88 GTI 8v first start after 10 years any advice welcome

Can’t ****ing believe it. It lives again…..
It’s only ****dy started

thanks guys for listening to my demented ramblings

So just when I was about to give up and have my local mechanic come tow away and fix for a three figure sum no doubt…..it started and re started.
However engine doesn’t sound as sweet as before but don’t think it’s missing on a cylinder.

So here’s what just happened
RJ cleverly spotted an ancient alarm bodge on coil. So as Jonny suggested I pulled off the brown wire alarm feeder connection and plugged the two black wires into the + on coil. Then I took dizzy cap off and sanded the rotor arm and four lead ends and re attached.
Went for the start and after a small hesitation she fired up. A bit tappety but alive
But as they say in Aus I’m ****dy stoked mate
Won’t tell you the Irish version but suffice to say it’s turned out a great day.
So after two long days the matrix is finally done and waiting for the two replacement hoses to see if heat is back on at last. Will post pic of cracked matrix as an inspiration to all procrastinators out there like me…..get it done!
Must say it’s great to be able to share the joys and dispair which comes with classic cars with like minded souls who’ve all been there.
Thanks all again

next it’s the central locking compressor getting a look at
R

 

It’s only bloody started mate!!!!!!

 

Result!
God the torment these things can put us through...

 

Well done and we’ll done RJ

 

Indeed well done RJ
At the risk of appearing ungrateful I am delighted it’s running again but something sounds a bit off.
The usual tappety start normally goes away after a few revs as oil circulates but seems to be persisting?
Ticking over at about 800 but sounds a little lumpy.
Won’t drive on road until new matrix hoses fitted.
I suspect that somehow removing,cleaning and replacing dizzy cap may have knocked timing off a bit. I believe small rotation of dizzy cap can affect timing.
Is there an idiot’s guide for adjusting timing on the 8v digi gti.
However all good considering recent struggles
R

 

Just to check
Can timing in the 8v be fine tuned by rotating the distributor slightly clockwise or anticlockwise.?

 

Thanks John
Fair point it could have been the old alarm or just cleaning the dizzy cap but it’s a worry to think that that’s all it can take to stop engine starting. Anyway it’s going really well today since I fitted the new matrix hoses and scraped the recall valve.
Thinking I don’t actually need to touch the timing. Had a short motorway drive and brought speed to 70 and there was still a willingness to pull well above so she may be 35 but can hold her own with modern cars.
Having heat is a real treat after so long without but to be fair changing the matrix and repairing the blender doors is a real pain but definitely worth doing….I put it off for too long….but now it’s done
Just a quick question
I have serviced engine including timing belt and it pulls well in all gears but I’m wary of over reving anywhere near red line due to cars age and time invested. My fear is over stressing something. Am I worrying unnecessarily and should I just drive it like I did in the nineties.
Thanks again for all the advice and support

thanks also for the timing link

 

Cane it, that's what they were built for, you are doing the GTI a great injustice by not driving it on.

You don't have to reach warp factor 10 but > 70 mph is absolutely no issue for cars like that and to keep them at the top of their game, they need to be driven on.

Edit: Actually I'm pretty sure this has already come up previously on this thread and I'm also pretty sure that I (and a few others) told you to give it the beans.

 

Cheers all
Feel a bit more confident in hitting higher revs now.
So one thing I’ve overlooked is the gearbox oil….I doubt it’s ever been changed. I’ve had the car since 92 and I’ve never thought of changing it.
Now that I’ve done the linkage bushes the shift is nice and precise but mechanic friend suggested it might be wise to Renew the oil so that’s next job.
Meanwhile I’ve noticed the insulation on lead to the knock sensor has virtually crumbled away so I’ve ordered a new one. Not sure how important a KS to smooth running…thoughts appreciated

 

I would definately check that gear box oil When I did mine it was virtually empty.

 

Gear change was a slightly ‘notchy’ changed oil (VW) and gear change much improved

 

Any thoughts or advice on the knock sensor?

Meanwhile I’ve noticed the insulation on lead to the knock sensor has virtually crumbled away so I’ve ordered a new one. Not sure how important a KS to smooth running…thoughts appreciated

 

When I bought my car it had no knock sensor fitted the car ran fine I fitted a new one as I figured it was there for a purpose. I understand it adjusts the timing if the engine is under load by being in too high a gear and the engine is knocking.

 

Got one ordered so will fit it. Just don’t know if I’ll notice any difference in how engine runs. Current knock sensor is probably original and all insulation has crumbled off the lead. Maybe despite this it’s still working as it should but you see something that’s looks dodgy so you change it. I’ll report back if it’s been worthwhile replacing.

 

So this is what 35 year old gearbox oil looks like. So it seems there was little or no loss of oil over the years. Managed to get 1.75l of fresh fully synthetic oil in. To be honest I can’t detect any noticeable difference in gear changes. Shifting was vastly improved by earlier replacement of linkage bushes but I’m sure the gearbox will benefit from having fresh oil after 35 years and 128k.
Forgot to use some ptfe tape on refitting the bungs however nothing like that seems to have been used by the factory.

 

Reckon it’s full now!

 

Fitted the new knock sensor and to be honest I can’t say I’ve noticed any improvement. Car was running and pulling strongly with old 35 year old original vw sensor. All the outer lead insulation had fallen off and the black sensor surround was cracked but it must still have been working (although didn’t try running car without it connected.)
Bit of a waste of time perhaps but maybe someone can let me know if there’s a hidden benefit in fitting this new knock sensor.

 

It's worth changing anything that's past it's best - that has always been my philosophy. The knock sensor really only comes into play if general running has taken a nose-dive (mixture/timing out of whack) which then informs the ECU.

I tried this as a possible fix to my running issues as much like your own it didn't look healthy but I may as well have used a piece of chewing gum - bugger all difference.