Forged 06A 1.8T Engine Build Pictorial Guide, (Now Mapped for running in :) )

Discussion in '1.8 & 1.8T' started by sambo, Jun 21, 2012.

  1. sambo Paid Member Paid Member

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    Cheers Mike, oh there it shall be! Gota beat my own personal best 28.1sec i think
     
  2. sambo Paid Member Paid Member

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    Oh sorry i got you now Dirko sealant, iv just applied as i thought best and took care that none/very little spills inside and risk getting torn off, i think it will be ok as it had plenty of time to set properly

    Didnt use strech gauge just recomended torque values and torque wrench
     
  3. brutalmk2-16v Forum Member

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    :thumbup:

    Re torque values, requiring to retorque in order to achieve correct values, i've read somewhere that has to do with their(ARP) new assembly lube
    but anyway, have fun with that road beast
     
  4. sambo Paid Member Paid Member

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    Think i shall be running the engine in next w-end as the whole car is now assembled and drivable

    [​IMG]

    What is ppl opinion how many miles to do on Millers Mineral 10/40 running oil before i drop and change it?

    And which oil would you put in next? Mineral again or semi-synth?
     
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  5. Matt82

    Matt82 Forum Addict

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    There are so many opinions to read regarding running in. Are you going for the conventional soft method or the thrash it hard method?

    Given the aim of the game is to set the new rings and the honed bores, id do a few sumps of mineral
     
  6. sambo Paid Member Paid Member

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    Eay driving for 30-50 miles i think no more then 4.5k rpm and wont labour the engine, plenty of reving up and then letting off getting lots of vacuum in there then drop oil

    Mineral again? 100-200 miles going up to 5.5-6k rpm Drop oil

    Semi synth 200 miles 6-7k rpm drop oil

    Fully synth all the way to rev limit 8-8.k rpm and give it death :)
     
  7. brutalmk2-16v Forum Member

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    Sounds good but i would use mineral again in your 3rd step so is going to be 50miles mineral,100miles mineral,200 miles mineral and then full synth.

    I actually do 4-5 mineral changes in my engines' bed in procedures before i move on to the choice of my oil
     
  8. sambo Paid Member Paid Member

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    Off to ebay for some Millers finest mineral
     
  9. Matt82

    Matt82 Forum Addict

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  10. sparrow Paid Member Paid Member

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    Like this.
    It's how I broke in my last engine, and it was the healthiest engine I had. It was a Stealth Turbo, and even they were impressed with how little smoke came out the exhaust.
     
  11. brutalmk2-16v Forum Member

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    I use this method too but i do the frequent mineral changes as well
     
  12. tshirt2k

    tshirt2k Forum Junkie

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    ^^ yea I did a sort of above version. My engine sips very little oil.
     
  13. sambo Paid Member Paid Member

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    Grey area this

    Often i hear coments like this from reputable engine builders

    "The purpose of the "break-in" procedure is to GRADUALLY wear down the "high spots" on components such as rings, piston skirts, cylinder walls, bearings and races, etc. after a motor is fitted with new items. ALL machined parts are imperfect to a certain degree and therefore have "high" and "low" areas which must be mated to those that they roll or rub against to achieve a good running fit. Problems can arise however in the process because the mere act of "rubbing down" the high spots creates abnormally high friction. Friction creates heat. Heat creates expansion. Expansion reduces running clearances and increases friction. More friction, more heat, more expansion... Pretty soon you can see that you are rubbing off MORE than high spots on each part resulting in premature part wear (LOW spots). This is what happens when a motor is broken in too aggressively. You end up with a motor that, at the very least, has abnormally LARGE running clearances throughout. Thus you now have an unnecessarily shortened remaining life for your "new" motor accompanied by reduced performance. If the motor is really abused during early "new life" running, the tight initial clearances may get closed up completely due to heat and expansion and the rotating or reciprocating parts will SEIZE. So how to control this "running in and mating" of moving parts becomes the question... "
     
  14. brutalmk2-16v Forum Member

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    I'll give some rough pointers here.

    -As far as I am aware the automotive companies run in their new engines on the dyno. They do say though that you have to cover some mileage without much load with a new car.
    -Friction creates heat which in turn creates expansion yes but you already have a clearance in your parts to accept that expansion and the clearances that manufacturers give i'm sure they have taken into consideration your points.
    -piston rings need just 20-40 mins to bed in.

    So, if you are going to have a bearing spun or a piston ring broken that will be a result of bad assembly of the motor. If you blueprinted the engine, as I hope you did, you are not going to have any problems.

    Anyway that's my take on this matter
     
  15. sambo Paid Member Paid Member

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    Engine was built right so i have no worries there :)
     
  16. brutalmk2-16v Forum Member

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    what about this ?? -> you have built a new engine with modified parts which obviously requires map calibration.In order to sort that calibration you need some steady state tuning correct? but you can't do that before you run in the engine. So how are going actually going to take that run in process?
     
  17. sambo Paid Member Paid Member

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    Gota plan for that one in place

    I already have a map for my 2.0l 20vt stroker engine prior to removal and build of this one

    Map will be off in places mainly to do with fueling and the way turbo will build boost due to less capacity but then again exh housing is smaller so it should be very similar

    I have not installed schrick cams tho so that will affect things

    In fact once i have removed my stroker engine i had bog standard 1.8t running on old map and has done for few hundred miles without issues

    I will run wideband gauge and trim off fuelling just to make sure its not running rich to prevent bore wash

    Once engine has 100 miles or so it will be ready for map to be adjusted up to 3/4 throttle or so and then it will be fine to put few more miles and finish running it in after which final mapping can be done
     
  18. brutalmk2-16v Forum Member

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    Sounds good. Make sure you get some vids up of the beast [:D]
     
  19. GVK

    GVK Paid Member Paid Member

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    Good work Sam, don't throw away that VR6 lol
     
  20. sambo Paid Member Paid Member

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    Engine not going anywhere gary, all yours :)
     

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