Just plumbed it on a longer bit of hose to sit behind the driver's side suspension tower..... that way I can see it when I'm working on it or move it up to see it when I'm driving it. It might be fucked now actually - haven't checked it since I rolled the car....
Hi guys, Couple of questions... Chris let us know how you get on with 'adjusting' your FPR as I have a spare that I'd like to try this on.TSC: Converting to DIGFANT 1 running on a normally aspirated car - Easy?Take it you plum the map sensor into the inlet manfold and it's a case of a little rewiring? Does G60 DF1 have closed loop lambda control as my car is a K plate and I've been wanting to get rid of the AFM for ages now? SetGti post away whenever you feel like it - I guess a lot of people here would be more than happy at obtaining info on how to tweak their engine data maps.
Plumb the Map sensor to a vacuum nipple on the inlet (you need to use exactly 1 metre of the vacuum hose for it to run properly), put the CO pot in a bit of your intake tubing. It's closed loop, lambda control. The standard Digi 2 engine wiring harness plugs straight into the Digi 1 ECU and after that it is indeed just a matter of altering the rest of the loom a bit. You may have even less wiring to do than a Mk2 as I presume you already have a lambda sensor on your car - check the wiring diagram for the Digi 1 system on the SNS tuning site, and compare the pinouts to the diagram in your workshop manual to see.......
Update..... Well we run out of time to set up the BM AFM on the RR. Was super rich at the bottom end to make it adequate higher up... Good fuelling at the bottom end meant super lean up high.. Maybe more time & patience might help... Left the 3.5bar FPR fitted & fitted an original AFM back in. Gave 140atw (TSR) so about 160atfw or thereabouts.. Will perhaps look into the digi 1 route instead to tempt some more power from the car. Realistically a Digi 8v mk2 isnt going to make a whole lot more retaining the standard fuel injection though..
There is a fair bit to understand with Digifant II tuning so I might start another thread with an appropriate title. It will get quite lengthy.
140 atw Chris??? Wow thats good going! i really hope i get some decent figures when mine is finished!
Okay TSC sounds good - I take it then in going from DF2 to DF1 I need to wire in two microswitches for closed and Wide open throttle and use a throttle boot that has the IAT sensor integrated? The metre length of vac hosing... I can get phesto 3mm and 4mm stuff from work but I would have to put a y-piece in between my FPR and my vac takeoff on the inlet side of the throttle body - Does the length need to be 1m in this case or how du I go about recalculating the length of vac hose?What about actually running the thing on the standard DF1 map - I take it it would run like a bag-o-$hite?
Yup, you need the throttle switches. You need a CO pot (incorporates the IAT sensor) or you can make your own from a normal potentiometer and a Digi2 IAT sensor (has the same temp/resistance curves, you can get one from a scrap Digi2 AFM). I'd just run a metre length of hose from your splitter - the length is meant to be exactly a metre, but I think there's a bit of give and take there - just don't chop a foot off it or anything. It'll run on the standard chip (ideally on G60 injectors) but it won't be optimised on a N/A engine - if you do a dyno run with an A/F plot on it you can email it to SNS and they'll burn you a chip to correct the A/F ratios all through the range.
Okay TSC so on DF1 the CO is set by dialling in an offset to the resistance of the IAT sensor? It electronic and there is no bleed screw then?
It's electronic but it doesn't involve the IAT sensor - it just so happens that VW chose to put the IAT sensor and the CO setting pot in the same housing. So you can run a separate pot (on the dash, if you really want to!) to adjust the CO, and a separate IAT sensor in the intake somewhere.
Cool sounds good... so I need throttle microswitches, new throttle boot (ABF one?) with fitting for integral IAT sensor and CO pot. Does DF1 utilise the activated charcoal canister system? If not what in the hell do I do with that? Okay regarding injectors - What ones do I ideally want - I've heard that there are some types that have better spray patterns than others or do I simply want a set of G60 ones?
