Golf mk2 GTI 8v to 1.8t AGU, mk4 dash and wiring Updated 13/02/11

Discussion in 'Members Gallery' started by Kav1187, Dec 19, 2007.

  1. Tom GTI New Member

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    right cool thanks and im using a 02j gearbox if that helps you?
     
  2. Kav1187 Forum Member

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    The 02j is a mk4 gearbox...I think you'll have to make a custom gearbox mount for it. This is why I fitted the 02s (with 02j bellhousing), as it's 6 speed and fits straight in using the mk3 mounts.
     
  3. Mjj4 Forum Member

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    I saw this thread a few months ago as i am just starting a MK2 PD Tdi build and intend on using the whole loom, dash, air con etc... so just like yours but tdi and will have to use the 02m 6 speed box.

    Anyway wanted to ask 2 things:

    WHY ARE YOU SELLING THIS BEAUTY!!!

    and did you splice the mk2 electric mirrors, windows and central locking into the mk4 fusebox?

    You are an insperation though Kav1187, I will start my build thread next week and hope you will still be around for your knowledge even if you do sell your red mk2 (which you really shouldn't!!!!)

    Cheers
    Mjj4
     
  4. Kav1187 Forum Member

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    Mjj4, I sold this baby back in April to a friend of mine (Pics at the end of the post :( )

    Your conversion sounds awesome - please PM me a link to it when you get the thread together so I can keep an eye on your progress.

    If you're fitting the 02m gearbox then you'll need to weld the gearbox mount 'cup' on the subframe further back and fabricate/buy a new mount. I had to do this on the syncro. I bought the Dutch Build mount to save time...they explain what needs to be done here too...

    http://dutchbuild.com/index.php/en/...ox-and-engine-mounts/02m-gearbox-mount-detail

    Can an 02m be fitted to a 2wd vehicle? I thought they were just for 4x4 but I'm probably wrong.

    To answer your second question first - I had a separate fuse box that I ran straight from the battery to the passenger footwell. There was a 30A relay in between which meant that the electrics connected to this auxiliary fuse box only came on when the key was turned. I used this fuse box to power the sun visor monitors, electric mirrors, electric windows (Separate MK2 wiring for both) and any other 'external' connections. This saved me having to splice the Mk4 loom when adding new gadgets. I did have pictures of it somewhere but I can't seem to find any of them :( I really wanted to use the mk4 window switches to control the mk2 windows, but it's a different system that uses hall senders to sense when the EW motors are turning. When they stop turning, it stops sending a current to the motor. I never did get my head round it so just used the mk2 EW setup.

    The central locking was a tricky one but I got to the bottom of it just before I sold the car. I actually used the mk4 central locking wiring, but wired it up to aftermarket (maplins 20 jobbie) central locking actuators. So I was able to use the mk4 remote key fob to lock/unlock the car. This meant that the alarm worked too :) What's more...if you wire the boot light switch to work with the mk4 loom, not only can you have a boot light, but it will also set the alarm off if the boot is opened when the car is locked :)

    Notice they have blue/green wires coming out of them (this is what I refer to in my wiring schema as 'blue motor' and 'green motor')

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    Here's how I wired it. The colours might be different in your loom but I'm pretty sure the layout will be the same. My theory behind soldering the 'locked position' to 'ground' was so that the alarm was activated when the car was locked. This may or may not have been necessary, but it all worked as it should :) Where it says 'to door switch' this wire connects to the mk2 switch that activates the interior light when the door is opened.

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    To answer your first question second - I am half way through my Syncro build, I've got the donor car on the driveway and wanted to buy a more 'sensible' car as a daily. So...much as it pained me, the red golf had to go.

    It went to a good home though - sold it to my mate Russ...not sure what his name is on the forums but he helped me a lot with putting the golf together and he's given me a lot of time with the syncro build too.

    This is the replacement...

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    Last edited: Jan 6, 2013
  5. Kav1187 Forum Member

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    Anyhow...lets finish off this thread with the changes I made to it before I sold it...


    Here's a really early pic - one when I first got it on the road and had to get the standard exhaust patched up to stop it leaking fumes where it met the mk4 AGU downpipe.

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    Next job was to replace the old sunroof seal. It had all sorts of nasty stuff growing on it and it looked unsightly

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    The birds loved my car

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    Got the polishing kit out...

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    New seal in place

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    Old and new

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    I noticed the wind deflector and guides were looking a little worn, so gave them a coat of paint. I ran out of red so silver had to do because the next days forecast wasn't so good :lol:

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    Gave it a quick clean and polish and used boiled linseed oil for the first time to shine the bumpers..and rubber seals...and grille...and anything black :lol: It's amazing stuff!

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    Then I came to the realisation that my 12" sub was taking up far too much space in my boot and with a couple of big charity walks coming up, I needed to be able to load the car up with kit. I had to improvise a better solution...

    Out came the spare tyre along with the long thread that held it in place

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    The plan was to make a fibreglass sub that fitted in the spare wheel well. This was the first time I'd used fibreglass so don't follow my steps below if you are thinking of doing the same. Get advice off the tinternet before trying it as there are better ways of doing it.

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    MDF to go on top..

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    Sound deadening below the sub

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    I also built a false floor to go over the sub but as it was all rushed, I didn't get to take pictures. The amps were screwed to the back of the rear seats so I had the whole boot free. Perhaps I can get Russ to send me some pics of it.
     
    Last edited: Jan 6, 2013
  6. Kav1187 Forum Member

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    I then decided that the fuel tank straps looked horrible when behind the car so I got some new ones and painted them up...

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    Soooo....then I got sick of my saggy roof lining. It was sagging at the back and this made me sad.

    I initially got some black trim clips from Halfords and plugged them through the roof lining. They held well and tidied it up, but I wanted it to look a bit better...

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    It started falling apart so my idea was to make a fibreglass mould of it and then make a new headlining out of fibreglass. Stupidly I didn't realise that fibreglass is

    ridiculously sticky and by the time it dried, it wasn't going to come apart. At least the roof lining had strength in it with the fibreglass behind it.

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    The fibreglass acted as a sturdy backing, so I filled in the holes I'd made with the trim clips...

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    The old foam had to come off in order to stick the new vinyl covering. This is a sticky task but best performed with a brush

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    I had a lot of filling to do with the hot glue gun

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    Time for the fun part...

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    I had to glue the vinyl around the edges of the sunroof (as per original design). This was reinforced by the inner sunroof seal.

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    It was cold when I did the fibreglassing (February :roll: ) so the fibreglass warped in a couple of places. The seal saved the day here

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    The sunroof needed doing too. I stripped the bottom cover out of the car and took off all the old material.

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    The sunroof is a tight fit, so had to take the foam backing off the edges of the vinyl

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    Used spare foam to fill the holes so that they are not visible when the vinyl is glued in place.

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    Pretty hot huh?
     
    Last edited: Jan 6, 2013
  7. Kav1187 Forum Member

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    Last few jobs were to install these beauties...(sorry for size/quality...couldn't find them on my PC so took them off facebook)

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    And then came the sad day when I had to say goodbye. I spent a solid week cleaning, polishing, dusting and telling myself I did the right thing...

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    Russ taking it for a spin for the first time....took his breath away

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    Never seen such a huge grin on someone's face

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    I couldn't quite let go...

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  8. Mjj4 Forum Member

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    Wow thanks for the reply! I had to read through it several times to absorb it all! What you have done with the fusebox's is similar to what i was thinking and well done with the central locking! i was thinking of a more primitive approach with the air pump central locking connected to the mk4 central locking module but i may re-think my ideas!

    The Range Rover is very nice so i can almost see why you sold the mk2 haha!

    All of the work you done on your mk2 you have done to such a high standard and its very individual, you should be proud of yourself!

    Have you got a build thread for your synrco?

    You can get 02m 2wd gearboxes they come on the 6speed tdi golfs, they are the same bell housing as the 4motion one but without the outlet for the prop obviously.

    Oh and as you are using the 02m box on the syncro have you sorted driveshafts? I am led to believe fabia vrs shafts fit in a narrow track mk2 with vr6 or sililar hubs. Or were you planning on getting standard 02m shafts shortened?

    Cheers
    Mjj4
     
  9. Kav1187 Forum Member

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    Thank you for your kind words :) I tried to do things as 'properly' as possible. There were things I wasn't happy with and will do slightly differently in the syncro build. Overall I got the car looking and working exactly how I wanted it to and it really was a pleasure to drive, a rocket when you put your foot down.

    I'm guessing your car already has air central locking? In which case I suppose you could probably use my wiring schema but connect the 'lock/unlock inputs' to the driver side actuator so that it unlocks the rest of the doors when the driver door is unlocked with the key. Not sure how it would work with the remote though but it's definitely possible! Luckily the S3 has remote air central locking as well so this will make life easy when I install it on the syncro :)

    There is a build thread for the syncro but it needs updating - will do it at some point when I get time. This thread might be more useful for the gearbox side of things so when I finish it off I'll make sure I take some detailed pics for you.

    http://vwsyncro.co.uk/data/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=3095

    Thanks for the info on the 02m boxes - I've learnt something new :) I take it your gearbox is out of the same donor car as your engine and wiring etc?

    I'm not sure what to do with the driveshafts on the syncro at the moment as I'm changing the track on it. I've heard you can mix and match some of the driveshafts to make it all fit but I thought I'd cross that bridge when I come to it. It's partly the reason why I went for the 02a and then the 02s boxes when I did the red golf - the standard shafts fitted straight in without any fuss. I dread to think how much it will cost to have the shafts custom built or shortened!

    Have you started your build already? :)
     
  10. Mjj4 Forum Member

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    Yeah thats the only way to perfection though, practice and more practice. Like you said in your thread you weren't an expert when you started but you learn when you break it a few times.

    I bet the car was great, i think i am doing this for the same reason you did yours. I drive a MK4 Gt TDi as a daily and have done for over 2 years but i've always prefered mk2's to drive and have always had a mk2 as a second car but i want a mk2 i can drive daily, that has a powerful reliable (and in my case economical) engine in and has the mod cons that i love in my mk4 (heated seats, cruise, climate blah blah) so yeah only way is to build a mk2/4 hybrid, best of both worlds!!

    Funnily enough i bought my donor car with a rear end knock (has been reversed into a post) so similar situation to your S3, hopefully the most cost effective way to do the conversion.

    Yes my mk2 has air central locking so although its slow and not so 'modern' as the mk4 system i think it will be easier to set up. Sounds good about the S3 having air c/l !!

    Will have a proper look through your syncro thread later as ive just scanned it quickly but looks like its going to be so sweet! your welding looks good on the floor for the seats, did you just teach yourself? (reason i asked i just got a small MIG welder to use in the build).

    And finally i have just started the project (had the mk4 donor for months but been waiting for the right mk2) and i started stripping the mk4 last week. I have taken some photos but need to find the charger for my camera and i will start a build thread hopefully this week.

    Cheers
    Mjj4
     
  11. Kav1187 Forum Member

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    Yeah buying a donor car is the best way to do it. I spent s buying parts individually, not to mention the time wasted going to scrap yards and taking whole cars apart just to get a few bits. Besides having to buy the consumables (new bushes, bearings, clutch, brake pads/discs etc) I've not had to spend any extra money on parts so far. With any luck, the only extra parts I'll have to buy will be an intercooler, a VR6 radiator and the turbo hoses to connect them all up. What's more, you will have all the compatible parts come off the donor car so you won't have to spend endless evenings on ETKA trying to figure out which part can go where.

    If you can figure out the wiring to make the air central locking work then it'll be good enough. If you struggle with it then you can always do the electric motors like I did.

    I never really learnt to weld. A friend (dressed like the fonz in one of the pics) showed me the basics of using a welder so I just went from there. I get some welds I'm really happy with and others not so much but it's like anything else - throw yourself in the deep end and see how it goes. The important thing is to get the prep right before you start the weld - clean the surface, set the wire speed/gas level and the correct power for the thickness of metal then hold it down long enough for it to penetrate through. Youtube is good for getting tips. The three most useful tools I've bought over the years have been the welder, the engine crane and a hydraulic press. They've saved me no end of money in the long run.

    I'm looking forward to seeing your build thread. Will you be fitting the mk4 dash also?
     
  12. Richard Mk2

    Richard Mk2 Paid Member Paid Member

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    A lot of effort has gone into this, and i love the Mk4 dash in the MK2 :thumbup:
     
  13. Kav1187 Forum Member

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    Thanks Richard :thumbup:
     
  14. Mjj4 Forum Member

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    Yeah i kept looking at engines but the price they seem to be fetching is rediculous compared to the value of a whole car!! Luckily for me the mk2 i have has corrado vr6 rad and twin fans and G60 brakes already so a few things less to purchase.

    I hope i don't have to spend evenings trawling through ETKA, mine is really crappy and crashes a lot. Must get a better one some time!

    Yeah i hope i can get it to work without too much hassle. The mk4 im using is 52 plate and runs Can-Bus system for certain parts of the car and i'm unfamiliar with Can-Bus but apparently its very sensitive and can cause all sorts of problem if you change anything and can throw up all sorts of faults/errors or not work at all! That's my main concern i guess.

    Ah thats good to know, i have a welder now (and no skill!) and i have use of an engine crane anytime but not a press, so i should look into getting one really :)

    I am going to fit the Mk4 dash, everyone has said its so much hard work and i can't even start to imagine but i can't imagine it without so its going to have to go in!

    I have just posted up a thread for my build, heres the link

    http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?259612-MK2-Golf-GT-TDi-Conversion-6-speed-PD-Dash-and-Wiring.

    I want to ask how far on you are with the syncro but i will wait for updates. Going to register on there and subscribe so i dont miss a thing!

    Cheers
     
  15. Kav1187 Forum Member

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    Just seen your thread mate - I can't believe you've got a blue mk2....in the colour I always wanted to find one in!

    Don't worry about the CAN-BUS system. If you're using the standard mk4 wiring/modules then you'll be fine. The only thing you might have to do is solder in resistors on the headlight/rear light looms but I'm not sure that the mk4s use CAN-BUS on the lights so you will probably be ok. VAG-COM will assist if you do get any errors. At this rate you'll only need to get a mk3 fuel tank in order to be able to fit the mk4 fuel pump in.

    The press is only useful for bearings and bushes so don't feel like you have to get one. I got mine off ebay for peanuts. It's very basic but it does the job and it does it well :) As you've already got G60 hubs you probably won't need it. The rear bearings come out without a press :)

    I've been working on the haldex conversion on the rear beam...it's taken me months to get it finished as I've changed jobs and been busy with 1001 things in between. You're lucky to have use of a unit. My first golf I built in a mate's double garage and I pretty much lived in it for 2 years :). The syncro is on the drive so I have to pray for good weather on the few days I have free to work on it.

    Just one word of warning to all...please please wear proper safety goggles when using an angle grinder or doing anything where metal might get in your eye. I was wearing ski-type safety goggles but they weren't tight enough and a piece of metal managed to get in from underneath and get lodged in my eye when I was angle grinding. It wasn't at all fun having to have it fished out of my eye with a needle while a doctor sat on me to hold my eye open. [8(]
     
  16. Mjj4 Forum Member

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    Yeah i was specifically after that colour and as it was only brought out in 1990 onwards (i think) it's quite hard to find one. Its Bright Blue Metallic or BBM.

    Okay thats a good to hear about the CAN-BUS!! I'm sure they don't use CAN-BUS on the lighting as they don't inform you when a bulb blows.

    I have a Mk3 fuel tank in the Mk2 at the moment but not sure whether to find a Mk3 TDi tank (maybe the filler neck is wider for diesel pump & won't have unleaded in it to clean out) and then yeah put the Mk4 pump into the Mk3 tank.

    I need to invest in VAG-COM soon i feel it will be very important (Drive by wire throttle can be checked for operation on VAG-COM which could be a big help).

    I will keep an eye out and if one comes up cheap i might invest :) I will need to take the hubs out and fit ABS hubs?

    Yeah i am very lucky, i was planning on doing it on my 1 car drive and have the tools and parts in my single garage but this is a far better set up and although added cost, i hope i can progress faster and achieve a higher standard of finish.

    Ah i know how it feels when you just don't have any time to yourself at all, have you got the haldex all sorted now?

    Thanks for the tip on the safety goggles, sorry it had to come at pain in your case, i guess you are lucky not to have done any permanent damage? I have some glasses that have foam seals on and strap around your head, apart from steaming up occasionaly i rate them pretty highly so if you ever want new ones i can send you a link to these :)
     
  17. Kav1187 Forum Member

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    I don't know about the filler necks (I don't think they made them smaller until the late 90s) but I've not had a diesel so I don't know. If you do use the existing tank then drain what fuel you have left and leave it open for a day and it will all evaporate.

    If you're going to get VAG-COM then it's worth spending the extra to get the real thing. I bought a couple of the interfaces from ebay but they didn't last long and I couldn't do much with them.

    Yes, if they haven't fitted the hubs with the ABS rings then you'll need to get the ABS hubs in there. Have a look at the carrier also. I think the G60 hub carrier has a mounting hole for the ABS sensor but not all did so check that before installing new hubs.

    Yep - I was very lucky not to do permanent damage. I've just tightened the strap on my goggles so nothing will get through now. They leave a red goggle mark on my face afterwards but worth it lol
     
  18. Mjj4 Forum Member

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    I will have a look. I know the filler neck in my Mk2 has no anti syphon so not sure if that's been removed or not but I just had a look on eBay and no tanks on there so will do as you suggested and drain the mk3 one I have. I will have a look I hope they have holes for the abs sensors I don't fancy buying more hubs when I hopefully have them.

    Yeah a red ring around your face and looking stupid for a few minutes is well worth keeping your sight in one piece. No point blinding yourself building a car and not being able to drive it!
     

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