ah i see still think it would look good with dafodiles in you need someone with a diagnostics machine or like
Thing is,after having had it at local places around here,it seems no fecker knows what they are on about [:^(] I cant remember the last time i saw a propper garage with full on diagnostic equipment etc...full of jacka$$es these days.
Just remembered another thing... When setting ignition timing,the mark on the pully/flywheel is boucing back and forth...but every so often becomes stable. Ive asked about this before but never got to the bottom of it... Crank keyway/crank pully are mint,no wear causing the pully to turn on the crank or anything,and the crank bolt was replaced with a mk1 gti item (uprated/non stretch bolt) ^^this was done after the problem started. Neil.
Right. Interesting this problem. Too further iron out a fuel flow problem. Connect fuel pressure gauge before FPR. Make sure you can see it from the windscreen. With motor on and vaccum/boost sensing hose connected you should read 2.5bar at idle and 3 bar with the sensing line disconnected. Now attempt to run the car with boost pressure and FPR vaccum line connected. When you reach wide open throttle the Fuel pressure should read 3bar and as you at going into boost the fuel pressure should increase. If it does not you got a duff pump. If a wide band AFR meter was atteched to the car this would narrow this problem down even further.
plugs are a bit sooty he said sounds like he has timing jitter but hes tried a new dizzy ect some weird problem with this car me thinks what would cause the timing to jitter ? dodgy dizzy plugs leads cap rotor are?
Thanks for the input toyotec,edit:cap/leads/rotor all replaced. Where you say this...^^ What do youmean by boost sensing hose? And where could i borrow a fuel pressure gauge from? unless they are dirt cheap from somewhere? Just don't know how to go about obtaining one... Phats,plugs are fine m8,a little...and i mean a little on the sooty side if anything. Neil.
if the timing was a tooth out would it be possible to to get the timing right with the light by moving the dizzy just thinking if it was a tooth out and the dizzy had been adjusted to line the marks up what kind of problems would it cause
I swapped em out of my mates g60 which is running mint,he now has my original injectors in his,and its perfectly fine.
Believe it or not,ive looked over this a few times m8...cambelt on and off more than jodie marsh gets her bags out. Edit:and its all spot on...the timing i mean.
I use the flywheel marks now after people saying i shouldn't use the crank pully one as they can be out. edit:for ignition timing i mean. For the static timing,i use the notch on the cam pully,aligned to the slit in the back plate. Neil.
Anyone out there with the equipment that can come have a look at it for me? I have a big dry unit where it can be looked at,and tools etc... Like i said earlier,i will do my best to make it worth someones effort...16v 2y coded gearbox anyone? or a mint wolfsburg mk1 steering wheel? mint series 1 mk1 dashboard? A 16v engine?! Ive got all sorts of sh|t id be willing to give to someone who can fix it for me[:^(] Before i recently sold a 9a lump...i was sooo close to sticking 45 webers on it and chucking it in the corrado,fecking supercharged digifart sh|t Neil.
if the flywheel marks line up what about the bottom pulley could out? surely worth checking if they are out by quite a bit then could awnser a few questions i always use the bottom pulley when i do cambelt and timing checks