I think it was running a rather daft small pulley that happened to be on the charger. Would either 65mm or 68mm sound familiar? G60 pulley sizes are no longer fresh in my head! The greatest MAP I saw logged from MS was 160kPa on the rolling road. http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?202362-1-9-16v-G60-on-MegaSquirt-RR-result-6-7-10/page2
If you need to start from scratch engine wise with anything other than the KR may aswel stick with it even if you blow it up you havent lost anything, cant wait to see this finished to be honest been watching it for a while now.
What an awesome car! I can't believe the price of those jacking point panels..but i think it's well worth it to keep the car as original as possible. You've got a good collection of trim too, very jealous! Looking forward to seeing some updates.
I've been trying to accelerate progress on this car lately. It has been sat neglected for a long time due to other commitments and projects. Fixing the bodged 'repair' behind the fuel filler area When I had the car painted I didn't have the space or experience to do welding and bodywork repairs, so I left that work to the body shop. I regret that now, as later down the line I realised I was very unhappy with how they'd 'repaired' the area of the inner quarter panel skin behind and around the fuel filler area. I don't have any 'in progress' pictures I'm afraid, but the gist of it is that I supplied a section of an inner quarter panel I cut from another MK2 (actually it was almost a complete MK2 quarter, shown on an earlier page). What they did was to cut out the required area and then simply tacked it (not even seam welded) on top of the existing damaged area, with all rot still in place. I decided it was just not good enough.This meant that I had to painstakingly remove that panel, then remove the rot, then tidy up the repair panel again, then weld it back in properly -- and I had to do this while making an effort not to damage the fresh paint on the outer quarter panel. By some miracle I succeeded. I lined the cavity between the outer and inner quarter panels, around the filler cap aperture, with heat-proof plumber's mats to protect against welding heat. As said before I didn't think to take images of the bodge as I unpicked it all. But here's some of the crap metal I cut out. I also removed the filler neck retainer bracket. This was rotten and had been repaired with some steel folded over it. With all bad metal cut out properly and neatly, and then the repair section tidied up, I carefully welded it into place properly. It'll win no beauty contest because I had to weld with really low heat (and with plenty of insulation material shoved inside) to reduce chances of overheating any paint. It's a hell of a lot better than what was there before, just metal tacked over rot. Obtained a couple of filler neck brackets from VW. The spare one is in case my other MK2 shell needs one. Plug welded in place Metal cleaned up and gritted, phosphoric acid surface treatment applied, then plenty of Epoxy Mastic 121. Starting to apply layers of under-body stone chip protection. Area finished, as it looks now with further applications of under-body seal and LC3U body colour. After doing this, the only area on the outside that is going to need paint and a bit of filler is the area under the actual filler flap, which should be simple to take care of. To be continued. Lots more to come; currently sorting through lots of images and generally swearing at Photobucket for being such a POS.
Slowly getting there Trev. Lovely car. What do you mean by "gritted" and what is the phosphoric acid for? I have the same issues in that area and what your doing looks like it will stop it pretty much permanantly.
Ah. Yep. Basically just mean that the metal is 'keyed' as much as possible using some very coarse sandpaper to try to ensure adhesion with the Epoxy Mastic 121. The Epoxy Mastic is specifically supposed to be used direct to metal, so a rough surface is good. The phosphoric acid based stuff to then use to clean and prepare the bare metal is this item: http://www.rust.co.uk/sp1030-phos-kleen-b/p496555 The reason why the heater is positioned facing into the wheel tub is because I did this repair recently during the colder months and, as I discussed in another thread where I asked for help about this, I had awful trouble with the underseal causing 'flashing' of the Epoxy Mastic 121. Basically, it would soften the Epoxy Mastic and lift it from the metal. It seemed that, unlike in the hot summer (when I'd successfully done the rest of the chassis without this problem whatsoever), it was now too cold for the solvents to evaporate from the underseal fast enough (I can only assume?) and it would flash the Epoxy no matter how well I had applied the Epoxy and no matter how thinly I applied the underseal. So, when you're doing work like this and especially when applying underseal, do ensure the ambient temperature is very warm. Scheduling the work for a hot summer is ideal! I'm very happy to help and advise where I can if you're about to do something similar. I'm far from an expert; I've just learned through having done the whole project totally backwards and through making many stupid cockups along the way!
Epoxy Mastic 121 Application I completed the removal of all factory under-body seal, still preserving as much original zinc coating on the metal as possible. The Epoxy Mastic 121 is supposed to be applied straight to keyed metal so I wasn't going to apply fresh zinc primer anywhere, but it's nice to preserve what's originally there. As shown in these images I had already used up the remainder of some light-coloured EP121 to do a first coat with over most of the underside, in this instance hand-brushed. Next moved onto a brand new pack of black Epoxy Mastic 121. Mix A into B, 50:50. Needed to use thinner because this is being sprayed. Recommended amount of thinner is no more than 15%, but I probably exceeded that a little as there was no way it was going to play nicely in my spray gun otherwise. With EP121 you have to use the supplied thinner. I don't know what the difference is. The big can of standard paint thinners I have is just for cleaning up. Bought a relatively low-cost paint gun. Also bought a little inline water filter. And apply.
Seam sealer I'm not sure how necessary this really is considering the whole lot is going to be coated again with the original VW D003500 under-body stone chip protection, but it's probably good to ensure all seams have a good initial coating of sealant by hand first. And I had the can kicking about anyway.
Applying VW D003500 My big tip regarding this stuff is buy brand new cans of it and use it immediately. Some of my cans I bought from VW myself so they were well within date (initially). Another batch of cans I bought from eBay as cheap NOS, and they had gone past their shelf date. The problem with it is that it should be in a fairly liquid form but it congeals in the can very quickly and you can't really use it. This was all applied during the very hot summer. I'm glad about that now because you do need the ambient temperature to be warm so that the stuff dries off speedily and the coating underneath doesn't get flashed. If I do this kind of work every again I'll ensure I spray it in several thinner coats next time. I got away with it this time round as the air was very warm, but when applying it too think you do risk damaging the coating on the metal I found. It's not a neat uniform surface texture, particularly because of the uneven consistency of product I had in the cans and partly because I actually wanted it to look gloopy and sloshy in some places just like the original VW application did!
Body colour From Autopaints Brighton (http://www.autopaintsbrighton.co.uk/) I obtained a can of LC3U Dark Burgundy Metallic to match the vehicle colour, suitable thinner, and 1K lacquer. Autopaints Brighton are very helpful on the phone. The D003500 seems to overpaint well.
Wow Trev. This is looking epic. Id love to do the same with my Mk2 one day. Although mine is pretty solid underneath, I bet, like any Mk2, its hiding some rust somewhere under there. Fancy doing mine
Going this far may seem mad to some but I've always wanted to get a MK2 to this standard. My inspiration has always been G60 ONE, an amazing Oak Green MK2 featured in Golf+ (or just The Golf, whatever it was back then) over a decade back. The only picture I quickly found of it on t'interweb right now is this little one. After seeing that I always had to have a MK2 that was mint on the top and on the bottom, as that car was. The next step is to get the shell back down onto a dolly, then wheel the chassis out and wash it down and polish it thoroughly. It has now got an awful coat of dust which includes metal shavings, so I want to get it back to that "fresh from body shop" stage. Then I'll be even more motivated to finish it! Also in the meantime I paid a visit to Hotgolf (Martin) over in South Wales. Martin disassembled and serviced the G60 Syncro gearbox, transfer box and rear differential. In fact he had already rebuilt the gearbox in the past, but I was worried that I'd damaged it from storing it dry, so he disassembled and checked it again (and I believe he replaced one or two minor parts that were indeed corroded). I'm extremely grateful and thankful to Martin for the work he does. I've learned my lesson about storing engine parts properly!
Yeah just drop it off, no worries. As you can see from the post dates, I'll need about eight years if that's okay.
lol I bet you can't wait till its finished. Imagine that smile on your face once its drivable Well worth the wait.
In the meantime, pulled all these out of storage to sort through them to pick out the best 8K unit ready for the Syncro... There aren't actually many complete working units here; maybe two or three at a push. Trouble is that the ICs are custom VDO parts so the PCBs can only be repaired by donating chips between them. Should have an 8K unit for each MK2 though.
Wow amazing work going on here. That floor repair looks perfect! wish i had the space for a roll over spit
Cheers for the info mate. I like that, so will get some ordered up. The underneath is the only thing im skimping on. We had a good look and, except for the exhaust hangers which will be done, its very solid. No cracks in the underseal etc etc so will leave it as it is.
