Engine conversion decided

Discussion in 'Mk2' started by Dubber84, Oct 21, 2020.

  1. Dubber84

    Dubber84 Paid Member Paid Member

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    So I have posted a few threads on here asking for help and advice on what engine conversion options I have to put into my Mk2. And being that there is so many I found myself constantly changing my mind and going back and forth in what is best.

    so today I devoted my spare time in reaching out to a few conversion specialists and speaking with them and see what they had to offer.

    After several calls and speaking with many different people who have been there done this and know what’s what better than me I have finally decided what route I’m going down.

    It seems nowadays the most preferred conversion for the Mk2 is the very popular 1.8T route which is fine and I agree it offers great power and a reasonable price.

    however being that my car is only a 1.3 there would be a fewmore things that I would need to replace and upgrade. Nothing too drastic that it’s not possible but it would prolong the process and let’s not forget that the majority of the 1.8T engines available now have probably been put to the test which means if I was to go down this route it would be stupid not to rebuild the engine first to ensure it’s 100%!

    So with all said and done. I’ve now actually decided to just stick to the 1.3. and work with what I’ve got. This meaning, Im going to strip it all down have the whole engine completely re built along with a stage 2 head. Complimented by Shcrick cams, twin Webber carbs, 421 custom manifold with de cat and straight through exhaust.

    As for the brakes, Golf Mk2 16v discs and callipers up front with the rears converted to discs using MK4 callipers.

    Im gonna stiffen up the chassis with HR front rear anti roll bars along with full powerflex polybushes and KW 40 mm lowering kit.

    Going down this route will give the car a little bit more power as well as better stopping ability and great handling. But most importantly, it’s keeping in touch with what the car actually is. I understand why people swap their engines and if this was a GTI then I probably would too. But it’s not and I think by keeping it a 1.3 it will make it more appealing and also keep hold of its value for the future as it will be practically a standard car that’s been slightly tweaked to bring it up to date.

    If anyone else has any ideas or helpful tips that I could do to get more from the little engine. Then please feel free to comment.

    I’ll be sure to keep you all updated on the progress. Thanks
     
  2. dodgy

    dodgy Paid Member Paid Member

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    Megajolt ignition, really changed my mini 1000 that I built, mappable via laptop, does away with dizzy.
    Uses a ford edis system, and a small ecu, about the size of a deck of cards, needs a trigger wheel which was the most expensive bit for mine, but easy to wire 4 or 5 wires and could change settings in seconds.
    Was good with supercharger and normally aspirated, the distributor was always the Achilles heel on my supercharged minor, never could get it right, timing, weight, advance etc.
    Can also run shift lights from it.
    Could use bike carbs, custom manifold is quite simple.
    If decided to go injection at a later stage theres always megasquirt, was considering bike throttle bodies on the mini, but because siamese ported wasn't so straightforward.
     
    Last edited: Oct 21, 2020
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  3. dodgy

    dodgy Paid Member Paid Member

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  4. Savagesam

    Savagesam Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    If I had a 1.3 I’d find a crashed 1.0T Skoda or something and put one of them into it. Super reliable, cheap to run, faster than most standard cars in a car that light.
     
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  5. 1990

    1990 Paid Member Paid Member

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    A few years ago I would say you were crazy but now I half agree with your plan.

    I think with your car being in such good condition that it will always fetch a premium price regardless of the engine.

    I would work out the cost of rebuilding/modifying the 1.3 engine against conversions like the 1.6 16v, ABF, 1.8T and even 2.0TSFI then balance that against what you want from the car. Do you want a reliable commuter, a fast road car, occasional track car or a tidy original car?
     
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  6. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    for that little bit extra you could hunt down a mk3/polo ABD 1.4 block, will look the same on the outside just with that little bit more torque
     
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  7. Dubber84

    Dubber84 Paid Member Paid Member

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    Being that the car will only be used in the summer and only at weekends I’m not too fused to have 200+ horses ready and waiting. I think (IMO) that the majority of cars nowadays that are soon to be or are already a future classic then the more they have been changed the less they hold there value. However that being said there is a fine line between subtle effective mods like upgrading brakes/suspension to bring it into the 21st century to then go over the top and drop a 1.8T lump with bigger turbo racing clutch etc etc. Original will always be preferred and after all old skool is cool
     
  8. Dubber84

    Dubber84 Paid Member Paid Member

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    I also have a question if anyone is in the know or familiar with the NZ engine. I didn’t know that the Mk2 1.3 engine had an ECU, which I recently found out and now I’m trying to find out if I was to get de cat the exhaust would it cause any problems with the ECU? As with modern cars if you de cat the exhaust you then have to re map it to stop the engine light coming on. Is this the case for a 30 year old Mk2? Also does my car have oxygen sensor before and after the car? Thanks
     
  9. EZ_Pete

    EZ_Pete Forum Junkie

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    What year is the car? 1990?
     
  10. Dubber84

    Dubber84 Paid Member Paid Member

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    it’s a 1991 NZ engine code
     
  11. EZ_Pete

    EZ_Pete Forum Junkie

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    Dubber84 and 1990 like this.
  12. 1990

    1990 Paid Member Paid Member

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  13. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    yeah can bin off the cat no problem just need to keep the lambda in the decat pipe. bit of a rare beasty the MPI ones over here
     
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  14. EZ_Pete

    EZ_Pete Forum Junkie

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    I'll post a proper reply in your 'newbie' thread. :thumbup:
     
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  15. Dubber84

    Dubber84 Paid Member Paid Member

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    I’ve found a reconditioned cylinder head for my 1.3 NZ, so instead of going down the route of striping my complete engine down I’m going to send this off for a port and polish along with the Schrick cam and lifters then find an ABD block to match it up with. That along with a set of twin Webber carbs, 4 branch and straight pipe should do just the job! I’ve found some Green stuff pads and vented discs for my model, would these along with a rear disc conversion be enough stopping power? I don’t think I’ll be adding no more than 10/20bhp so I would hope so.....
     
  16. Tristan

    Tristan Paid Member Paid Member

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    The rear does so little that any pads will do, even Nige (Pinder Wagen) has standard gti rear brakes on his 400+ bhp track mk2.
    Though EBC aren't rated that highly.

    Definitely try build a complete engine before you take your own out.
     
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  17. Dubber84

    Dubber84 Paid Member Paid Member

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    Instead of combining my 1.3 NZ head with a 1.4 ABD block would a 1.6 AEE block fit my 1.3 head?
     
  18. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    I'm not sure on that one, but I dont think so?
     
  19. Dubber84

    Dubber84 Paid Member Paid Member

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    So with us being in a second lockdown it’s given me some time to do a little more digging and research on the 1.3 NZ engine that my import has.

    And after speaking to several people who have the know how and knowledge of these multipoint injection engines it seems that if I was to ahead and my original plan of fitting a 1.4 ABD block with a ported and polished head, Schrick cams and 4 branch manifold then I would need to overcome the problem with not being able to get the ECU mapped for it to run properly.

    I’ve reached out far and wide for help on this and it seems I’ve come to a dead end. Unfortunately the one guy who did offer a mapped chip for the NZ engines is no longer trading and everyone else tells me that the only way round this is to change the head along with the ECU and engine loom thats from the Polo GT. But doing by doing this I will still only end up with around 90+ bhp and not forgetting taking away what I wanted to keep the original 1.3 engine.

    So with all that said and done I’ve now decided that for the time being I am just going to stick with what I have keeping it all standard apart from the de cat and exhaust system. Then around this time next year I am going to have the car fully converted to run the Tesla electric set up. I’ve already spoken with ECC and this I think is the best way forward. It’s more economical, more powerful and let’s be honest the future. Yes it’s expensive, not as fun and I won’t have the sound track of an engine to hear. But in the long run it will save me money as well as the planet.

    so there it is people. I have 12 months to go to get all the body work sorted source my preferred wheels along with the suspension and brake set up I need so it will be all ready and waiting for it’s EV conversion.
     
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  20. abf"d mk1 Paid Member Paid Member

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    I doubt it will save the planet...
     
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