So I've had a number of issues since buying this car last year. I've replaced many parts to get it on the road but I still have this cutting out/turning off issue. It seems to happen when I apply the brakes and I'm slowing down. So today I was approaching a roundabout, I put the clutch down and started to apply the brakes and it just turned off but as I was still moving, stuck it in 2nd gear, clutch up and it started back up. This happened twice and both times I was able to bump start it. Idling is lumpy, not sure if that helps? Any advice guys?
A couple of things that I would check: 1. Is your ISV buzzing/working? Also worth removing it and giving it a rinse in petrol as they can get sooted up. 2. Throttle micro-switches - sometimes it's the switch more often it can be the wiring that has open-circuited - check their position and operation with a continuity tester. 3. Mixture - car may be running lean/rich, generally if it's rich they car will smell 'petrolly' if lean well it won't but may also cause it to cut out. The boffins may have more ideas but I would start there.
1. ISV does buzz but I might give it a rinse 2. these are on the throttle body right? anyone have a how-to guide to check these switches? 3. mixture is defo out so I do need to sort that Let me try and come back with the findings Thanks @costel1969
Remove the throttle body air screw and clean it and check its o ring seal. Reset the mixture using Rubjonny's guide in the pinned thread in 16v section how to tune your 16v blah blah
Might be a long shot but is your battery up to it ,my car starts very easily even with a near flat battery but runs rough till it gets some charge up....just saying. GVK makes some good points ,my mixture screw was leaking @ the "o" ring and it ran rough with unstable idle,only recently I replaced the screw with good seal,thought it was the WUR leaking air but that problem went away as a result....buggered if I know why but a result .
open screw to increase rpm (anti-clockwise) need the red lead nr coil disconnected to set the base idle
Fitted a brand new Varta battery at the beginning of the year. Actually when trying to restart the car, the starter does struggle but I've also replaced that too. I hear plp say that the diesel starter is better?
It's already sitting at around 1000rpm and that's with the screw fully tightened. I think it should be sitting around 850-900 no? But I don't know how to change that
have a read of my guide as mentioned, check everything over. A good one is if you put new non-shrouded fuel injectors on, that gives an air leak past the shrouding system, simply pinch off the vacuum hose on the block breather that goes to the inlet or 5th injector housing. or it could be the plastic shrouded injector inserts are broken off, easy done as they're brittle by now
Not replaced the injectors myself but I'll have to check. So take the large hose off the 5th injector valve?
not the 5th injector itself, but depending on which inlet manifold you have theres a vacuum pipe from the block breather to either front of inlet between 1 & 2 or the 5th injector housing. simply pinch this thin hose shut without disconnecting or pull it off and block the nipple on inlet/housing to see if it drops the idle down
that suggests you have too much air past the injectors, probably due to damaged inserts or it doesnt have air shrouded injectors at all. no biggy, just leave the vacuum line blocked. can just push something up the hose for now till you sort it another day (or not, I never did )
the inserts just unscrew, you have a rubber seal and a plastic insert under the main brass bit. then the injectors themselves need to have the correct 'top hat' ends to complete the setup. often what used to happen back in the day people would buy a set of mecedes brass injectors because they used to be dirt cheap they work fine but no top hat. that or perhaps mk1 gti injectors were used which are the same but steel and again no top hat I ran my old 1.8 16v with and without the top hat injectors (inserts replaced and rebuilt) didnt notice any difference either way
What did you push up there or can I simply leave the pipe disconnected? I mean I would block the pipe with a bolt or something and jubilee clip but can I leave the connection at the block open?
an old stud, ball bearing, whatever will push up the hose, or cap the nipple off with a bung and bolt up the breather pipe. wouldn't want to leave the breather side open as it'll likely spray oil mist everywhere but apart from that wouldn't affect running
So I found a bolt of the right diameter which I cut and pushed up the pipe and refitted and I'm still not able to adjust the idle. I guess either need to put a clamp around it or fix the inserts.
