Aaaaagh..... (Updated)

Discussion in 'Engines' started by TheSecondComing, Oct 31, 2003.

  1. TheSecondComing Forum Addict

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    It's a digi, PB block - turned out to be a duff (broken wire inside)hall sender. Replaced the dizzy with a second hand one and it runs (Badly, but I haven't set up the mixture/timing yet!)
    Golden, as one who knows all, are dizzy's meant to be able to be taken apart? I bought a brand new hall sender - the manual suggested that by taking off a spring clip the trigger wheel could be removed to give access to the hall sender. Mine had no spring clip, and the trigger wheel seemed to be welded/firmly pressed on to the shaft. No amount of brute force would move it, so I destroyed it in rage. Maybe the manual was talking about an earlier model of Dizzy? Either way, I hope it runs properly once I set it up tomorrow, otherwise I'll be on here with more exciting, perplexing problems for you all to solve........
    Had the engine steam cleaned today as well - best 7 I ever spent on the car. Nice to work on clean, shiny bits instead of oily ones...... I love having a VW again......
     
  2. smithy Forum Member

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    LOL, always the best way! I've been good recently though, I usually flip out and wreck something when I loose my patience, but havent done for a while. I think the last thing I did was destroy a perfectly good p/s front wing when I was trying to get something which was old and seized off my GTi spares car.
     
  3. TheSecondComing Forum Addict

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    Oh! Another problem, while I'm harassing you....... the manual says idle speed should be about 750-900rpm. Mine is about 500rpm, and obviously lumpy. Do I need to get this up to 750rm or so by adjusting the idle air bypass and/or idle mixture allen screw before I set the ignition timing? Or is setting the timing ( at 2000rpm or so after disconnecting the blue plug and revving it several times ) likely to bring up the idle speed to a decent level?
    And to think I used to know all this stuff........ [:o)]
     
  4. smithy Forum Member

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    Advancing the timing increases the idle speed. I would adjust the timing correctly before setting it using the idle screw. You'll probably find it will sort it out if it was fine before you replaced the dizzy ;)
     
  5. Tuff Schmitt Forum Junkie

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    Parz, quite seriously - you've got to give up the little round fellas.

    You've lost your memory! :p
     
  6. TheSecondComing Forum Addict

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    Aye, I thought the timing might be the problem. At the minute it is just set at TDC (cylinder 1, stationary). I'll have a fiddle tomorrow. And Nick - yes, I am losing my memory!
    Any input from the Golden one? [:^(]
     
  7. pigbladder Forum Addict

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    where did you buy the hall sender? how much [:s]
     
  8. TheSecondComing Forum Addict

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    At GSF - 27-ish. If you want it, it's yours for free. Saves me driving back down there......Just check it'll fit your dizzy first!
    Edited by: TheSecondComing
     
  9. pigbladder Forum Addict

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    im after one from a digi distributer if thats what you have?
    let me know.. ;)
     
  10. TheSecondComing Forum Addict

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    Yup, 1990 digi 8v etc.... drop me an email (in my profile) with your address and I'll stick it in the post. Like I said though, take your dizzy cap and rotor arm off first and make sure you will be able to remove the trigger wheel - otherwise it'll be useless to you!
     
  11. TheSecondComing Forum Addict

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    Oh aye - numbers on the box are :

    8.2719 Pick-up coil
    volkswagen 034 998 065;
    Audi, seat volksagen

    GSF part number seems to be 92380 judging by the sticker on the box.

    No real part numbers on the hall sender itself, apart from some very small lettering on the actual magnetic pickup which read:

    2av53
    7392

    Hope that helps....
     
  12. Golden Forum Junkie

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    Hello me again.

    Ok, the distributor should come apart. You take the circlip of and prize the interupter plate up, it only slides on and is located by a roll pin that slides down the side.

    Timing, should be between 5 and 7 degress BTDC at 2k rpm. The management unit needs to be put in adjustment mode by dissconecting the blue temp sender (NTC2) and then reving the engine 3 times above 3k rpm. Make adjustments (timing first, then CO then idle), reconect the temp sender and rev another 3 times over 3k to set the ECU.

    Hope that helps before the Roman soldiers get you again.......
     
  13. pigbladder Forum Addict

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    golden ...is that rev to 3k 3 times and ajust at idle?
     
  14. Golden Forum Junkie

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    The CO and idle are obviously done at idle but the timing is done at 2k rpm, but all must be done while the ECU is in adjustment mode as above.
     
  15. TheSecondComing Forum Addict

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    Bugger. Running badly. No low-down (or high-up!)power at all, even after I set the timing and mixture according to the book. Any more ideas, gents? It also sounds like a tractor, even though it has a complete new exhaust system. At the minute it has all the power of a 1.3 golf...... ruled out a headgasket leak as all the oil and water is staying where it is meant to be!
     
  16. pigbladder Forum Addict

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    timing belt sliped a tooth..compression test

    sounds like its time to burn it [xx(]
     
  17. pigbladder Forum Addict

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    does it idle/start normal?
     
  18. TheSecondComing Forum Addict

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    It idle's reasonably,though still sounds like a tractor. Doesn't start as readily as it should......? But it does start. You reckon it could be the timing belt?
     
  19. TheSecondComing Forum Addict

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    And I've lost my compression tester...... [:o)]
     
  20. pigbladder Forum Addict

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    so by sounds like a tractor do you mean...loud tappety /rattley engine ,lumpy idle or noisey exhaust?

    and it happened all of a sudden? ..its not a sh*tty loose earth on the engine ? bound to be something daft
     

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