Hello, I have an ACD 020 box (Golf GTI 8V PF engine ’89) waiting to be replaced by an AUX box (because it was closest I could find the original). Apparently the ACD box has some kind of pinion failure because the ride is very bumpy on all gears with ”surface” throttle or when I lift and press the throttle, it has this kind of pulling slack in it. The first photo is the right side, second the left side. The right side with the green area does not look as it’s supposed to, is that the pinion failure? The other question is: what should I check from the replacement AUX box that I can confirm that it’s in reasonable condition? Should I do some maintenance before I do the swap, i.e. change the transmission oil in it? Best, Jussi
on the new box give the flanges a good wiggle and rotate both ways to check for play/lash. drain the oil out to check for metal filings, pull the pushrod out to check its straight and correct length. if it wont come out the ends have been mushroomed out due to incorrect cable adjustment, to remove it cut one end off so you can pull it out the other way for repalcement
Pics don't look bad tbh, but you could still have diff bearing wear/failure. You can't see the pinion from outside as it's tucked inside the box so whoever told you that is a munchkin
Thank you for the answers! With AUX box I "obviously" meant AUG box.. Would you have any good proven link to a gearbox removal guide? What is preferred to be removed before the removal of the gearbox itself? Can it be done by myself with the help of a floor jack or do I need extra hands? I'm putting the car on axle stands.
theres a thread for that https://www.clubgti.com/forums/index.php?threads/getting-a-mk2-gearbox-out-in-2-hours.133989/
For more access you can remove the whole front end from a MK2, radiator will need draining obv to remove but I find its so much easier that way. if its got pas just unbolt pump/brackets from engine and slide them over to the side out of the way may find you get enough wiggle room without splitting ball joints or track rod ends on one side at least, can pull the engine forwards a little bit then as you fit the box guide the cv joints back onto the flanges. I don't bother removing the brake calipers either, if you leave them on you can use a screwdriver in the disc vents to hold it still while you crack loose the CV joint bolts. be sure to clean all the crud out of the bolt heads and make sure your spline tool is fully tapped home before attempting to undo. can see how much room you get with front off, I cant recall 100% if I split anything off the bearing carriers to do it though helpfully. I think, possibly, maybe what I did was dropped passenger shaft down out the way then fitted the box up, lined up driver shaft and threaded bolt in to hold it. Then fitted front engine carrier, front and gearbox brackets and finally jacked up passenger side to split the hub and/or track rod off to allow passenger shaft to be slotted into flange before finally bolting both CVs on fully
Thanks for the help, that was exactly the topic I was looking for! Pretty sure I am going to make it finally with this good instructions! Btw is there going to be some fluids coming out when I remove the gearbox from engine/clutch? What spare parts do I need for the job, in other words is there some parts that are good to replace meanwhile and have as backup? I'm making this at the countryside so I won't have easy access to spare parts/special tools. Have a nice weekend! Best, Jussi
you shouldn't get any oil leakage unless you tip it over too far, then it'll come out the speedo hole. if the diff cup seals have been damaged you may get some leakage after the shafts are removed. certainly shouldnt see any out the bell housing, some minor weapage from the seals if they're shot (be sure to repalce the input shaft seal and the pushrod bush and seal on the new box) I would buy genuine VW gear oil, its good stuff and dirt cheap. Need 2 litres, so 2x 1l bottles part number G 060726A2 at 7.57+VAT from the dealer. If you have a local TPS branch try them, often get 10% off dealer price
GSF part numbers for input shaft & pusrod seals, input shaft bush: 315VG0010 Gearbox main shaft bush 311VG0020 Gearbox seal-input shaft 311VG0030 Rod oil seal-main shaft if you want to do release bearing: (can always do this once gearbox is in car later) 193VG0110 Gearbox end plate 193VG0040 release bearing if flange seals need doing on the new box: 311VG0070 gearbox flange seal On the new box check the pushrod is good, if its been damaged in the past you wont be able to release clutch properly. it should slide straight out from the bellhousing side or you can pull it out the other way once release bearing is removed. Loads of info doing the bush & seals, flange seals, pushrod check, release bearing etc here: http://www.brokevw.com/
Are these a must have or just to make sure if something is damaged so can be replaced? The gearbox has quite a big mileage though... 315VG0010 Gearbox main shaft bush 311VG0020 Gearbox seal-input shaft 311VG0030 Rod oil seal-main shaft The pushrod was straight and looked fine from both ends.
those 3 I would definitely replace, as they can only be done with the gearbox out. if the box leaks, it'll ruin the clutch. the flange seals only if leaking, release bearign and plate up to you. you can do the bearing and plate with gearbox in the car no problem so not urgent. flanges a bit more tricky, if unsure if seals are good its a good time to do them now
VW part numbers: 020311108A - pushrod seal - 14.13+VAT 020311107D - pushrod bush - 3.85+VAT 020311113 - input shaft seal - 14.71+VAT
Nice! Maybe it's smart to replace the clutch disc and pressure plate at the same time while I'm at it? What about the flywheel, does it usually need to be surfaced at a machinery or get a new one? Or just clean it?
Unless the clutch kit is nearly new I would say yep, replace. go for a sachs kit if you can. flywheel will be fine usually unless the clutch has been run down to the rivets, once its off clean it all up and see what it looks like
