Hey everyone, got a wee problem with my 20vt in my mk2 golf on standard management. I had the car running for about a month or two, and all was running sweet. Till last Saturday the car had developed a misfire, I plugged it into diagnostics and it came up with cyl 1 open circuit, cyl 2 open circuit and a couple of other problems. I cleared the codes and set off and limped it home off boost and it was fine till I got home and it started running really bad. I then left it till the morning and I tried to start it, it cranks and cranks but will not start, so I have checked for: Spark: Nothing on any cylinder Fuel: Nothing (Pump doesn't prime) Checked the grounds from the battery and the one to the chassis had corroded away so repaired that. I have 12v at the fuseboard I have 12v at the ecu I have changed the: Crank sensor, fuel pump relay, ignition switch. Tried a different fuel pump and nothing. It also won't connect to vag com anymore Then I split the ecu down to the board to check for obvious damage, and warmed the board with a heat gun to rid it of any moisture. But the heat flagged up an old repair to two legs of the chip. So I took it to the girlfriends dads who is a tv technician and he cleaned up the legs and said they were fine. Then the girlfirend spotted a slice in the loom where the tape had seperated. So she set about taking the tape off and about 4 cables had slices in them near the ecu plugs, so she went down the loom another 12" and there was nothing else apparent. Am I right in thinking the ECU is fried? Thanks all, Alex. EDIT: It's an AYP from a Seat Ibiza Cupra 52 plate
Nope I haven't actually, I'll go look at the Fusebox FAQ now. Yeah I am running it from the CE2 board.
"It also won't connect to vag com anymore" This normally means the ECU is getting no power. (Unless its fried) Do you have the relay in the engine bay like the MK4 or is it in the CE2 fusebox? From reading problems with mine lately, these relays go alot!
The ecu is definitely getting power at the plugs, while the car was being jump started it had 13v at a few of the large pins (Sorry to be vague as I couldn't find a pinout for the plugs) The relays are in the car, and from what I've read it is third from the left, top row. It's as though the ecu is asleep and need an ignition live to kick it up the **** to make it work.
Yes, That is how it works from standard. "third from the left, top row." Thats correct. It should be a 30 or 32 i think. Check it out
Misfire i'd put down to a coilpack,fuel pump not priming is an obvious problem though,diagnostics not working is another avenue that needs looking at. You need fuel & spark for starters but i'd look into the earths just to cover all bases to begin with then rule them out,get the diagnost's working & clear the codes again. Work from there or you might not get much further.These systems do funny things when everything is not working in sync so you have to start with the basics.
Cheers matt Will have a go on Friday, downfalls of working away during a week, gives me time to buy one though! haha
The thing is that it all went all together, and personally I can't see all them going at once. I dunno I've checked all the basics that I can think of. Including the earths. So now I'm at a stand still really, till this relay arrives lol.
Have you checked the wiring from ECU to crank position sensor? Not sure if this is part of the wiring that is covered in tape and spliced but if this is not correct, that would explain pump not priming and no spark. Had something similar recently but we had wired the sensor the wrong way round. ECU did not know where engine was in relation to TDC so stops fuel and spark. Changed the wiring and ECU got correct signal from crank pos sensor, then allows spark and fuel.
That will be the next job if a new ecu relay and ecu fails. If all this fails then I'm thinking about going standalone....may be cheaper in the end.
