It would have been in there on the original harness,if it got chopped.out take the tape off and dig further up look for a cut blue/white wire and brown those are what you need for dash sensor. Then either source a 4 pin plug to suit or change to a MK2 black 2 pin dash temp sensor
Today started with trouble shooting my DBW throttle pedal issue. While I had the dash lower panels off I thought I would try and see why my blower wasn’t working, it turns out I don’t know what I’m doing when it comes to checking wires so I’m in need of some help. What I was trying was the black(ground) lead to the brown pin and the red lead to each of the of the other pins, one at a time, while adjusting the fan speed on the switch but no luck getting anything on my multi meter. I changed the fuse and go the same result. Since I decide I was out of my depth with the wiring I moved on to mounting the mic for my stereo and hiding the wire properly, then I put my dash back together. Next I needed to replace my rear exhaust hangar rubber as my old one disappeared. Then I wired my side indicators since the MOT man kelts telling me I need them even though my car was built in 1984 Then I went for a drive around town just to enjoy my car, though I keep expecting to get pulled over since I still have to drive on my American plates until the DVLA decides if I get the original rev number back or if their gonna give me a new reg number. I also installed my re-webbed seat belts
with the blower, start at the black/red wire to the switch this is the switched live from the fusebox. if its dead then follow the wire looking for damage, if your windscreen wipers work you know the x-relif relay which supplies the blower as well as wiper relay is ok
the wipers work, though they are a bit slow and the washer pump is going. I'll take the dash apart soon and report my findings. Just to make sure I'm doing the right thing, I'm checking for voltage right?
Yup 12v ignition on. Maybe check main fusebox earth while there, look for a borwn coming out of the white fusebox plug, this should.go into a white 4 way earth block on the main battery earth which comes in with headlight loom. This should also have a wire in from the dash loom and one from the rear. Out the back of this white block is another brown which should go to the claw above the fusebox
Ok, next step is loop a chunky wire from the black/red to each of the other wires on plug see if the fan runs. If it does then switch is bad, if not wiring or blower fault
So it turns out, the ground behind the bezel wasn’t connected the blower motor works now and no squealing either. Thanks for the help though
So I’ve taken the tape off to try and figure out what wires are going to the blue temp sensor. I have a brown/white and purple. I can’t seem to find a blue/white wire anywhere in the 6 inches of harness I’ve untapped.
go right back to the big round plug its fed from pin 4 on there and the brown/white is just tapped in with a load of earths that go to the engine block. its probably the 2 wires you have found but best to double check
So I finally got the v5 back from the dvla in my friends name who had it shipped for me. So I put the v5 back in my name but since it was imported as tax exempt I can tax it online or at the post office. I called the dvla and was told I need to send the v5 in with a v10 and a postal order for the amount to tax my car. So, while I’m waiting for for the funds to tax my mk2 I decided it was time to build my new headlights. The first thing I needed was headlight buckets to fit projectors. I was talking to Sam on here to have some designed and 3d printed but he’s been pretty busy. A friend of mine in the states was able to help me out, so I sent him a set of mk2 headlights, the clear glass, mounting rings and projector so he could design and 3d print what I needed. here is what he made me. Each bucket took 23 hours to print. The projectors I went with are mini H1 projectors from retro refit lab. The mounting kit is Land Rover defender headlight mount kit. These do require the core support to be cut to allow the mount kit to fit and I used some nutserts to mount them. first up was to mount the projectors to the new buckets then I wires up the LEDs and made sure everything worked next was seal the glass and the back side of the headlights. Then I took the old headlights out and modified the core support Next was the fine adjustments to make sure the lights were centered with the grill on I painted all the fresh cuts then assembled everything. I put the core support back in the car plugged it all in and then adjusted the levels so that I wouldn’t blind everyone. I’m very happy with how these turned out. My only problem is the high beam shutters will open when you pull the stalk but if click the stalk all the way I lose power completely.
Just saying…. The other thing is, that while you may be able to see well, you will be blinding everyone who comes towards you. Aftermarket LEDs are illegal in the UK and you will be lucky if they pass an MOT.
I didn’t even notice it looked like Walle. I know that after market LEDs are illegal and that I’ll have to put stock headlights back in for MOT but I wanted a brighter headlight and I wanted something that won’t blind all the northern drivers. I have tried an updated loom and it just wasn’t bright enough for me. With these I can adjust them as needed to ensure the cutoff of the beam isn’t blinding everyone
Have they a proper, sharp cutoff? I If so, they shouldn't blind anyone. I was tempted to do the same, but my GTI with stock Hella lamps, Nightbreaker bulbs and my own uprated loom has excellent light, better than my mates Golf R...
Yeah, the cutoff is nice and sharp. I’ll try and take a few more against a wall or garage later. My mk6 gtd has bi-Xeon headlights and has spoiled me quite a bit. Going between the two cars a shocking but that should change now
So I’ve been having issues with gear selection and the 02A set up I have leaves much to be desired when it come to gear changes. I’ve been looking for the required part to do the 02J shift swap and I’ve finally got all the parts…at least I think I do. I’ve got the shifter, cables and cable bracket from a 2000 Seat Ibiza cupra and the shift tower from an early 2000’s beatle. I plan on tapping the shifter so it will accept my golf ball gear nob. Is there anything else that I’m missing or anything else I should replace before fitting it all? I’d like to wait until it’s a bit warmer but I don’t think I’ll be able to put it off too much longer.
Clips, did you get them? For the cable to shifter. Had to grind the top of the stick slightly then tap it to m12, but it was in the car, you could chop it slightly and weld a bit of threaded rod/chopped wheel bolt on the top while not fitted. Not sure how you're mounting the mechanism, I used a mk4 type which has a different bolt set up, I've modded a later A3 one for mate by removing studs and fitted 3 nutserts so can bolt it up with m8s and spacers, had to chop stick hole out at front left to clear the reverse spring on my mk2. Hope that makes a bit of sense.
my cables don’t have any clips, they look like they press onto the shift tower. I have seen different cable ends at the scrap yard they I could pick up if there better. a friend of mine has a tap and die set, so we’ll tap it before it goes in. I’m not sure on how I’m gonna mount it but I do like the nutsert idea.
I'll get some pics of the gearchange with nutserts,it's still in the garage, Totally forgot the push on type of end, like a ball and socket. When read ibiza I must have thought was the 6l like polo 9n with clips, not the 6k2 type, sorry.
That's the tt type shift on box that has clip type fittings. Slight squaring to hole for reverse spring clearance, that was a mk4 change. Later (mk5 golf era I think) A3 mechanism with nutserts fitted, fronts in original pin position, rear was just drilled in convenient spot. Top threaded for anniversary knob.