In all seriousness now I've thought about it, swapping the loom may be the way to go. Lets go back to your original problem. You changed the clutch cable and this all started. I suspect the problem is from a wiring fault you disturbed when fitting the cable. There is one last thing I don't think we've mentioned. Have you tried unplugging the knock sensor in case thats at fault and continually retarding the timing?
I can't get near it, it's on fire..... Actually, I don't think I've tried that yet. I suppose the knock sensor wouldn't kick in until after the first few seconds either. Certainly worth a shot - if that doesn't work I'll have to drag a spare loom out of the cupboard and stick that in!
I give you 7 days to correct this problem, otherwise I'm going to do the only humane thing and come and dispose of it for you!!
I'm going to dispose of it myself soon, if it doesn't start playing ball..... Just tried unplugging the knock sensor, no difference. I did do something else though, which has me thinking... Wile diddling with various things I went to start it, WITHOUT remembering to turn the fuel pump on. It ran for the same length of time as it has been doing, and died in pretty much exactly the same way.... a "fuel cut" kind of way, instead of the ignition cut it was doing before when the loom was cut up. The fuel pump is a BMW 530i in-tank (pressure , no separate lift) pump, dunked in a saucepan of petrol on the garage floor. Flow and return lines going straight to the fuel rail. I know the pump is good, because it runs the beemer engine without a problem. And AFAIK it runs the same sort of pressure, about 3-3.5 bar after the FPR. Hmmmm. I can't take the pump out of the other car to try it, because the screws are mullered and I want to keep the other car as a runner at least. And I'm not forking out 100 for a Digi pump on the off-chance. It might be time to see if I can borrow a pressure guage?
I have experenced simalar problems. where you disturbed the wiring, have a look at the connections and the wiring that goes from the actual crimped connector through the loom. 99% of electrical faults are poor connections/grounds. If you can test the continuity of the loom that will remove any doubt. I know it only runs for a few seconds, but if you can put your hand on the loom and get someone to start it, whilest you give it a wiggle, you can narrow down the aera you are looking in (if it stalls faster than normal) hope this helps.
Ok so you're running the pump outside the car, presumably straight off the battery. This would suggest that the injectors are at fault. Check the wiring on the end of the fuel rail and at pin 2 (2nd in form the right, bottom row as you look at the unplugged ECU plug) as all four injectors are switched by a single earth at the ECU, they are fed with a permanent 12v from the fuel pump relay feed. Might be worth putting a multimeter across the injector rail earth and watching what happens. It may be the pump that would one hel of a coincidense for it to go just as you change the clutch cable with no warning.
That's what I thought - it was 100% fine before that, and the BMW pump is fine. I'll have a look at the injector wiring tomorrow, and check that it's getting a constant 12v and a pulsed earth when cranked.......
I`ve seen wires broken inside the sheaths before with no obvious external marks, they will pass current for a few seconds before giving up. Got to be worth swapping the loom over considering how much work you`ve put in already. Can`t believe you havent burned it yet! Is this the cheap one you bought from the auctions?
just realised, don't take the pin 2 thing as gospel as it depends what version of digifant it is. If you can be arsed count the pins.
Golden - I was going to start just by checking right at the fuel rail connection, and if there's a problem there then work back! I have a pinout diagram, so no problem there - cheers! Keith - Yup, it's the auction cheapie! Shame, because it's Mot'd and taxed as well - was driving perfectly for a couple of months till this happened. Going to do a few more checks, then condemn the loom and replace it with another one I got from SiVWW a while back. If that doesn't work I'm going to get an oxygen sensor welded into the downpipe, scrap the whole management system, and run it all on Digi 1. I can make up my own new loom for that easily enough, and I got a G60 ECU and CO pot from a german for 13 Euros the other day......
Just a reminder Christ that the CO pot only adjusts idle CO, once off idle is all down to the ECU map.
Aye, but it basically self-adjusts to stoich via the MAP sensor and the O2 sensor, doesn't it? Except at WOT, which I'm hoping to tune roughly with an adjustable regulator...... At least it should run, hopefully - it'll only be a testbed for the forced induction 6A/KR I'll be putting together when I eventually get around to it. But I'm determined to get the bugger running on the existing system anyway, I've never been beaten by a car problem yet.... although there's a first time for everything!
That's even better..... i doubt it'll run perfectly without a proper setup/chip, but if it comes to it I may end up giving it a go!
have you heard of sns tuning?? they can do all kinds of weird chips for g60 turbos and the like i suggest you visit the g60 forum on vwvortex lot of info
Jup, I've swapped a few emails with one of the blokes that own it - very helpful, they can burn a chip for whatever you want. Just started doing an "off the shelf" one for 16v turbos as well.....
yeah i run their chip with ford mustang 30lb inj..theyre pretty good ive tried about 6 or 7 now for the price of 1
bargain! I was thinking about it actually, and the G60 boys on the vortex somtimes run a belt bypassing the charger if it's blown (on the standard chip), so it would probably run the 8v perfectly alright if it comes to that..... if only I could drag myself out to the garage to work on the bitch.....
I think it depends on what you're calling a "CO pot". There are 2 units that look very similar, one is what I would call a "CO pot" and the other is an air bleed. On earlier Digifant systems there is an air bleed which is integral with the airflow meter. This bleeds air past the meter and by adjusting it you can change what the ECU uses as a basis for the rest of the map. A bit like changing the control pressure on a K Jet. On later Digifants the CO pot is an electrical device bolted onto or in the airflow meter. It's called a pot because it's a potentiometer, all it does it trim the airflow sensor signal to adjust idle CO. Once the ECU detects the throttle has moved off idle it uses the map and lambda. Im not saying youre wrong Steve, just that it depends what version of Digifant youve got as I think there were 3 different types over the production of the G60.
