This project started in late 2008 early 2009 and its still going. Bills, cost of living, and getting shafted with prices for car parts in the UK has made this project so slow but finally there is a light at the end of the tunnel and hopefully before the end of the year this Lupo will be driving. First of was getting the subframe modded and a front cross member attached to the car to make it look like a MK3 Golf 16v/VR6 layout... Lupo Gti subframe cleaned up and ready for custom mods.. Lupo Gti subframe with cups in each corner attached, then subframe was seam welded and powder coated.. Mk3 Golf 16v/VR6 crossmember had to be cut to size to fit the smaller Lupo chassis...It was then cleaned up and 2 L shaped brackets attached so it could be welded to the front of the car....At the same time driver's side chassis rail was cut and boxed to clear all pulleys and passenger side chassis rail had a arch cut into it then boxed for future 6 speed box upgrade.......Once i was happy that dummy engine and gearbox was sitting in the correct manner all panels were prepped, etched primed and resprayed Reflex Silver Metallic...That's it for the mean time. Next will be drive train mods until then enjoy the weekend.
Good morning members. The next part of my project will be driveshafts and hub conversion. The driver's side long driveshaft was the correct length i only needed to change the gearbox flange end to 100mm... The passenger side driveshaft is Mk3 golf 16v/vr6 gearbox end and Lupo sport hub end sleeved together and seam welded.. Once i was happy with both driveshafts i started with the rear end hub conversion as that was a case of one of one on using Skoda Fabia Vrs parts....... The front end was not so straight forward after a few days spent on the interweb i got me a spare set of hubs from a Polo Gti 6N2 and had them remachined.... 3 of the 4 holes were plugged and then each hub was redrilled to 5x100. That's all for now. Have a good Sunday until the next installment.
This is going to be a serious bit of kit! Your fabrication and quality of work looks top notch! Excited to see the finished product
Some good fabrication work there. On the drive shaft have you welded the ends together, then sleeved it? or is this just a tube welded at the ends? I am thinking about how to best shorten a prop shaft on a car for another potential project and did not think of this cunning idea.
Some serious work going on there. I'm wondering if your front X-member needs more bracing to the front legs. I'm thinking that it's only really got strength front to rear, not side to side. Might cause the metal to flex and maybe fatigue over time, and although that end plate is pretty thick, the length of drop might be a weak point. Are you going for an 02A box to handle the extra power? I'm assuming that's why you had to cut and shut the shaft, as I'd have thought (guessing) 020 shafts would be just about right... or is it because the tight engine bay forces you to mount the engine in a different position from the original Mk3 (?) install?
hi there do you need any Lexan (polycarbonate) windows, i was asked yesterday if i knew anyone who wants a full set, if your interested i can find out more
Hi all measurements were calculated and forwarded to me from German Lupo Club as none of the UK Lupo's that had 20vt conversion were giving any info and i have to be honest everything has fitted like a glove.Only difference is where i have seam welded my front end these German guys have nut and bolted theirs.
The braking department even though it was very good (280mm G60) set up more stopping power will be needed. Better to be safe than sorry. The master cylinder is from the Seat Ibiza Cupra 1999 to 2001 model year comes in handy for this conversion what with it been a stubby with 23mm cylinder all helps towards braking effort. HI-spec 300mmx28mm 2 piece discs and 4 pot calipers. .....
Ian Carvell raced a 20vt Lupo for a while in the VW Cup, IIRC. It might be worth trying to check what he did with his - I never saw it, incidentally. It sounds like what you're doing will certainly work. I just think there might be an opportunity to make it better. It probably depends what you're going to do with the car as well. Extra stiffness would bring more benefit if you're going to race or trackday it. If it's a road or 1/4 mile car then it probably matters less.
Thank you for your info every little bit of information is taken on board. Main purpose of build is a high speed road car for European road trips ie Worthersee. Some 1/4 mile times would be good and Nurburgring also comes to mind.
I guess it's just on my mind right now. I'm looking for ways to stiffen up the front of a Mk2 Scirocco at the minute. In a modern shell with a subframe, you've probably got more stiffness to start with.