Dave's Crank Oil Seal Tool (T10053) - For Crappy Modern PTFE Seals on 1.8T 20V

I have to admit that I c0cked badly when fitting the crank seal.

I used some tape around the crank nose to slide the seal on.
The inner lip did not slide on properly and the edge was visible.
So, I eased the lip in with a very thin piece of smooth, blunt, plastic.

It did not work and there is an oil leak!

I have had to order a new seal. Found one at a good price on ebay.

I asked the dealers for the price of a pukka T10053 installation tool.
There were 2 trainees only working at the dealers, the manager and the experienced guy were both on annual hols.
They could not even find the tool!
So I had to make my own.

I was lucky to find a top of a shoe cream bottle exactly the right size to the protection sleeve!
I was also lucky to have a piece of tube the right inside diameter for the pusher!



These new seals are, IMHO, a crap design when compared with spring-lip seals!
A flippy-floppy flimsy bit of PTFE is not the best way to seal a rotating shaft!

I believe they were introduced some time after 1997.
The APY Head that Carey sent me had NBR spring-lip seals.

I tried to find VITON spring-lip seals but 35 x 48 x 10 is not an industry standard.
There are aftermarket NBR seals for Japanese motor cycle forks, but these are a linear seal not rotating!
The original NBR spring-lip seals used by VAG are NLA!

NOW! Back in the 1970s VAG used VITON spring-lip seals.
This is one from a Mk1 Golf Camshaft - 026 103 085
Replaced at some time before 1983 by an NBR seal - 026 103 085D

Downhill to cheap and nasty all the way folks!