Currently doing brake overhaul.done all the the cylinders/shoes etc. But I would prefer to change the pipes into Rear brakes drums/brake cylinders.. First of all what size are the unions for this.. And also I'm thinking of doing them myself I'm not scared of by many jobs. Having done just about everything else Engine rebuilds etc. But I've never made up brake pipes so any advice is welcome. Seen the kits for flaring the ends but to be honest I'm a clueless when it comes to this (new to me)lol. Been reading up on single and double bubbles etc that's as far as I've got. Forgot to say it's a golf mk2 1.8 driver 1991.
ETKA will give you the sizes (M10) - you can buy copper / copper nickel piping, there was a recent (slightly heated) discussion over what you should and shouldn't use. brake pipe; brake hose - Golf(GO) [EUROPA 1991 year] (7zap.com) Rear Hard Brake Lines | Club GTI
If it's only a few pipes it will be cheapest to measure the lengths and get them made up from ebay or a friendly local garage/motor factor. If you envisage needing to do more in the future, then look into buying a flaring tool, I guess even the cheap ones will work fairly well, but better ones will be more expensive. Have a look on youtube for info. Maybe you can borrow a flaring tool from somewhere, or know someone who will help make up some pipes for you. Fittings will be M10 x1 threads. 3/16 inch copper or cunifer tubing is readily available (probably 25 foot rolls!), as are the fittings. The flaring tool, fittings and pipe will always be there if you need them in the future.
Ok.thanks I'll have to look at how many I'm planning to do.might not be worth the trouble Just get them made I think. When you say cheap tool.are you talking £30 £35 ebay kits.thats what I've seen. I know theres workshop standard for 4 times As much. But has anyone made successful flares from a ebay £35 KIT.
Use CuproNickel/CuNiFer, it's almost as strong as steel, yet not much harder form than copper. Loads of companies probably do off the shelf kits for Golfs? Automec? https://www.halfords.ie/tools/fuses...fords-brake-pipe-flaring-tool-kit-187982.html Absolutely rubbish, don't buy. https://www.micksgarage.com/d/brake...161JLjCmW50mdEbdHYK4gdoGHY5aEaYBoC8mUQAvD_BwE These actually aren't that bad. https://www.sykes-pickavant.com/products/braking-tools/pipe-flaring-tools/68 They're quite good. https://www.sykes-pickavant.com/products/braking-tools/pipe-flaring-tools/553 These are great, but really need to be vise mounted. That's what I use in work.
As Tristan has said above don't use the one in the first link they are absolute garbage and a complete waste of time the last one is the one I have and the same type I used when I used to work in the trade they are expensive but as long as you know how to use it will make perfect flares every time, if you do go down the route of making your own pipes please gen up on how to make them and form them I've seen pipes shaped by hand where they have been partially collapsed when they have been bent to go round part of the car.
Yep, the first 2 are awful. We’ve got an old Sykes & pickavant one and it’s wicked. Best flaring tool I’ve ever used
Also, to echo Valvemiester, brakes are a major safety component. If you do make your own, practice on a good few first, and have someone else with experience of the job, look at the flares.
Thanks all,gonna look into getting em made or buy from herritage or someone. I do get the safety issue of bending copper Gotta be done right.i do plumbing jobs and have a pipe bender for 15&22mm copper. Same bit of kit is available for brake pipes If I did loads would be worth investing in the most expensive but not for a hobiest. I bought a Bosch diesel injector removal kit Used it once sat in the garage ever since. But handy to have.accumulating so much Kit lately. Can buy gti ones pre shaped.but mine are drums will they fit just wondered if they much different.
Got someone gonna make me some new lines for me.but discovered another problem while under there the regulator is seized solid In the position of arm into the regulator. Now removed got a new one coming.im not sure about these and how they operate but the big spring was loose also not under any load.
Looks like you've got it sorted but I used one of the £35 flaring tools, "Block on a Stick" and it's actually quite good. The factory hose is obviously metric and uses a DIN style flare, so if you want OEM that's the way to go. Although the hose it a bit more. If you want to do what everyone else does you can use the nearest imperial size (really common) and bubble flare it. I wanted to do the OEM route but I spoke to Automec about it and they told me that "hardly any cars use DIN". Which looking back on it now is a daft statement because why would a 90's German car use Imperial and some random flare type, and not DIN
Another question plz anyone.the more I crawl under this car the more I'm finding lol. Just discovered my inner cv boot is well split so took off the cv yesterday.had one in the garage spare but was surprised at how small it is in comparison. My car is a the 1.8'auto box 1991.anyone got a part number for this don't wanna order the wrong thing. The cv seems fine should I just do the boot or all the joint? Not bothered about doing it all more about availability is it anything special being an auto cv??? Thanks Just measured across the face of it is 100mm so if I purchase any 100mm would I be ok Not a different rating for an auto?
Should be the same one, can check on ETKA If there is no damage to the balls or “races” and nothing is funny coloured then it should be fine to re use. Polished ares are fine as long as you can’t feel a groove or dip
bias valve should be nice and springy if you manually pull the lever out as far as it will go and release, if the lever is all floppy then the tension spring inside has rusted away. if you can find similar spring it can be fixed so long as the valve is otherwise ok. when setting up the new one set the big spring up so the slack is just taken out of it, this is close enough for most. to do it the proper way you need to hook up pressure gauges inline with the rear brakes so not easy diy auto cv boots same as equivalent size manual shaft boots, so auto shaft with 100mm inner cv = mk2 gti cv boot kits
Bias valve Spring was loose at end when removed.the arm was corroded with the arm All the way "in"position Got a new one coming may have been saveable as I did manage to free it up but looking inside was nasty rust and crap.i suspect moisture in. Brake fluid is the cause over time I'm sure. The car is lowered around 35mm maybe a bit more so I need to just set it so Spring Is just on the way to be tensioned but not if that makes sense. Not sure on my car height as the springs shocks were nearly new but lad couldn't recall What drop they are.i just whacked em on.dont know what bearing it has but have heard something about it being affected by lowering.look about 35mm to me.
