Building the ultimate 8v engine I have started to plan my ultimate 8v engine and I am looking of any more tip that any one could help with this plan, this is what I have planed at the min. Audi 80 (bubble block) bored to a 2.1 83mm pistons Rod bearing set Crank bearing set Ported cylinder head with big valve conversion Road rally piper cam Platinum plugs Audi 100 Intake Manifold Oil cooler 8v ecu up-grade Power boost value Lightened flywheel Solid front engine mount These are a list of thing that I would also like to do but would like some advice wither to do them or not needing to. Forged light weight alloy pistons Upgrading to heavy duty valve springs Lightweight titanium retainers Strengthened rods Stage 2 fuel pump Upgrading injectors Lsd differential So if any one has a similar engine or could give me some advice this would be great Thanks Aaron
Platinum plugs won't give you anything over standard other than a lighter wallet, and possibly last longer than normal ones. The cam spec seems a bit mild compared to what you appear to want out of the engine. Power boost valve Speak to chrismc or oakgreen88 about proper 8v engines...
not much point going for forged pistons etc... if you sticking with digi-1 engine managment, or k-jet. you would be better off getting yourself a 2.0l 16v and rebuilding that with a few choice mods like a nice flowed head and a 4 branch. would out run the 8v engine in the spec you quoted any day. ohh yeh, what do you mean by stage 2 fuel pump? the one you have at the moment should be good for crazy power. seen standard pumps used on 16v turbos up to about 400bhp.
Thanks for all the info lads, Dont want a 16v, I want a torque 8v might also go the route of DTA ecu and throttle bodies, Also does any one know about steel cracks,
Despite what you may have heard a decent 16v is more than capable of matching an 8v for torque, like for like. But lets not start that argument yet again
lol, yeh, this could go on for ever. if your really wanting a 8v, on TB's, your going to want to source a cross flow head. loads about in the usa. someone on here built the same sort o engine your on about, but sold it pretty much stright away.
mmmmmm In all honesty I think Oakgreen88 (VR6Will as he is now known) may well steer you away from a hot 8v, & he is a man who should know..his car is now VR6 powered!!..ive been there & done it too & im now a 16v owner... Wills car used a fully rebuilt & prepped 3A bubble block (2L) with a x-flow pack D head, solid lifters, Schrick 304 cam with DTA management & 45mm Jenvey bodies... The Ultimate 8v in many eyes!!! Now given further time/money/inclination im sure it would make more than the 170BHP/145lbs/ft it did when mapped at Stealth, maybe 180BHP & 155lbs/ft..... Im sure he was disappointed when I saw the car at a TSR RR day...his made a solid 140atw, only to be followed by "Wussel" (from this forum) having his 16v put on. This 16v is still an 1800, but with flowed head/4 branch & some mildly re profiled cams & a good setup. The 16v made the same 140atw. TSR then undid the air filter lid (as his airbox wasnt drilled!) & did another run to demonstrate the importance of maximised breathing...144atw!! In comparison some of the other cars that went on from the forum.....Paul Haslam 2L 16v Jetta (engine built in a shed) 160atw, Mart Emmment 2.1 16v Golf engine home done again....168atw. My old digi 8v had a 2L block, Pack C head & Schrick 276. that had 155BHP/153lbs/ft (again at Stealth). Was a very smooth & strong 8v motor but i sold it to make way for something that would be better on track...(was fed up with the 16v boys passing me all the time) Although it had more torque than a lot of 2L 16v converted cars, it didnt rev as high, so i was disadvantaged on track, though it was pretty good on the road! Id just think VERY carefully before wasting s building a Torquey 8v, when a well executed 2L 16v will ultimately be a faster engine, & can be built up for much less money! Edited by: chrismc
a mate had a grant motorsport 2.0 8v in he's mk1. grant used an mk3 2e block with the mk1 head as its shims and rev's a lot better, this car did have the best for both, low down torque like an8v & rev'd like a 16v & more 8k! at that time i also had a mk1 with a 1.8 16v with 150ish and matealways had the better of me, low down & top end,in those days152hp was a lot, torque was also 150 @ 2.5k now a days its not.
but then the 8v had a 200cc capacity advantage (Torque) & had been fairly well fettled (if it revved to 8K) The result would still have been different if the 16v had the same 2L capacity I reckon Edited by: chrismc
I'd not invest too heavily in an 8v either. Drop in a 2.0 block for convenience sake but spend money on a 16v. I spent a lot of time and effort on mine and despite it being a nice engine that goes quite well I'd rather have gone for one with more valves in the first place and got more power. Dont get me wrong, I'm still using the engine and love it!
was gonna say exactly the same thing....he was a bit dissappointed with the end result i think. hence the 2.9 vr6 that lives in his engine bay now...car goes a fair bit quicker and sounds gorgeous now. oh, and FYI he's changed username to vr6will now Edited by: acf8181
got an 2.016v, home flowed head & inlet, kent 264's, tsr manifold. 184.9. how much would it cost to get an 8v to that?? there's no point in my eyes, but each to there own i guess.
insted of doing all that why not go 20v turbo, 225hp straight out of the box it will out perform your 8v any day...
I suppose a 225 conversion would be viable for the kind of funds required for an "ultimate" 8v engine..... Just think that the "budget" 2L 16v option, with getting on for 200BHP with a few choice bits is a very viable alternative to a bells & whistles 8v...
probs right, also when youve got power like that traction starts being an issue, how much power is needed in a light front wheel drive car anyway
