I've done a Badger 5 throttle body conversion myself. Very similar to the Omex kit you see in Demon tweeks catalogue. Bill supplies DTA ecu and his throttle bodies (Jenvey) use the standard VW throttle cable. It's not a difficult conversion at all provided you get all the bits and dont try and cut corners. The ready made loom isn't cheap but looms aren't that easy to make so well worth the money. It's certainly more than a weekends work especially if you want a nice job done.
Cant remember exactly but it is plenty more than the Omex one. Best give Bill a ring, he can give you all the advise you need. One thing to watch out for is economy. People will map them for maximum power etc but dont seem too bothered about economy while driving normally. you should get just as good mpg as you would as standard. I think thats pretty important nowadays Mine used to throw nice flames out the back when giving it death.
switchable maps would be a nice addition to the ecu, it may cost a few quid, but it means you can have an economy setting and a power setting! saving you MPG and money in the long term
yeh the two map ideas would be great if money allows. i will be rebuilding the engine from the ground up so whats would be the best crank, bearings, pistons, rods, head mods i should be going for? thanks again
out of interest instead of using an 8v shell to build 16v out of why dont you take the easier, cheaper option of buying a mk3 16v and working from there? and before some one say's an abf will only cost 150-200quid etc remember 3-400 will buy you a good complete valver in need of a re built lump (as is the intention with the 8v), you can take the engine out and rebuild it at you're leasure without the worry of getting to work then when its all running right you can sell you're 8v on to cover some of the costs. the other benefits include cheaper insurance, probably a heigher speck base car and less trouble trying to source parts later as you don't have a hybrid to contend with. just a thought...
if you want to go as far as swapping cranks, pistons etc check out some of the hotgolf works of art that are on here. 2.1 diesel cranked high comp beasties chucking out 210bhp ish!
thanks for everyones advice and skint_golfer am starting with an abf 16v straight out of a mk3 as a starting engine and going from there, how much bhp would the standard engine with big valve work handle sensibly as a daily with itbs? because if i get a mint 16v engine i dont really want to tear it apart when i can just put a big valved head and itbs on it for a sensible power output until further notice when i can pile some money into it
it would have to a feckin serious 16v engine to need big valves. the money would be better spent on other things before visiting the big valve shop.
no, what I ment was you currently drive a 2L 8V mk3 so why bust your balls building a car you can just buy! the mk3 16v gti comes complete with abf, better trim, bigger brakes etc etc will be cheaper for you to insure to than the car you intend to build (abf into an 8v shell) because as far as an insurance company is concerned it would be a less modified car even if you did the same things to both (hope that made sence). eg a 200bhp abf powered 8v gti shell might cos 500quid to insure where as a 200bhp abf powered 16v gti shell would be 400quid - less mods for same power. buy a complete second car work on as and when you please then when it's finished sell you're 8v gti to cover costs. If nothing else it'll be easier as you know you have all the bits in one place to make it run so you don't need to go hunting for things you may have buggered up.
thanks for the advice but am just getting my car sorted to how i like it and would rather drop the engine into it tbh. which gearboxes coudl i use with the 16v becuase i think my 8v is on its way out?
o2a probably your best choice along with clutch and fly. although isn't the 8v gti rod change and the 16v hydrolic/cable or something? vague memories from my last visit to dubshack. just a thought
