I recon what you need to do is keep up the tradition of owners past, add another alarm on top and have a secret bodged wire somewhere, free immobiliser
Hmm. Found a few dodgy "twisted together" alarm installation type wires. Soldered them all up properly. Things have improved slightly - I now get a solitary spark from the king lead when the ignition is turned on, but absolutely nothing on cranking. Tried the Haynes Book of Lies test for the ignition control unit (the one on top of the ECU mounting bracket). It says the voltage across the coil (with hall sender disconnected) should be two volts when the ignition is first switched on, then decay to zero after a second or two. Mine gives a blip of maybe 0.1v the second you turn on the ignition and drops off instantly. Coil is known good, so chief suspect at the minute is the ignition control unit, unless anyone has seen something similiar before and knows better......
Without sounding rude, it sounds a bit of a dog. Tear it all out and put one of your homemade specialities in there.
check the condition of the wires on the plug to the hall sender,pull the rubber boot back as ive had a few break right were the wires enter the boot giving the same symtoms
Lol..... think my last idea was right. Got a known good ignition control unit tonight and swapped it over. The timing is a million miles out so it pops and bangs but won't fire, but The king lead from the coil is giving out plenty of good strong sparks. Just need to set the timing and it should be back to terrorise the people of Bangor, Northern Ireland!
The car must be cursed...... changed the ignition unit. A flurry of sparks from the king lead. Yay! Went to time it up this morning - no sparks at all. Tried a different ECU - lots of sparks again. Went for a cuppa, came back. No sparks. Changed the ECU back to the original - sparked away happily. Connected the king lead to the dizzy - each plug sparked away happily in turn. Went for a cuppa. Came back and nothing would spark. I think it's time for the Kango.
Found another skillfully twisted together wire last night - right up inside the ECU connector shell. Nice and corroded and almost separated. It's sparking again now....... I've developed an irrational hatred of dodgy alarm fitters........
I've had one of those for years, I'd say welcome to club but you wouldn't want to be a memeber of it! The EEC ban all sorts of things every day but still they wont ban Scotchlocks
Lol..... Scotchloks are evil devices! Getting there slowly, I think. Timed it up tonight and it now starts on the button. Starts on the button, idles perfectly happily at the correct idle speed for about 3 or 4 seconds, then dies. If I touch the throttle pedal at all during the three or four seconds it is idling, it dies straight away. Oddly, if I disconnect the airflow meter it starts on the button, idles for four or five seconds and then dies (but dies more slowly than if the AFM is connected). Am I missing something really obvious here? I'm thinking of torching the car and the garage at the same time......
Incidentally, I can't figure out why that particular nobber would have gone to the bother of pulling the ECU, unwinding about 8 inches of the main loom, unscrewing the screw that holds the ECU connector housing to the contact housing, sliding the connector shell back down the loom to get at the contact housing - and then not even bothering with a soldering iron and an inch of heatshrink?
I'd guess cos he's pulling a CAT 1 alarm out and doesn't give a toss! I say go back through the log book and wipe all the previous owners from the planet........
Lol... would you beleive they're all ex-directory? Any ideas on what would cause a Digi to run perfectly for 4 seconds, then die a death, o Golden one? At least it's repeatable, it does the same bloody thing every time......
i need a solution to the same problem, it sounds identical to mine, i will have another go tomorrow weather permitting, and let you know if i find a solution. iain.
Have you tried pulling the top of the airflowmeter and checking/cleaning the swipe contacts? Did it run before?
It ran 100% until I changed the clutch cable - all the wiggling around the loom area must have disturbed those dodgy twisted together wires. That's why I can't understand why it is suddenly behaving so weirdly - 4 seconds of perfect idle and then it dies. The fuel pump primes fine, and runs for a second after the engine dies. I'm just wondering if there is some hidden relay I don't know about that starts it and keeps it running for the first few seconds before the ECU itself takes over - or maybe an ECU relay? I don't even know if the '90 digi has an ECU relay, or where it is..... [:^(] [:^(]
