hi, anyone know if this is the correct rad for a mk2 20vt conversion? I know i need a rado v6 rad but as this is aftermarke i want to make sure it is the right dimensions with the right outlets / inlets etc. Can anyone tell me if this is all correct and a decent brand etc? http://www.adrad.co.uk/prices/prices.php?id=VW328&model=VOLKSWAGEN&make=CORRADO cheers
dimensions and diagram look about right, i can measure mine to check, although that may not be until friday. still havent got your cheque in the post :S
You don't "NEED" a corrado VR6 rad,it will work but options are a plenty. Look at inlet/outlet position and length/hight and compare it to a mk2 16v rad. Too wide can restrict your boost pipes and make you stretch the top & bottom water hoses (trust me on this) get a nice compromise on size for your turbo/use and also remember that the rad can be moved to sit in different positions as they are only pegs in holes on the bottom. Brackets might have to be made to hold the top & the intercooler. Mockup is a must 1st,to get an idea of what goes where.Its very important to do this as even simple looking hoses need to fit "right",the rad should give way if it can aslong as it works fine.
mine is an 8v gti though so i havent actually got a 16v to look at and measure. can you use the 16v rad or do you know of any others that have been tried and tested?
I know of a tried & tested 1.3 mk2 rad on a 20v that includes hard track use. The 16v rad should be the same size as your 8v but "i think" has a twin core (or something like that) 1st job is; Chuck engine in the bay,get some hoses fabbed up or use what you can and that also goes for the intercooler. Use the diamentions of your 8v rad to give you an idea of what you need ( a little larger would not hurt) but get the take measure out then get looking or asking (i could name quite a few,but i need a space to work with IE, mm's) Above all,this will explain both what you need and where its needed.
what intercooler are you going to use? tbh vr6 rad may be a bit overkill, i know its turbo but its not gonna get that hot, the thermal efficiency should far outweigh the old 8v. but i will disagree with using a rad to fit the pipework, make the pipework fit around the rad. tbh its not like theres a shortage of room, i got a vr6 rad in mine and 2.5" boost pipes going past it to the intercooler.
well i was going to use a vr6 rad as its what a few people had suggested and i was told that it would fit straight in the place of the 8v. i have a merc sprinter intercooler as i read and again spoke to people who have used it. thanks
yea i use the vr6 rad and merc intercooler with no probs, you may have to cut about a little bit to get that intercooler to fit but it is possible to keep it hidden behind your bumper. tbh its not like a g60 rad would be too small, those things dont half generate some heat yet that tiny rad is big enough to keep em cool. but anyway the fans your getting will fit the vr6 rad. so get that, and it does fit on your subframe, theres a few sets of holes in the crossmember that will fit all the different sized rads.
i used VR6 rad (about 70-80 from GSF and THS supplied me an intercooler for a good price! all works a treat! -- also fit ECs cool runnning fan switch and stat but then thats prob over kill... but then again it leaves me good for using her as a track toy
does anyone know if i will need to trim anything to fit my merc sprinter intercooler? I didnt think i did but have seen someones build thread on another forum that cut there towing eye off which i dont see as ideal!
can anyone tell me the differences between an AUM and AUQ ecu? I have the AUQ engine and have been offered a AUQ loom and possibly ECU, problem is they are not sure if it is, they are going to check and let me know but it might be an AUM ecu, they have told me it will work ok but is only 150bhp even though its for a ko3s, they have also said it will remap to run fine but i want to check if it will cause me any probs being different?! Will it pick up all AUQ sensors like both lambdas or do AUMs only run one? Please let me know what you think as i might need to give an answer tomorrow cheers guys
As far as i know, (im fairly certain) the AUM and AUQ are the same engine, the only difference is that the AUM is in the Golfs and the AUQ is in audis/seats, the AUM is 150 bhp and AUQ is 180, they both have all the same specs, turbo, injectors etc. sensors will be the same all through the 1.8t range, as long as they all have drive by wire, which teh aum and auq have.
Put the 1.8T rad in if its any good to anyone.Uses the OEM fans and couling. Modded the front panel to take a 1.8T rad mount frame [/IMG] Won't be able to use spotlights room for FMIC at the front
i know i have asked about my 8v fuel tank and pumps etc and i have a mk3 16v ready to fit but would a mk2 16v tank and pumps fit straight onto my 8v and will this be as good as the mk3 16v? I am just thinking about the easiest way to get the correct fuel pressure to a re-mapped AUQ.
right i have just looked back through this and cant see anything about goodridge brake hoses, i have G60 brakes up front (8v gti originally) and custom rear setup. i have the hoses that join the rears like the mk2 - mk4 ones but need the fronts and other rears. Which set do i get? will i just need 8v ones or G60 ones? cheers
when removing my engine, what is the best way? shall i drain everything first? any particular order? including gearbox oil? then as i remove each wire / connector put it leading into a bag and write on it what it is for future reference then undo exhaust, driveshafts etc and just lift it out in one go with gearbox attached? or should i take box off first?
The way I did it was to get the car up on axle stands so you can gain access to as much as possible, support the engine and remove the front bumper, slam panel, radiator etc so you can get "at" the engine, then go through the systems disconnecting things, labelling where you think you need to, put nuts and bolts in bags and label them up, put them all in a box etc then when its ready to lift out, starp it to your crane and undo the mounts. itll take a little persuasion depending on if its been out before but the gorgeous thing about mk2's is they arent complicated, it usually takes only a few seconds of looking to work out how something comes apart even if youve not seen it before. I had my engine out in about three hours and it was my first time doing it to a mk2.
g60 braided hoses will do the job if you still have the same fittings on the rear callipers and 2 flexi pipes either side on the rear, one from the hardline on the car to a small hardline on the rear beam and one from that to the calliper. what is custom about your rear set up? drain fluids first. then as ian says; remove all the stuff at the front of the car, you get easy access plus then you have the room to pull the engine out of the front. you may have to remove the bonnet too for crane access depending on the chains etc you can use to lift the engine. take the engine n gearbox out as one with the manifolds on after disconnecting the exhaust and driveshafts, wiring, coolant pipes etc. its easier to swap the gearbox to the new engine and sort your clutch etc with it all out. so your starting the swap now are you? hows the engine? you changed all the consumables etc? i never changed the water pump on it as i mentioned before.
