The 12" refers to the size of the fan not the housing (well it did to the 10" fan i bought) so the mounting spacing is closer to 12" on mine, NOT 10" However,it all depends on how tall the rad is,mine is 322mm iirc & it works out very close. Bottom rad hose might dictate where the fan can go too so take that in to account too.
i have for sale audi 80 fans that were off my vr6 rad if your interested, most powerful fans evarrrr!! only got rid as my new setup inc large TB means it simply didnt fit. other than that i have fitted 12" to my vr6 rad and that seems a sensible size, dont think youd get away with a 14"
andy do the audi 80 fans fit in the bay without taking too much room? are they much bigger/ deeper than slim lines as it could be a squeeze. are the push or pull or either depending on wiring?
i am hoping to actually get my engine out soon, at last!!!! so being as i do not think i can get an engine crane what do people suggest as the easiest way to remove my 8v engine. if i get it up on axle stands with a jack or 2 supporting the front cross member then drop the whole lot at once? engine, box, cross member the whole shabang!? cheers
just a quick question about the shallow sump? i have read somewhere about it not having the oil level sensor or something like that so does that mean something has to be changed on the loom or something to make it work properly? or am i missing the point and if so what does it mean? thanks
indeed, you running oem ecu? will need to be linked out and run some gauges to keep a note of the oil level and pressure.
yes will be oem loom, i will be running a oil pressure gauge but didnt know anything about the need to change anything for a shallow sump. Is there anyone who makes one that keeps the oil level as normal?! i have seen a baffled race sump that keeps the oil level but it is really expensive.
not on the yank import sumps ive seen. there are two types, one for turbos-hard to get hold of, then the ones more comonly seen in the UK now for non turbos, so you have to get the oil feed tapped in. neither have the provision for the std sensor to fit into.
Hows the car Ditchyboy?? i'm all up and running on stage 2 revo software + all req'd hardware and i'm loving every second! Porsche brakes up next, HID's and thinking about something a bit special for next year got another 20VT here so i might "build2 another lump over the next 12 months or so for a BT conversion :-D Cant wait for inters 2011 now to 1/4 mile here
hi vee dubber, sorry for slack reply. Glad you are loving the car, im still faffing around with mine as had all sorts on at home. I am getting nearer to starting properly though as my new garage door should be on by mid feb allowing better access and ease of use. On another note guys and gals can someone point me in the right direction for a brake master cylinder that includes a reservoir for my hydro clutch conversion. thanks
Do you know what rado that is off phil?shall I just keep my m/c?read some peoples threads etc on the Subject and they had problems with the engine rocking back onto them so a smaller one was recommended but have also seen some builds keeping the original,all a bit confusing!
i have a mocal oil cooler but need to get piping and i need a thermostat or sandwich plate for it. can anyone recommend what i should get or what i need as i literally have just the cooler it self. please point out from here: http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/OIL-COOLERS/c2267/index.html cheers
any ideas lads, i really dont know what sandwich plate etc i need. i know i will need oil lines and connectors that i can find out nearer the time of fitting but i need to know about sandwich plate / thermostat thanks
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/HOT-ROD-KIT-C...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item336435afe2 Get something similar to that kit in the link above, i had an oil filter relocation kit with 13 row cooler on my old drift car. if you fit a sandwich plate between the filter and housing on the 20vt then there's a good chance the filter will hit the front cross member. failing that solid front and rear mounts will solve that issue. also its worth mentioning that solid mounts will save the engine hitting the brake master cylinder... i dont believe the engine mill foul the clutch master but then i went with the cable option on mine.
ok i will bear in mind that it might hit the front cross member. i have a solid front mount, not sorted rear mount yet. Is the only way to get a sandwich plate or relocation kit? also do i need it to have a thermostat? cheers
I'd advise a thermostat really. oil being the life blood of your engine needs to get warm before it starts doing its job correctly. its a good idea to have a stat if its going to be a daily driver. if its for track use however, you could prob get away with it. I Made some solid bushes to replace my swiss cheese rubber bushes on my mounts. you'll get quite a bit of vibration... but then i like that race car feel A sandwich plate kit will be the best way of doing it... you could prob engineer another way but it wouldnt be time or cost effective.
