 ltr!! IT WILL BE WORTH IT like you said! im sorry 4 u man but keep it up!!!
mmm, i am pretty ****ed off about it!! found out tonight that it is the bottom end thats gone, not the cam! i dont really want to spend any more money on gaskets.. but as it stands i wont be using my car till after new year anyway so may just drop out the crank and go from there].. thats my christmas day sorted
Hey... haven't been on here much of late. Sorry to hear about the engine. I had one do something similar, and I never really got to the bottom of it. I do know with hindsight that I'd made a couple of schoolboy errors in building that engine though. Did it have oil pressure before you ran it (did the warning light go out before you started it)? Once you take the crank out, you need to change the con-rod bolts, so there's not much difference between that and the cost of a head off job. Chances are you'll need another bottom end, and your other one is shot, so you might as well buy another 2.0 as you've got all the bits. At the very least, take the cam out and check the bearing surfaces, and condition of the lobes. It could be the cam was bent or something. It's also worth ruling out simple problems like sheared woodruff keys in cam or crank.
i had oil pressure etc etc.... and the question alot of people asked was... "did you have oil in it" ... .. i got so annoyed about that.. i dont think i made any school boy errors on this engine.. i made sure i done everthing properly and to not rush it... the cam being bent, could that cause it? and do you reckon its worth getting a crank if i can get hold of one.. or do you reckon a whole new bottom end.. i was hoping i could pick up a crank and renew the shells, rather than get a whole new bottom end... only because i dont want my new head gasket and bolts to go to waste after 60 miles... i was hoping to take the sump off, and drop the crank and pistons out, not touching the head bolts etc... sheared "woodruff keys" ?.. maybe a differnt wording for debris? i dunno haha and yeh tbh mike, i was hoping nothing bad happend as you havent posted in a while
if you want to take the pistons out its a head off job. if its just the crank, then its sump off. I would get a different bottom end personally, if its seized the damage could be more than main and big end damage. woodruff key failure, the little key that drives the cam and crank pulley is becoming more popular these days.
You really need to strip it and see. It could be a few different things. It's quite easy to damage a cam during fitting. The tightening sequence and torque is important. A crank, set of shells, con rod bolts, etc, will cost as much as another bottom end.
hmm, i WAS hoping it may be something small on the bottom end .. but as you say, it would be better renewing the bottom end! AGAIN i saw one in my friends shed a couple of nights ago.. im wondering if he needs it also my bottom end has a 16v sump.. with more baffles.. is this worth swapping over? my cam, i admit, i put the rocker cover on, drove it home. and then wondered if i tightened the cam bolts.. which i checked and they was tight! but i didnt torque them, and didnt do the im a specific order... wouldnt a knackered cam bent my valves and that.. i dont see how a bent cam would seize a bottom end.. i could see it bending valves and running like a bag of peanuts though... cheers *Merry Christmas*
16v sump is the same as 8v one with no baffles fitted by VW, so you have a modified one. so i would swap it. you have to tighten cams down in a specific order, and if its too tight who knows what may happen.
The cam wouldn't have wrecked the bottom end unless it's filled the engine with swarf, and it probably hasn't, with the few miles it did. It's a highly stressed component though, and needs to be done properly. You can inspect it for wear on the lobes and tappets. That'll give you a good clue.
hmm, i was thinking, that if it would cost me the same amount to get the work done on this engine, as it would to get another bottom end, why dont i just fanny around with this one, because then at least id know that its been done... rather than spending out on a bottom end which may have the same fate.. cheers
right, im at least going to look into having the bottom end done.. i found its roughly 10 per journal to have done what else would i need to look at.. and any help with prices would be much appreciated.. - big end grinding (if there is such thing) OR do i just get new bearings as you dont grind that.. - conrod bolts - Knife edge crank - balanced?? - lighted pistons - conrod alignment and ovality? - big end shells - piston rings.. << these are mint, but would you change them anyway? - ***main bearings*** << These the journal bearings? what sort of prices for that stuff.. cheers
