ABF Tensioner - can someone knowledgeable cast eye (dodgy tensioner?)

Discussion in '16-valve' started by MJA, Jan 11, 2022.

  1. MJA

    MJA Paid Member Paid Member

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    Hi,
    I've cast some doubt on how I've got my tensioner set up after looking at someone's build thread and seeing their tensioner.

    This is mine below and my concerns are
    -when I press the belt the tensioner does not move as per the instructions on the guide below
    -the belt was less tensioned (arguably loose in inexperienced eyes) than when I left it on checking today yet the tensioner looks like it is lined up correctly.

    I haven't really used the car only let idle and quick spin around my village. A belt did squeek on start up but assumed it was one of the aux belts.

    My method of setting tension was to rotate to the stop, let pressure off (whilst holding the tension tool) and tightening down to 25NM. I guess this is where i may have gone wrong as the instructions seem to say the tensioner should settle at the markings under its own tension but if I let go of the tool the tensioner just springs back way past the markings to a loose state- is that dodgy tensioner?

    [​IMG]

    and i used the ABF guide here to do it https://www.clubgti.com/forums/index.php?threads/abf-cambelt-and-tensioner.279210/

    Thanks
    Matt
     
    Last edited: Jan 11, 2022
  2. MJA

    MJA Paid Member Paid Member

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    It must be ok - i've done the same as the chap in this video and he also used the tool whilst setting the tension. I pushed my tensioner to the stop and eased it back clockwise to the markings.



    Not sure why my belt seemed loose perhaps it was just me over thinking it.

    I've reset the tension anyway and rotated engine by hand and the tensioner moves just like in the video.
     
    Last edited: Jan 11, 2022
  3. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    yes thats correct, rotate to stop, back off then nip
     
  4. MJA

    MJA Paid Member Paid Member

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    Cheers rubjonny. It's right that the tensioner should move about a little as you rotate the engine by hand as well isn't it? I keep checking flywheel and top pulley timing marks and we are good.

    I'll fire it up today.
     
  5. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    Yeah the marker will wobble about if you wind it round, plus after engine switch off it can kick back a little. Main thing is the marker lines up while.engine is running :)
     
  6. MJA

    MJA Paid Member Paid Member

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    Just coming back to this. I didn't try and start it as ran out of time - last weekend I went up to the Peak District and popped in to get some parts off of @dodgy - thoroughly nice couple of hours chatting :)

    Back to this cambelt stuff... I am happy with the tensioner now, thanks @rubjonny, but I am not convinced this car is set up timing wise correctly. It has been bugging me as the idle was high when I got it (1200 when warm) and I thought it would also be a good a learning exercise to check. I found the guide on here about setting up the engine from static (NigeP guide).

    I didn't do the cambelt on this car, a mobile chap that helps me with some welding and also used to work as a mechanic did the job. I wasn't convinced he'd done it right as the tensioner did not look right to me hence this thread. He talked me through the job when he did it and I saw he used the timing mark on the top pulley, he couldn't see one on the bottom crank (timing belt side) but marked it all up with tipex. New belt went on the same as the old belt. No attention was paid to the flywheel marking.

    I haven't gone deep like NigeP's guide and taken the cam cover off but have found the flywheel mark (I believe this is the master reference point?).

    [​IMG]

    The top pulley is at this point - looks to be half a tooth out right?

    [​IMG]

    I did stick the dipstick in cylinder one but it is hard to tell for sure.

    When I rotate the engine so the top pulley lines up

    [​IMG]

    the flywheel marker is like this - ignore than white dot, it's not the white mark i put on the marking. It looks like the top of a flywheel bolt.

    [​IMG]

    Keen to learn more. The engine is rotating freely on a 1/2 ratchet - I can feel when it gets to top centre (looser feeling/less resistance on rotating assume that is normal). At this stage I think my top pulley needs rotating a tooth to line this back up - loosen tensioner, take belt off top pulley, rotate and put belt back on?
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 24, 2022
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  7. dodgy

    dodgy Paid Member Paid Member

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    Good to meet you @MJA , blooming cold though, and it's got worse this week.
    I'll message you in a mo, I found those washer things for the wishbones, I'll get them in the post.
     
  8. MJA

    MJA Paid Member Paid Member

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    Very kind aye it was cold once I get chatting I dont stop...! My missus did a mock exam for her course whislt waiting and since chatting about the remap on your Leon I've booked my Exeo in for a Revo 1 stage 1 at its next service next month [:D]

    Ive started painting the wishbones this weekend but must admit got side tracked with the mk2. Ive studied the guides on here a bit more tonight and its all starting to make sense.
     
  9. dodgy

    dodgy Paid Member Paid Member

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    Excellent news on the remap, sure you will get more mpg too, have done on all I've had done.
    Managed to finish the table and wheels, but had the 3kw heater on!
    Very patient lady mrs mja, and made use of the time well in a warm car, brilliant.
    Bits just needed a link of paint and they'll be good for a long time.
     
  10. MJA

    MJA Paid Member Paid Member

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    Oh yes just a bit of paint. I've stripped the calipers off the car and pistons etc etc and am painting them too. Very satisfying.
     
    dodgy likes this.
  11. MJA

    MJA Paid Member Paid Member

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    ok I now realise from reading rubjonnys thread it's the small punch mark and not the part coloured in red (I was using that on my observations).

    I need remove the green plastic bung thing to see clearly. Easier said than done mind.

    I don't currently understand why there are two marks - assume the red coloured mark is TDC and the punch is for timing - I'll keeping reading but if anyone can put me out of misery that would be good. If that is the case then my top cam pulley is in alignment.

    I'm learning here and not adjusting anything on my car.
     

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  12. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    punch is for TDC yes, the diamond is for doing the ignition timing which you can ignore with an ABF ecu as it sorts itself out and timing not adjustible
     
  13. MJA

    MJA Paid Member Paid Member

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    Thanks! The fog has lifted on this now I get it - I read the diagram in the Haynes manual about ignition timing.

    This is an ABF block and head under the KR 16v management. I fired it up and she's running smooth as yesterday. All my previous cars have been ECU controlled so never thought about this before.

    Vid of it running, tensioner on the last half. I need a new boot for the top of the airbox.

     
  14. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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