It goes like this, for me for an ABF: 150-165 = 500ish (chip, filter etc) 165-180 = another 1000 on top (head work + map) 180-190 = another 1000 (cams, valve gear + map) 190-200+ = another 2000 (ITBs and standalone) Another 20 BHP on top = another 2000 (stronger bottom end, more revs) Another 20 BHP on top again = another 2000 (high CR stronger bottom end, more revs again) ....and so it goes. Of course it's possible to do it cheaper if you have the means and the knowledge...but for those that don't, they shouldn't be under any illusion that it's going to start getting expensive.
240+ BHP 2.1L 16v NASP with Nitrous oxide injection that's what i have done for my friend and he's running 11 sec 1/4 mile in FWD Rocco. i've been running 170bhp 2.0L 16v ABF with 100bhp of Nitrous for years now.
If you go and buy a 260-280hp 2L crate engine from a top end tuning shop (SBD/Judd/Mountune etc), cost will be 8-10K so this is entirely in the ballpark of your figs above
My 2.1L 16V has cost alot already and not finished. 600 Pistons 400 H beam rods 800 Crank 400 Head 300 Cams 200 Original VW Bearings 300 ARP Studs 150 Sump 100 Bore & Hone 3250 total then there's the Injection and management. 2k and thats to start with if you do it yourself
That's cheating. (tell me more?) How often do you use the gas? 100BHP jets...no problems? I did look into it...I must admit.
Not cheating (Technology) 170 BHP 150LB is nice in the MK1 for Road use and the Nitrous is for the Weekend on the 1/4 strip, mine is Direct port 150bhp progressive system (Programmable Power). So is my Friend Paul Bargate's Rocco 2.1L 16v same set - up as mine .
Cool Thread! the 200hp can be broken by upping the fuel pressure to around 5 bar (stock injectors) and upping the compression. the inlet will probably let you down first as the standard ABF one isn't great for distribution. I've never been able to match the low end torque of a stock inlet with my throttle bodies. keep up the good work
motorsport world... cheeeap Manufacturer : Kent Cams Category : Kent Cams - VW Sub-category : 1.8/2.0 16V Golf Application : Cams - Sports Injection - Ex Product Code: KC-GF1602R-Ex Details : Price per pair of cams. For engines with hydraulic followers. Estimated Power Gain = 17 Bhp Powerband = 2000/6500rpm. Valve Lift (Inlet/Exhaust) = 10.94mm/10.26mm Duration (Inlet/Exhaust) = 264/258 Degrees Timing (Inlet Open/Close)/(Exhaust Open/Close) = 22/62 59/19 Full Lift (Inlet/Exhaust) = 110/110 Degrees Valve Clearance = 0.00mm Price: 223.96 inc VAT Delivery: 12.00
noooo i only want the intake one anway. fancy going halves on it? the exhaust cam would have to be converted to become an intake cam and its a cheap mod
I looked at those cams matt. That price is for exchange though, as they are reprofiled cams, so you would have to give them your ABF cams. You can get a new catcam intake for 200 They are high lift, short duration which work well on cars with MAP sensors. I was about to order an intake cam when i chickened out... thought a new cam would get worn quickly by 120k standard followers... might as well wait untill i do the whole valve train / flowed head Motorsport world are well good... got all my suspension stuff from them
That looks nice and neat! Would it be (relatively) simple to use a 20v fuel rail with the bottom half of a KR manifold and some bike bodies for example? (with megasquirt etc. obviously)
Very interesting reading. Was the exhaust manifold a good modification over standard? Im looking into ordering a performance exhaust manifold, trouble is they dont seem to exist for the mk3 16v!
Hi I am not beinng critical at all but having sold my Porsche 951 (944 Turbo) and have a trackday Mk 1 project on the go I must admit I am surprised at friction losses (drag etc) of well over 25% in some cases on the dyno sheets. 15 - 20% has been the norm in most cars I`ve built and driven (admittedly rear wheel drive) so have to assume front wheel cars are less efficient gearbox/friction/drag wise??
I can't put any numbers on the exhaust manifold as it was done at the same time as the headwork and inlet manifold match-porting. Certainly Bill Blydenstein thought that the standard exhaust manifold opened up would be good for 220 BHP...and I can't see me getting to the point that it becomes a restriction. If there is nothing wrong with standard, I didn't see the point in changing it.
Drag will always differ dyno to dyno, so it's open to interpretation...all I can say is that on the same dyno the car made 150ish BHP standard, corrected, etc. But, I noticed increases in drag when adding more negative camber, Quaife, wider tyres, toe out, softer front tyres etc... (Quaife, 3.94, -1.7 degrees and 2 mins toe out per side on mine).
fuel rails from rover K enignes fit as well. thats my pikey ITB setup, choped and welded 50mm Kr lower manifold with gsxr 1000 bodies, not all the runners are straight but it'll do for a prototype ) it been on and off the car a few times now. with my uber easy to install and uninstall squirt
@ess three: i did't want to open a new topic regarding ABF tuning, it's pretty clear what has to be done to get something out ouf this engine. so my question is what did you exactly do to your airbox, how did you modify it, and what did you do to your exhaust? do you have pics of it? so far i have a k&n panel in the standard box, a modified TB and a 4-2-1 aftermarket manifold ("hartmann", I don't know if you've heared of it, it's a german tuning company), but i want to reinstall the original manifold... and i have no cat for now... the rest is standard regards,josip
