Diy Haldex controller........Haldex Controller taken apart with pics

Discussion in 'Transmission' started by sambo, May 11, 2013.

  1. sparrow Paid Member Paid Member

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    Thanks Silvio. I'd spotted that. I've emailed the seller for a replacement, and will use this one to sort the wiring out, and then return it when the new one is here.

    The Integrale is a beautiful car though! [:D]
     
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  2. notenoughtime

    notenoughtime Moderator Moderator

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    Mine arrived this week to :thumbup: and the 16x2 displays, shall I send you one I bought two?
     
  3. sparrow Paid Member Paid Member

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    No, don't worry about it. By the time you've sent it here, and I've sent it back, it'll be cheaper for me to just buy one. lol
     
  4. Golf_NP4 New Member

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    Hi guys, any news?

    Here just fitted back all the parts on the Integrale.....going for a short drive. Haldex controller not needed in this case
     
  5. sparrow Paid Member Paid Member

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    Wiring in progress, some basic code ready to use, then playing should start. Maybe even today.
     
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  6. notenoughtime

    notenoughtime Moderator Moderator

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    Great news :)
     
  7. sparrow Paid Member Paid Member

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    The motor has moved. I now just need to wait for the new board to arrive, as the missing switches mean I can't set the correct running and holding currents. The soldering didn't go to plan...
     
  8. sparrow Paid Member Paid Member

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    I blew my main PC up yesterday, so while waiting for a new motherboard etc. to arrive, I played with this on one of the others. I simply moved the motor forward 80 steps, paused, then moved it back 80 steps. It seems to be working fine.

    [video=youtube_share;9qIRkdeFPrI]https://youtu.be/9qIRkdeFPrI[/video]
    All I'm doing there is moving it forward 80 steps, waiting for half a second, and then moving back 80 steps.

    The other good news is that the motor resets when the power goes off. I doubt VW do anything with the motor on start up, so I'm going to leave it, and work on the assumption it's in the neutral position.

    Next up will be reading the temperature sensor value in to the Arduino, and ordering one of the screens.

    I now have a pile of PC parts next to me, so time to sort that.
     
  9. sparrow Paid Member Paid Member

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    More progress this afternoon, I've now got a temperature reading as well.
    However, this has raised a problem. Reading the thermistor requires a voltage divider to work, which requires extra circuitry.
    I've not thought any further about the requirements for that.

    I've ordered the LCD as well, and have code to test that. Once that's working, I'll program in what the button presses do.
     
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  10. notenoughtime

    notenoughtime Moderator Moderator

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    Excellent progress
    Is 80 steps fully open or is that just so it's working?
     
  11. sparrow Paid Member Paid Member

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    I just used 80 steps as that's what Trev and Silvio tested as working. It appears to be pretty close, as the spring is pretty much fully compressed at this point.
     
  12. Golf_NP4 New Member

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    Very good job, from this point only need to write a nice software and a nice display :)
    Resting position is neutral position and VW controller does nothing on startup.
    On my controller on startup it drives the stepper motor quickly to 80 steps and back and monitor via a current sensor the current drawn from the TB6560 board and uses as referce to see if motor is working correctly. If current is below bench-tested values the motor is broken, if current is over bench-tested values the piston is stuck or motor in short-circuit

    The temp sensor I used a 3,3k pull-up resistor on the 5v and with water, ice, fire and thermometer find the response curve, if need I can help
     
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  13. sparrow Paid Member Paid Member

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    The code is now written, the display arrived today, but the spare headers haven't, so I can't do a final test. Hopefully tomorrow.

    The code basically reads the thermistor. If the temperature is low enough, it checks if the user is pressing a button.
    It then checks which button is being pressed, and moves the motor in that direction. I've only implemented the up and down buttons.
    The display shows the current temperature on the top line, and the Haldex percentage on the bottom row. You can go up 25%, 50%, 75% and 100%, and back down to 0%.
    You can't go up at 100%, or down at 0%.
    If you press the button and hold it, it will move every half a second. This also acts as a switch debounce mechanism.

    Thanks for the confirmation.

    That's more than we'll do, as we don't have a separate shield.

    That would be really helpful. :thumbup:


    I wanted to use the 3v3 supply for the thermistor reading, as it's more stable than the 5v supply, but unfortunately this display only works with 5v.
    In the documentation, the OEM controller shuts down when the oil goes over 100* Celsius, so I'm going to go with a slightly conservative 90* C.
     
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  14. notenoughtime

    notenoughtime Moderator Moderator

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    All sounds great :thumbup:
     
  15. Golf_NP4 New Member

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    I used the 5v for two reason:
    1-I have other inputs on same board and use the internal 5v reference
    2-Because I reused the stock plug and harness to give an OEM look under car I was missing of 1 wire so I linked 1 wire of the termistor on the rear diff ground and the other wire on the arduino analog input via the 3,3k pull-up

    Will send you data on the email

    If you send termistor ground on the board there is no problem otherwise need to do a bit of software filtering because on mine was slightly unstable until 11-12 C. I used to check oil temp every 500ms and do some filtering before update the value display

    Anyway great job, need to do a meeting with all these 4WD Golfs
     
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  16. sparrow Paid Member Paid Member

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    It's tested and working:

    [video=youtube_share;tzODtp5nT74]https://youtu.be/tzODtp5nT74[/video]

    This leaves us with a couple of issues:
    • How to build the voltage divider for the thermistor reading
    • Where to mount everything. Arduino needs to be near the thermistor, screen somewhere the driver can reach
     
  17. Golf_NP4 New Member

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    For the display you can use one with I2C interface so only 4 wires needed + 1 wire for the keyboard. On mine I used a shielded wire (type used for home alarm system) that have 2 x 0,50mm2 and 4 x 0,25mm2 with shield. Works good and no interference. The driver board is under rear seat, the arduino is in the tunnel in the handbrake area and display is in front of gear lever.

    Anyway great job, can I have one for my car? :thumbup:
     
  18. sparrow Paid Member Paid Member

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    Yeah, I've had a look for an I2C version but they seem to be a lot more. I'll have a proper look over the weekend.

    When it's finished, you're welcome to have one. :thumbup:
     
  19. sparrow Paid Member Paid Member

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  20. Golf_NP4 New Member

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    Alex, I used these for mine:
    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Serial-II...hash=item41b91bfbf3:m:miZzmmklToqoHiSqtwsBbcg

    Also is possible to find 16x2 display with I2C at very few euros

    Really need for the keyboard? Once the project is developed and running I think you only need 2 buttons and with 3 resistor soldered on the fly you can put buttons and display on the dashboard and arduino were you want

    This is my idea

    Have a nice weekend
     

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