2.0TSR Driver - more power

Chris you sl*g - didnt see you at chippenham, are you going to inters this year?

*Just to stir this topic up a little - I dont believe even a slightly modded KR would touch maccers motor now.

 

Ive just gone to a 4 branch from a flowed original & the 4 branch is better......

 

Well i've gone 20v Turbo POWER now so 8/16V boy's don't bother me at all!!

 

Ahhh poo...I shouldn't have sold my 4 branch

Is there much gain with a flowed cast manifold over a standard cast manifold? Long term plans are for a 20vt, so don't want to invest much in fitting my 2.0l.

 

Okey dokey, I've got a Weber carb, and have read that a 4 into
1 exhaust is better at a specific rev range, but a 4-2-1 is better
over the whole rev range.

TSR have offered the following:
a stainless 4-branch manifold for 264inc. vat and a Jetex
system for 270.

Next question, how much is the TSR manifold vs a matched/
flowed original (I have also read that there is a debate about
original vs replacement manifolds, with noise and heat playing
a major part), and which exhaust is "best". I like Jetex, Milltek
and Magnex.

Chipped diesel vs 16 valver: my A4 will easily better 40 mpg
and can carry more than a 16V.

2500 is a lot of money, but that was 8 years ago, and how
many 1.8T engines were on the 2nd hand market??? Also how
much does that compare with fitting a non injected car with fuel
injection?

Thank you for the advice (those that kept to the original post
and offered advice)
Steve

 

I wouldn't worry about heat and noise of a 4 branch. I had a TSR 4 branch and jetex stainless steel system on my last 8v and so long as you heat wrap the 4 branch you won't have any probs. Not noisey at all I would consider fitting a vibratech front engine mount (not cheap!) or something a lot stiffer than OE if you decide to use a 4 branch.

 

That is a very simple thing to do on the golf - jus fit the pumps and fuel lines and a few extra wires and you're ready to go.

 

I beat 2 20v Turbo cars at santa pod in my 16v.

 

I bet you go on Holiday to Elevenerife too!!!

 

Torque gives you acceleration in gears and flat out.

Chris's is very quick and would give a standard or 2 litre valver a very hard time....it had good grunt everwhere.

One of the best Golfs I have seen other than MAD20v's was a car TSR built using a 2 litre block a late cross flow head big valves TB's and Bills DTA mapping.....nearly 200bhp AND loads more torque everwhere....very very quick and probably the ultimate 8V.

Ian

 

Thanks Ian...

I certainly wouldnt dare put my car in 2L 16v territory as an overall package, & its certainly some way off on track, as is to be expected..

BUT, on the road I can happily dice with a friends 2L 16v mk2 (circa 135atw @ TSR). It might have a bit more top end power, but point to point on a road it cant use it all the time..

The 8v is a grunty motor that doesnt need massive revs to make it shift & its possible to drive it quickly using the excellent torque....

Its a pity Tub cant seem to accept that the ultimate BHP isnt the be all and end all, & the 16v, good as it is, standard & modified, certainly isnt invincible...

We all know ure a 16v convert Tub, but that doesnt mean you need to fight the corner regardless.

Yes you have a quick car, but your one-up-manship is getting boring..Why dont you concentrate making it as fast as IanBs..

For someone who used to have a "quick" 8v, I thought youd have a bit more appreciation that a capacity increase & Big Valves can make a healthy difference, & accept it, rather than telling everyone how much better your car still is....

 

Sorry...Am I the only one concerned about the spec and state of the original poster's car.

If you had just spent the best part of 3000 on a 2l engine conversion and doubtless other toys, would you be selling it for 800?
I fecking wouldn't!!
The engine alone (in good nick) would sell for a large chunk of that.

 

Even with my healthy figures on my valver as Chris has pointed out a well done 8V which doesn't cost the earth is actually quicker in everyday driving on the road where you can sometimes and regularly get caught out in the gears in a 16 valve.
Even on my car to make serious progress against modern machinery including diesels you have to rag a valver.
Not everyone drives like that.The 16 valve will potter along but whereas an 8V like Chris's will pull much better low down it will regularly catch the 16 valve driver napping.
The valver is better suited to track work or high speed Euro driving.
Our 20V Turbo GTI has 230+ and over 240lbs and as a road car and everyday driver it is much quicker. My valver is quicker flat out around a track but you'd have to be continually in a low gear on the road to keep up with the MKIV not a relaxing experience.Typical experience on a motorway is changing down when the traffic moves on ahead of you.
The torque of the MKIV is very useful low down from as little as 1800 rpm.

Ian

 

Shame you didn't make Stealth Chris
Hope you mums ok
Ian

 

The engine conversion was done 8 years ago. The spec and
state of my car are OK, the condition is excellent.

But for about 800 you could get a tidy 8V/16V with similar
performance, which was my logic, and the logic of the seller.

The insurance is similar to a GTI where I live (dodgy postcode
of Bristol, parked on the street).

A modified car is never worth the amount spent on it.

Cheers,

Steve

 

Thanks mate....Mum looks better than the mx5

Will have to book it in again....

I take it you have said all you are gonna say ref 8v & 16v then Tub??

Probably best

 

Hi
if I wanted max power (no pun intended) for min cost,I would fit a late 8v gti manifold and downpipe with a 2 box stainless system. Get a Pack C head with 40mm inlet and 38mm exhaust valves. Fit a Weber 32/34 dmtl (used on cars up to 2.6l anyway) or investigate the 34/36 dmtl? that Big Boys Toys has as a kit. Dont bother with the dcoes as there aint enough space anyway, let alone the air feed probs + exhaust manifold heat, and balancing issues. Downdraught carbs are underrated. The optimum aim is to get a easonably equal balance between torque and hp along the power curve.Also replace the mechanical fuel pump and get your fuel at the optimun presure with a regulator.
If you want real power then get a crossflow head, throttle bodies, custom mapping etc.
or just buy a 20vt
I seem to recall that Tub is always harping on about how good HIS stuff is as well. Theres loads of people on here that have bloody fast cars.

Basically, you got a bloody good deal for 800.
Edited by: bones

 

Tub not saying you haven't beaten two 20vt's but how many other 20vt's have beaten you?
Also I remember how you used to say your old 8v was a 16v killer, that mean your current 16v is slower than your old 8v???

Just wondering.

 

Sorry didn't mean to say it was crap, I was more interested why the seller would sell a 2l pro-conversion Mk2 8v for only 800. Let me know if he has any more!!!

I agree it would never worth over 3000 but a 2l lump with a PB head (with head work?) would go for most of your 800 by itself if in good nick.

 

Because its "only" a Driver, not a GTi...is why it was cheap. Still a damned good buy if you ask me...

A Driver that can upset many a supposedly quicker car no doubt...

Add a Pair of 40s & a Pack C head & your looking at the thick end of 170BHP