4 ohms could well just be a bad connection between your meter and the valve, or an inaccurate meter. Does it hum/vibrate OK when the ignition is switched on? (Not with the engine started, just the ignition on)
It does vibrate, but I don't know if it is ok. The resistance i 4 ohms both at the ECU connector and at the valve itself. But what makes me think it is faulty is that when I disconnect it the rpms stop playing and stay firm at 950 (when the engine is hot).
That would be worth doing anyway if you can get a cheap one from the junkyard, always handy to have a spare. Make sure you've checked everywhere for vacuum leaks first though. The easiest way to do it is to take an unlit blowtorch and blow it over all the vacuum/intake pipes and joints when the engine is running, if there is a vacuum leak anywhere then you'll hear the engine note change.
I checked it in the dictionary. I do not think that I have one handy. Is there another way? I checked all hoses for cracks and replaced two or three that seem cracky.
Any gas that will burn will do - you can use carb cleaner or WD40 as well, but they are both flammable and could cause a fire. And carb cleaner will strip paint, WD40 will make a mess!
I will try to find something by the end of the week. It looks like there is no more overfueling, but I do not feel like celebrating yet. I have disconnected the ISV and the car runs ok without it, does not stall and the RPMs do not play. It starts a little bit dificult when cold, but for now it is ok. I could not look for a used ISV today, but I will try to find one during the week. Do you think that it is a problem to drive with the ISV disconnected a couple of days? Today my crappy car made me replace a brake line that started leaking. I just finished bleeding the brakes and the radiator started leaking. I do not know what else to expect. I should probably use some sealing additive for coolant. Is it a good idea? A friend of mine told he had to replace his water pumo after using the additive.
You can use a radiator sealant OK, but I'd make sure you flush the system first - if there is a partial blockage anywhere the sealant will make it worse. You can drive without the ISV for as long as you want - a lot of people take them off completely. It just makes it harder to run from cold.
surely you should be able to blow through the ISV when its supposed to be activatd i.e. with power on to it?
I will probably flush it tomorrow and add the sealant. I wonder should I bother to do that because it is leaking heavily. Can the additive seal a big leak? Should I change the radiator?
Sometimes it'll work and sometimes it won't - try the cheap option first! Give it a week or so to see if it works before you change the radiator.
Add a bottle of radiator flush and run it for a while, then drain it. Then run a water hose through all the openings you can find to flush out all the old coolant and rust/scale that the bottle of flush will have loosened.
I drove my car today, and actually used it to get something done. This the first time since december 1st. Special thanks to TheSecondComing - thank you very much for all the help and advice. I can not say in words how grateful I am to you. I flushed the system today and added the sealant and now there are no leaks. When I added the sealant, I managed to clog the coolant reservoir , but then I flushed it and now everything is fine. My next tasks are to replace a CV boot, to clean the gearbox ( first gear sometimes is hard to engage), and dismantle front right door(both the door and the window do not open right now). But I will not start doing any of these until next week, because the car is drivable right now and I want to relax a bit and enjoy it. I am afraid, though, that next week I will start asking for help with my new assignments. Again, thank you.
