Hi all been looking at crankshaft options for my 1.8t rebuild I’ve seen the ALH from the tdi and ALT mentioned here On vortex they mention a few other forged options that could be used BPY BMP AXW BMB AWA CDLC CDLF CDLG CZRA which opens the market up a bit preferred route is to max out displacement (unless there’s a reason not too) I know the ALH will give me that but not sure of the others Also google a minefield of crankshafts, does anyone know the part number for the ALH Cheers all
You need to be more specific with what you want to achieve with your 1.8T? Just googling and reading more opinion on forums will only confuse you more. At least you tried though.
Thanks for the reply Looking to build a 2.1 stroker from the ground up with an agu lump that I have I have mk4 mot fail that I bought for the build knowing the engine is good I have a mk2 3 door it will be going in for fast road and straight line use I have a mk3 tank, lines, wiring Will need management that I haven’t decided on yet Engine wise I’m starting with the block, crankshaft - bearings - rods -pistons and associated machine work Looking to get the right crank decided for maximum displacement and the rest to follow As you say there’s lots of info out there
Am I looking for power, In a word, yes haven’t got a fixed goal at this point but what I do want to do future proof the bottom end for added power gains initially it’ll be bottom end build - gas flowed head - bigger turbo- injectors and everything else that goes with that clutch and 02j gearbox build, will need lsd not sure on piggy back or stand alone management but I will need launch im open to suggestions regarding any part of the build there are very knowledgeable folks here for instance if it would better to go 2.0 instead of 2.1 then I’m all for that
Tbh, without going stroker, especially if using an 02j as well, 350bhp os going to be more than enough, if not too much, for use on the road. I recently got a spin in a mk2 with 280 ish, 1.8t k04, with either 195 or 205 x 16s, and in the dry, tyres warm, it just turned rubber into smoke in the lower gears. Until the rods sh1t themselves... But that's another story. Unless you have easy access to the required bottom end bits, if it was myself, I'd be investing the time and funds in forged rods, pistons, a nice efficient turbo, good management, a nice LSD, suspension, brakes and sticky Tires. But I look forward to seeing yours.
Agree that 350 is more than enough for road use with fwd There is a question mark over straight line then, maybe using switchable maps could be the answer, this goes back to management - only want to fork out for it once so needs to be right tbh I’m keen on using a stroker main reason is that the block will need to be bored anyway which means stripping it out it’s a high miler so for piece of mind I’d get it done Soo keeping that in mind, looking for some crankshaft info
Only 350bhp? You could probably squeeze that out of an 8 valve if you're going to bolt on a talent compensating snail... It would save a load of cost and grief if you're considering going to a stroker and overbore build. I'm currently sorting out issues with a past but stupid Oettinger 16S engine "build" where someone thought boring to 83.5mm was a good idea... It left heehaw material to properly seal the headgasket. And that's on a naturally aspirated road car engine so lower cylinder pressures than would be seen with a higher output forced induction build that was gong to see hard use. VW cranks of either cast or forged hue are not known to fail much. You could source an 06X 2.0 8v such as an APK engine code out of a mk4 Golf as a base block and crank which would give 82.5mm bore and 92.8mm stroke. Select your forged rods and pistons to suit your spec. And you could swap the crank out for a TFSI forged one if you feel you must. IIRC the 2.0 8v APK block will need the head bolt holes resized as they use a slightly smaller diameter bolt than the 20v head uses. Using a TFSI block brings in issues with internal oil galleries what with the balancer shaft assembly and oil filter housing. The 2.0 8v APK just uses the std non balance shaft oil pump like the 06X 20 valve engines. Some of the 06X diesel cranks and petrol cranks differ in that the counterweights are on one cylinder's crank web. This is probably done to reduce internal pumping losses between cylinders 1&2 and 3&4 as those pistons reciprocate up and down their respective bores. Whether the counterweight lobe weights would effect over all engine balance / harmonics when not matched to same original weight piston rod combos well who knows.
Just understand, what you want to 'build' and your perception, may be two different ideologies. MK2 Golf also. Does not take a lot to accelerate that chassis. But you have explained yourself at least. Most folks who build "1.8T" strokers, do so for a eariler and faster build of torque. A 2.1 1.8t is not what folks build, unless you wish a to prove a point and pay to do so, for no benefit. A 1.8T can develop '500 ps' with the right turbo and associated headwork and parts, but you will also have to rev the engine, as the real important attribute - torque of about 550Nm or so at near 300kPa, will stablise from 5000 rpm to 7500 rpm. So you end up having to rev the engine to 8000 rpm. That means more cost into your build to ensure it stays togther. With a "stroker" 500 ps can also be achieved , with the turbo building same boost from 600 to 500 rpm earlier. The engine is overbored from 81mm to 82.5 mm, and a 92.8 mm TFSI crankshaft with used, with custom rods and stroker pistons. It will be more expensive than just a 1.8, even if you are doing the work yourself. A compromise would be to build a 1849 cc aka a "1.9" with 82.5 mm pistons. You keep your 1.9 crank. What I can say, is 550 Nm in MK2 Golf will require more supporting components, to keep the car safe as well as have traction. This is kind of build is not a simple through it together and see. Maybe if you have not undertaken such an extensive build as you are asking about, consider a refresh of the base engine and a smaller AET or Littco hybrid KKK turbo, keep it simple and 400Nm or so, and a car that is still savage. That is my 2p on the subject have done and tuned that sort of thing myself.
A 95.5 mm diesel crank in a 220 mm bloc can be done ..but to me, its a stretch of limits.. pretty much as if you would go to large in bore.... For a turbo engine...83.0 bore is as big you can go, to keep things on the safe side...to get a 1870 cc with the 86.4 mm crank. Altough if going for extreme power levels, then stay at 82.0 or 82.5 bore
