what do you use to clear out fuel tanks? i guess water is a stupid idea....so what do you use to wash them out of crap?
yes, that's what it was doing at first (looked like icing up), especially when I came to a hill, almost every hill it conked out, but started almost immediately. Last few days it has conked out when cold seconds after starting off. Usually restarts within seconds. This morning I tried a different tack,I floored it to see what happened, and it spluttered a bit then took off like a good 'un, screamed along at er 70 and was oK for the last 5 miles, sweet as anything. No other symptoms, running sweet when it is running. No misfiring. I'm gona finish early, I've turfed the 8 valve outa the garage (she's not happy ) and I've priintd out the carb drawing with loadsa notes on about tests, ohms, etc. In case it's not the carb I'll also check ignition bits and look at plugs. Many thanks for your interest.
you will know if its icing, as when it starts cutting out, put your hand on the carb and it will be noticably cold. ive just been and brought one of those aformentiond diesel filter heaters as it was getting a bit serious, had a damp morning this mornign and just was absolutely terrible (and it was also not idling from cold, as youve just mentioned david)
Maybe icing isn't yor prob L? the 2e2's seem to be troublesome due to being v complicated, but there are lots of tests you can do to try and isolate what's wrong. Which I will have a bash at tonight!
i got a weber dcoe 40 on mine, and everytime it cuts out the carb is freezing, so im pretty sure its carb icing, although it never happened through the winter so might be something else. i was also wondering if timing/mixture had anything to do with it? as i did alter the timing and mixture a few weeks ago and it seems to have made it worse?
Ah I see, you mean almost straight away! Your foot down test sounds like it isn't carb icing after all, if it was putting your foot down wouldn't get you anywhere! It sounds like it could be either something in the carb sticking or a fuel delievery problem like you said a while back Take the filter off and have a look inside to see if you can see any metal bits in it. One thing you can do if you have rust in your tank, is to chuck a big f-off speaker magnet in there. It'll attract all the rust floating about and definitely help. Either way take the plastic cap off under the boot carpet and shine a torch into the tank, see what it looks like! If you see rust, chuck the magnet in the hole The other thing it could be is a worn fuel pump, my Dad had similar problems with his 1.3.
My carb icing was the same in that on the motorway I would only have full throttle or nothing. I assumed this was because only the primary channel froze up and my secondary channel was fine. Full throttle seems to make your car less prone to icing I found. Also when it cut out I would not be able to restart for about 5 minutes at least. When I could restart I would have to give it load of gas to get it to idle nicely. Another thing I would consider doing on a 2E2 or 2E3 is to jam the Choke Flap fully open at all times. You can also do this by rotating the autochoke heater. Means you have to wait a minute before driving off, but your car will run much better as it will never accidently go back on choke under low vacuum conditions.
The choke will never switch on again due to vacuum or lack of it. It is controlled by a the bi-metalic spring in the autochoke unit. The only vacuum unit that has any control on the choke lever is the pull-down unit, and that only stops it closing the last 5mm. If the coolant channel in the inlet manifold was blocked (very common problem) this would cause the choke to do strange things as the autochoke unit will never get enough heat to remain fully off. I'll bet a very large percentage of people who junked their 2e2 carbs due to problems they couldn't solve were down to the o'ring in the inlet manifold, its not a widely published fault but is very common. It took me alot of searching before I found an article about it, and even though I know it exists I haven't been able to find it since Well, this is on the 2e2, not sure about the 2e3 but 99% sure it is the same.
well, I've sorted my problem I think. I did loads of checks on the carb last night but found nothing wrong other than the channel heater is o/c, got one on order. I found that the HT lead at the coil was loose, I may have knocked it a bit when replacing the starter motor recently (that was a b*****d of a job ). I should have realised this before, 'cos I recall in the old days that cutting out going up a hill is a common symptom of a weak spark / coil. Anyway I've learnt an awful lot about the carb etc during these exchanges so there's a +ve benefit! Thanks again all.
This suggests that the 'o' ring between the inlet manifold and head is blocked, search for user rubjonny posts or look at the pierburg faq, there's even a diagram of it on here somewhere.
I am 100% certain my O Ring is not blocked because I changed that when I took my manifold off to put a GTI manifold on. Carb Icing will result in a short wait until your car can start up again as the Ice takes time to melt. Other than all the other crap with the Pierburg you will find they were thrown away because the Vacuum hoses perished. The Electric Choke Heater almost aways broke, the Throttle acuator diagphrams broke. The waxstats broke. Idle Jet constantly gets blocked. Weber idle circuit is much better than pierburgs and much more reliable. I don't blame anyone for changing to a Weber. Weber do make much better carburettors.
doesn't sound good for 2E2's! [:^(] anyway my Rocco is still cutting out, went perfectly for 20 miles then started kangarooing. The only fault I've found is the open cct channel heater, but I can't think that this would cause cutting out / misfiring straight from cold. The filler neck is like new, spark plugs fine, fuel running clear through the filter, I just don't know what to do next, maybe remove carb and check everything out.
What I meant was that after changing/fixing everything else and it STILL doesn't work the 2e2 gets ripped off and binned, because not many people know about the inlet manifold o'ring. Of course a 2e2 will be less reliable than a BRAND NEW webber, its not really a fair comparison. I agree they are over engineered though, but thats what you get when you take away the manual choke and try to deal with all engine and temperature conditions.
David, I know I keep banging on about it but throughout the thread you describe the exact symptoms I went through ( I also remember the disapointment when I thought it was fixed and it wasn't) to 100% rule out a rust choked fuel pick up the next time it stops, disconnect the fuel line on the tank side of the fuel filter in the engine bay and blow back through into the tank, if you hear it bubble straight away then I'm wrong but if the pressure builds up and then 'gives' I reckon that that's the culprit. Chris
Does the rocco have a fuel reservoir at the front of the block under the airbox like the MK2 Golf? I had a quick look on ETKA but couldn't see one. If so it might be worth getting one fitted (it uses 2 of the rocker cover bolts) as well as a MK2 pump if they fit. It does sound like it might be fuel starvation, I know the 1.3 carb pumps can be weak but not sure how reliable the 1.6/1.8 pumps are. Edit: just had another look and it should have one, the pump & reservoir are the same as the MK2 units. Might be woth swiping a pump & reservoir from the scrappy Edited by: rubjonny
