Flywheel and clutch fitted. Whilst trawling my parts bins, I came across some 280mm Wilwood discs and also remembered I have the 4-pot Brembo calipers off the *rear* of the Touareg which are essentially Porsche 996 specs I believe I think the discs are too narrow so will have a look for some Ibiza Cupra-R which are 4x100 but 305mm diameter.......
Fitted gearbox today and the cutch slave cylinder Ran into an issue with the front bracket........it doesn't fit..... assumed a stock 8v GTi bracket would work but the starter motor bolt holes are not offset - they are directly opposite each other. Can any one advise the one I need? Heat shield first trim and test fit seems to work well
I had these same issues with mine,in the end i went with a toledo crossmember which is the same sort of thing as a Corrado one. As Duff said in the other thread,the bracket must fit the mount.I have a spare Ibiza/mk3 ABF mount but this will require a mk2 VR6 mount too fit it. Another thing to remember is that the VibraTechnics rear engine mount makes the engine sit lower at the rear and can be turned 180 degs if things do not line up but they are not exactly cheap.
Thanks guys. I do already have a vibratechnics rear mount...... ................ and a one-off special front mount made by JBS of Sheffield The mount can rotate and match the angle of the bracket as required.........
messing about with mounts wont make the 020 front bracket fit though, this is the problem as i say you need an 02a bracket as the bolt holes on the 020 one are wrong
Jon, thanks mate - yes I agree with you. I'm going to try a Mk3 valver bracket and go from there Thanks for the input.
Got a bit farther routing the massive battery cable through the car. Volt drop shouldn't be an issue!
Done some digging on the clocks/cluster and compared late Mk2 with Mk3 Golf versions. Turns out that the loom connecting the fuse box and the clocks (single plug) are almost identical. The main differences appear to be:- * Fuel consumption on Mk3s is computed in ECU - the signal is sent to clocks down one wire * Indicators on Mk3 are repeated left and right but Mk2 seem to be a single repeater for both I have hooked up an electronic speedo sender and it sends a signal to the Mk3 speedo down one wire Speed signal "loops thru" the Mk3 clocks on it's way to the ECU, whereas the Mk2 clocks generate a signal from the mechanical speedo head inside. The Omex ECU sends a tacho output which should be suitable to drive the clocks but depends if its a negative or positive signal - Omex can supply a converter however, it should be easy enough with a tranny and resistors. If the speedo sender isnt calibrated for the gearbox/tyre rolling radius, I believe the "speedo healer" black box is a worthy idea for simplicity. Got a few gauges lined up to add into the system but will be keeping these separate. Decided to replace the EGT sensor with a new K-type thermocouple probe and digital pyrometer - quicker to sort out than working out what signal the existing sensor spits out etc.
Good progress today..... Engine now "in" woop woop Loads of room between brake MC and cam belt cover......
Cheers - yes lots of work still to do Gear selector cables are too short (or the selector is too far back :/ ) hence the bracket can't bolt-up. I am still awaiting delivery of the G60 front engine bracket so can't fully check the rear bracket is correct. Now the engine's in, I can figure out where the ECU can be located (likely in glovebox), and finish the power wiring now battery's in the boot. Also got to mount up the FMIC, and figure out the pipework I need.
Looking great Foxy you'll need to mount the radiator and FMIC together really,the water pipes can sometimes dictate where everything can go as its all pretty tight and you need them to be sitting comfortably in their final position,then do the boost pipes. It all looks pretty easy and straight forward but its not that simple in real life and the 2 are very important parts of the working correctly.For example,i measured a boost pipe @ 70 degs,bought a special pipe for 23 then realised it didn't fit because my intercooler is tilted back approx 10 degs (meaning i need a 60 deg bend) Its a small detail but I think you'll not settle for less than perfect with this,so keep up the attention to details and you'll get it right in the end,plus you won't have to redo these things like I am.
Figuring out the pipe work is a pain! Just make sure you measure and work everything out. I wrote everything down (detailed), and ordered everything from ASH Morotsport - LINK I bought everything from them. Vacuum hoses, bends, alloy pipes and clamps. Great value but they do add up quickly!! My engine will be coming out again over the winter, as i really want to do everything properly and just tidy things up. Great work though Foxy
Yer I have bought from ASH before - I have their catalogue here in fact. Also may relocate washer bottle to the boot and ditch the rear tailgate nozzle.
ASH is brilliant. Im thinking of relocating mine to the boot to. Will you be running the standard airbox or a cone filter ? Mine is definitely suffering from heat soak when in traffic or when its hot. Im looking to fit a Polo/Ibiza airbox as they are a little smaller and should fit perfect
I think i'm going to run a cone but with a boxed-off area (was considering the whole area where the battery used to sit in front of the arch). I have a plan for getting cooler air in there too. May also relocate the front number plate and drill the hell out of the bumper to get more air in there too for the FMIC. The FMIC isn't massive but it's a Forge number that should be planty good enough for the BHP. The anticipation is building for the first start of the engine for a few reasons....... 1) The car it came out of was totalled and had the roof cut off 2) I've never heard it run 3) I'm using Omex management that will need dialling-in to the engine and sensors etc 4) I've rewired the Omex/OEM loom to remove brittle insulation to coil packs 5) 16V fuel pump and lines never run in this car yet ETC..........
ASH is good but to be honest,I have 1 x 90 deg hose from Silicon hose.com and its a slightly better/stiffer construction (my only problem is its blue and i want them all black now) but they are not available on ebay from the same vendor now :-( I've also been checking under bonnet engine temps for quite a few weeks now,the heat soak is quite something when you slow or stop for traffic. It also takes a long time to reduce them even when you get back "up to speed" which is a slight suprise. Got a Pholonic inlet manifold gasket to fit to mine now when i get the chance to do another few mods,i think they will make a difference when working together but I too am looking to remove my engine in the winter Rich (will chuck my Leon engine in to keep her running mind) but its still looking like a big over haul to iron out small things.
