I've got a feeling its the AGG engine but not 100% mate. Can get him to check if you like RJ. Cheers Nick
ok, im not 100% sure of the setup procedure for the agg, if it doesnt have a crank sensor then I think you set it up as per my guide except you test the co at the sniffer pipe on the zaust manifold, and the ecu temp sensor is black 4 pin. if it does have a crank sensor then all you can do is set all the timing marks up and check for ault codes!
Thats great help RJ your a legend Will have a look later when i see him. Just a quick question, is the sniffer pipe the one that usually has a green rubber type cap on it which comes from the manifold? Is checking all the timing and emissions etc the first thing we should look at to see if it solves the problem? Thanks for your help mate Nick
yep thats the one, tbh you probably wont need to mess with the emmissions as the lambda will prob take care of it, and i dont think the idle is adjustible on these engines either!
Was wondering that because when i was looking over it the other day there wasn't a screw on the AFM like there is on my Digi. I don't have a clue what could be causing it to run as bad as it is. Some people have said head gasket due to the amount of smoke....... Back to mine quick. Mine has a Siemens ECU and was wondering if the chips from ebay will work on these ECU's and just wondering what your view is on them. Cheers Nick
ive tried a few chips on my mk2 and non seemed to make a huge difference though im not 100% sure it was running right. dont have experience with MK3s at all sorry, all I know is you gotta check carefully what you have as theres loads of different ecus that arnt compatible
Sorry mate, I meant it'll be for my mk2 Digifant, just wasn't sure as mines got a Siemens ECU not a Bosch. Asked one seller on Ebay and he said he's sold them to people with the Siemens ECU before and some were successful and some weren't. It's the dubperformance chips, can't find any of the Blitzchips. Has any of your mk2's had a Siemens ECU all my mates seem to have Bosch ones. Cheers Nick
ah right, well all digi ecus are the same unless it has a lambda retrofitted, the main thing is to check the part number. single letter after the part number means its an earlier ecu and needs 2 chips to work properly, 2 letters means its a later ecu and only needs 1 chip.
Hi RJ Been outside tonight trying to set up my emissions etc. When I do the emissions, does the ECU need to be in set up mode? (disconnect blue temp sensor and rev over 3k 3 times). If it doesn't i can't seem to get the emissions below 2.1 as the screw was wound right out. I didn't do the idle as the rev counter display was showing between 900 and 960 rpm. Also after a while of it being sat on the drive idling the revs went nuts but blipped the throttle and they came back down to normal. Sorry to be such a pain in the ar*e mate, but hope you can help. Cheers Nick
yeah thats how it should be set, I've had trouble in the past due to the idle switch not clicking, air leaks and the throttle not closing fully.
So i need to have it in the set up mode to change the emissions as well as the idle etc. There shouldn't be any air leaks unless i didn't block up where the breather pipe attaches to the throttle body very well. The instructions with the gastester aren't ery clear, either that or i'm just thick , but it says to configure the machine to 2% CO for 8 mins before it goes up the exhaust. As it is already se at 2% do i add the 1.8% on to the 2% or do i go down from 2% to 1.8%. Sorry if i'm being really thick but thanks for your help mate. Cheers Nick
Yep it needs to be in setup mode beforee you can change the idle & co, for the timing you just hold it at 2.25k rpm. its worth checking the throttle closes to the stop firmly, ive had a prob before where the throttle cable was too tight, and another time where the idle switch was adjusted too far, in both cases the throttle was held open slightly. yeah you leave the unit in clean air for around 8 minutes tweaking it till it reads a steady 2.0, then stuff it up the pipe and adjust it to 1.5-1.8. If it still wont play ball then theres something not quite right somewhere, one thing see if you can check all the inlet manifold bolts, they like to work loose sometimes!
Hi mate I was reading on here somewhere last night that all electrical items should be turned off whilst doing the idle and co. If this is true then i don't think it helped not putting it in setup mode & having the headlights on so i could see what i was doing. Also if you turn the car off and the tester turns off too, do you have to start the whole 8min calibration again? Might be worth connecting the machine up to my dads car battery whilst setting it all up. Cheers for you help mate Nick
Yeah i had the headlights one and buy the time the tester had been calibrated the fan was coming on and off every now and again. Think i will have another go this weekend when i got more time and light and not rushing to get it done . Found i've got a nice oil leak when parked facing up a hill with engine running. Got a new sump and rubber gasket to put on this weekend as the underside of my sump has seen the top of a few speed bumps. Cheers for your help mate, much appreciated Nick
yeah its a proper pain in the **** trying to do it, fan kicks in just when its almost tuned and buggers it all up again!
Think its a case for a spending saturday afternoon setting it all up rather than trying to rush it at 7 in the evening when i get home from work. I didn't really give it much time after the fan cut out for it to all settle back down just carried on. Cheers Nick
Hi RJ Think i may have found a problem with my throttle closed switch. When i open the throttle by hand if i let it shut on itself then i can't here the switch click. However, it still clicks when i open the throttle again. It will click if i let the throttle close slowly back to the stop. Should i be able to hear it click when i let the throttle close on itself? Cheers Nick
