they are sat either side of main bearing number 3 and stop the crank moving side ways when you engaging the clutch in & out
you dont grind big ends conrod bolts, if your on a budget, i would re use, i have in the past with no problems knife edge crank, why? balancing, VW balancing is very good, unless you start having things lightened dont bother lightened pistons, ?????? conrod alignment and ovality, get them checked, new big end bearings providing the crank isnt damaged piston rings, its up to you, if they are good leave them alone main / crank bearings are a must if it seized they will be fooked. I would say that about 200 on bearings and bolts etc, plus any machining on top of that personally for your setup i would go and buy http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VW-VOLKSWAGEN-GOLF-MK3-8V-2-0-2L-GTI-2E-ENGINE-FIT-MK2_W0QQitemZ280254533408QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item280254533408&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1301%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318
As Alan above, there are many things listed you just dont need to bother with unless you have the budget for it, and even then the results are very.. very small. An unground crank is also much better than a ground one unless it really needs doing. Have you stripped it yet to see whats wrong with it ?
hi all, my internet broke so havent been able to get on... as you have said alan, whats the point in some of this stuff.. i guess i wanted it done to say its got this, this and this... but like you have said, there isnt any point... im currently looking for another 2.0 block... but meanwhile im stripping the bottom end.. ill find out soon..
I wouldn't bother with a lot of that for a road engine. One minor point... I've seen and measured VW cranks with reground big-ends. Any reason why you shouldn't grind them, Al?
i have never seen a reground big end tbh mike, and the engines i have built in the past, mainly 5 pots dotted with the odd 4 pot i have never seen any real wear on the big ends, the problem with regrinding is the oversize bearings. Ive reground main bearing with out a problem, so maybe im just waffling.
I'll get down the garage with the vernier later, and double check the one I've got (came from a C&R engine kit) I'm sure both sets of bearings have been reground -0.25mm, and badly at that. W bearings Either way though, I'd agree that std bearings are probably better for most purposes, and easier to get hold of.
hi all, ive had no internet for a while, and wont have it for the next 2 weeks, but ill try and get on when i can! ive stripped the 2.0 bottom end, and ALL the big ends have spun, and one of them was in the shape of a "W" .. ill add pictures later i took off all the journals, and the crank is welded to the block... the conrods are all the colours of the rainbow... im suprised the rods didnt go through the block there was so much shrapnel in the sump it was unreal!! i believe the engine must have lost oil pressure just before it seized.. ive now just put a 1800 bottom end back in, untill i find another 2.0 block which il can build.. cheers
That's properly seized... at least you're not left worrying if it's OK to rebuild! Have you got the head off and checked the valves and cam are OK?
yeh its a gonner and yeh i had the head off, checked it out.. it all seems good... errm, the crank seized with all 4 pistons in a line... half way down the bore.. does this mean anything?...
Not that I can think of... Had you had the bottom end apart? Check the cam carefully for damage on the lobes & bearings, before you re-use it.
im using a different 1800.. and for some reason, it lacks power.. basically, ive adjusted the timing, advance and retard...and still no power.... i guess it could be the fueling, but surely not that bad.. as its on the weber.. its sort of normal on acceleration untill i go into the 2nd choke.. and thats when it makes a load of noise like the car is going somewhere quick.. except its NOT err, also.. it hunts quite abit... drops from 1000 to 600 rpm on a average.. ive adjusted the fuelling but it still doesnt do much... maybe the timing? cheers guys
Cam timing? Dirt in the carb? Compression problem? There's less value in doing a compression check until you've checked the cam timing though.
its a K jet 1800 head... i think.. and the camshaft in it, makes the ignition timing a 1-2-4-3 like a fiesta.... its not ignition lead error as it runs on all 4.... just incase you think its a school boy error.. the idling has steadied up now.. ***EDIT***::: Ive just remembered, that when i start it up from cold... it runs VERY lumpy, like the timing is retarded.... Reckon its cam timing?.. although im confident it was done correctly, i checked it...*** when warm, it still pulls on the 1st choke..(ish) ... the 2nd choke just makes a cheesy noise... like its going somehwere, but its not like i said... could a cracked exhaust manifold cause this...... even though i wudnt of thought so, id better ask if im honest, i havent done the distributor timing off a timing gun just yet.. but ive test driven it, adjusted it and driven it again over and over.... still no change.. it cant be that far out as it has some beans down low... but not above 3.5k could this be some sort of vacuum leak on a 2nd choke or sumthing?? ok... that was a stupid question...... but im stumped...!! .. i really am.. so dont know what else to suggest.. its very hard to explain without you being here to test drive it TBH i thought at 1st it may be the dizzy vac advance... but on idle, i took it off and you notice a change in the engine activity so that obviously suggests its working! ive adjusted the fuelling from rich to lean.. and gone through alot of petrol test driving it.. still no change *** EDITED NEAR TOP***
if its got go down low, then check cam and ignition timing, sounds like ignition to me, try setting it by hand and having a quick test, you can usually hear the engine sound smoother when its close to where it should be. what block are you using?
