DESPERATE PLEA FOR HELP from someone in north west. RE:My rado g60.

Im making a plea for help...i really really need someone with g60 knowledge,and probably the tools...lm1 wideband etc? to try and remedy my corrado's problem that ive had for 2 years.

Yep,2 years. [:^(]

A few may know the background on it,ive had various 25+ pages topics across the forums now,and nobody seems to know whats wrong with it.

Im seriously out of cash,i cant even afford to reinsure it at the end of the month,but its just driving me crazy not knowing whats wrong with it.
Ive spent around 1k replacing parts/trying to remedy it.

Ive had it at local garages who have wrongly diagnosed a few things such as lambda probe,and sticking valve...I took the head off/reseated valves/fitted all new stem seals etc etc cambelt,the lot...Only to fire it up and the problem still be there. [:^(]

The problem is as follows...
If you stab the throttle,its very slow to respond,and it will intermittently pop/fart instead of revving while hitting throttle.
It will fart randomly while driving...its always as i hit the throttle.

Ive found a way to remedy it.
If i tape the wot (wide open throttle switch) closed...it totally irradicates the problem...it revs responsively,and the popping/farting totally dissapears.

List of things ive replaced,i may have missed a few things...the ignition timing has been set/checked and double checked countless times.

Fuel filter.
ecu.
chip.
head gasket and all new exhaust/inlet gaskets.
Valves reground/re-seated.
New cam belt/tensioner and static timing spot on.
all sensors inc lambda.
ign timing bang on 6deg btdc.
co pot.
Injector loom.
Injectors (as of today)
Injector seals and caps.
pipe 1 meter long to ecu.
Spark plugs from vw 70 feckin quid!
Spark plug leads/dizzy cap/rotor arm.
Dizzy itself.
New throttle body gaskets.
New throttle body switches.
All earths cleaned up with emory and replaced.
Alternater.
Voltage regulator.
fpr.
fpr pipe to inlet manifold.
All senders/sensors checked for continuity/shorting to and from ecu countless times.
fuel pump relay.
ecu relay.

I grabbed a couple of video's today,but i couldnt get it to pop/fart...hopefully you can see the difference with the wot held closed though.

First video:With wot as it should be.Slow to rev,and pops/farts while driving.
Excuse the noise of my mongy foot.


Second video:With wot held closed,revs freely and more responsively,with no popping/farting at all.


Please someone help before i smash the bast*rd to bits with a trolley jack.[:^(]

Neil.

 

accell enrichment u tried the tps throtle posistion sensor when u blip the throttle the sensor adds extra fuel 4 a clean rev

 

They don't have a tps m8

Just idle switch and wot (wide open throttle switch)

Neil.

 

take it the car is an early G60 with no throttle P/S and only WOT switch?

whats the fuel pressure like?

fault codes??

 

Its a late g60 with an idle switch and a wot switch on the throttle body,both have been changed/tested etc etc...

Fuel pressure was checked at the fuel pressure switch on the end of the fuel rail.And was bang on 2.4bar which according to bently manual is spot on.Although a couple of people on the forums say it isn't right,and should be 3bar same as the fpr.

I dunno who or what to believe...bently says 2.4bar so id say its correct?

Fault codes im unsure of,but maybe a year ago i made a reader that flashed up a few...i reset them and the problem is still here today.

This things making an already ill guy even more so... [:^(]

 

isv or isv controller prob ?? looks like the isv is still trying to make it idle even though you have opened the throttle??

 

what year is the car? from memory yours should be upto 92 with no throttle P/S

 

Thanks for the suggestion infinity...its a new one so i like it.

I have cleaned the isv...probably a couple of times over the past couple years...Do you think your idea is plausable?

vrbanana,its a 92 yep. :-) I never knew any g60 had a tps tbh.

Cheers,Neil.

 

fuel pressure should be 3 bar with no vacuum and 2.5 with vacuum

 

realy sounds like an enrichment on throttle have u checked the voltage goes from 0 to 5v had similar thing with 20v the voltage became flaky causing weird enrichments

 

Ah,which vac would that be vrbanana? ecu line or something? It was checked with everything intact so the 2.4bar sounds ok?

Does it sound like the isv is trying to hold tickover?

Thanks guys...im really tired of going over things with it but new idea's are appreciated.
Neil.

edit:bens_cab,lambda fluctuates from 0.1v to 0.9 or something...But the thing is,the problem is still there with the lambda unplugged.

 

compression test maybe?

 

how long has the car been sat could be stale fuel

 

Compression is well above average,and the car has been used daily since buying it around 2 years ago believe it or not

 

well u have changed lots of things so i would say its a voltage problem somewhere have u got a multimeter if so check voltage to isv wot switch just incase its somthing simple like an earth coroded

 

The 2.4 is ok as long as it increases with boost, if not then itll run lean, you need to check the fuel pressure with no vacuum to make sure it does run at 3 bar. sounds like lean fueling fault, only full throttle enrichment masks the fault to a degree.

Think from memory (but my memory is cr@p) the vacuum pipes comes off the manifold near the T/B i think

 

a VR pressure reg would increse the fuel pressure by 1 bar

 

Cheers guys...All earths etc are mint ben.

My heads killing me,banging headache with thinking about it the whole time

Just wondering if the vac pipe you mention is the little one running from fpr to inlet manifold vrbanana? as the one from t/b to ecu is for the map sensor...

I dunno why,but im intrigued by the isv idea of trying to hold it at idle...but then the isv is controlled via the ecu and ive changed it about 5/6/7/8 times!? so i suppose that leaves the isv itself as a possible cause?

Neil.

 

the fpr uses the same signal as the map sensor so if u had a vac leak it make the car run like crap try starting it up at take vac of tb and see if theres a change in running condition if there is a leak then u may only be using the lean part of the map

 

Isv only moves air around the closed TB to increase the idle speed, don’t think it’s that but if you want to check you could blank off the pipes and run it above idle so it won’t stall