Ive started this thread in this section to hopefully help others that want to do this conversion in a mk2. Ive got lots of information from this forum over the years, and more recent Rubjonnys diagrams and part numbers have been really helpful. So hopefully I can give something back and this can help other people So I picked up a complete Fabia VRS engine (BLT code), including ECU, engine bay wiring, battery box, airbox and fuel filter assembly. I also got hold of a 5speed 02K box EWT code from a polo TDI sport. I had the same box in my old polo and it used to sit around 3k at 90mph, and returned great economy. Once these diesels have been fettled with they have such a large spread of torque they can pull through the long gears. I'm using a lightened G60 flywheel and uprated clutch. With this mk2 being my daily driver I wanted it to be off the road shortest time possible. So I mocked up the whole engine and pipework into my G60 Syncro shell, and got the engine running and revving. So I now had some confidence I could get the conversion done quite quickly, with minimal problems. Picture of the engine mocked up in my G60 Syncro First job was to make the rear engine mount. A standard 4cylinder alloy engine mount will bolt straight to the PD blocks. But they do not clear the turbo. Some PD130, And PD150 came with garret turbos, these can be reclocked for clearance, along with a few mods to the alloy mount. My engine came with a KKK turbo, So I decided to make a engine mount to sit around the turbo With the Standard fabia engine mount removed from the engine it leaves a large hole in the cambelt cover. So I made a plastic textured section which fitted into the gap I bought a turbo flange from darkside developments, a 45deg and 90deg stainless bends, and made a downpipe with a flexi joint. Im using mk2 clocks, and wanted them all to work. After reading some info in the 1.8T guide I got the part number for a water flange which will house the mk2 style coolant temp sensor. Part number - 1J0-121-087 I've used a M10 Tpeice to mount the two mk2 pressure sensors, in the stock pressure sensor location. I first tried a longer T peice from Demon tweaks but it didn't fit. The one I used was from Devon 4x4. I got a sump plug adaptor from demon tweaks to mount the mk2 oil temperature sensor for the MFA, this is M14 to M10 adaptor. Now this does work, but seems to be reading low. Maybe the cool air over the sump is having an effect? Or somekind of heatsoak around the sensor. Ill update this if I improve its location/reading. I'm using a Evo front intercooler, which is mounted infront of the radiator similar to how a rallye intercooler is mounted. I made a small flange to mount the MAP sensor, and welded it into the top boost pipe I have used a mocal cooler for the fuel cooler, mounted under the slam panel. I got this idea from the seatcupra forums. There is a guide to using this cooler as an upgrade. It was perfect for my setup. Guide here - http://www.seatcupra.net/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=35&Itemid=6 The fuel filter is mounted into the chassis where a carbon canister would be fitted. I have removed the main GTI fuel pump, and joined the fuel pipes together. Ive left the original GTI lift pump in place feeding the high pressure pump on the engine. The car is running fine like this, although I may change it in the future, when more power is planned. Ive been advised my darkside developments to use a mk3 TDI tank, and then a PD lift pump will fit straight in. I fitted a larger EGR delete pipe, it was surprising how much gung was in the EGR and inlet manifold, on an engine thats only done 42k I fitted shallow sump for extra clearance on the mk2. These have nearly doubled in price from VW since I last bought one a few years ago. The cheapest place to buy it was from darkside developments. So I removed the engine, and the complete ABF ECU and wiring harness as one (to sell complete) I added back a few wires back into the bay, one for the solenoid on the starter, and the connections to the wiper motor. All other connections are on the TDI loom I've made. I tidied up the engine bay, fitted a freshly painted servo, and a Ibiza Cupra 23mm master cylinder. I used the reservoir that came with the master cylinder. A lot of people change these to fit a mk2/corrado reservoir. The Ibiza one was against the strut tower, but fitted fine and isnt stressed. I cut down bonnet liner and fitted it across the bulkhead. I'm hoping this will help sound deaden the engine noise into the cabin. I built up a powdercoated subrame fitted PAS, a Ibiza cupra front ARB (same as a G60), and new bushes I removed the pedal box (already converted to corrado). And made a bracket for the electric throttle pedal. I then bolted the bracket to the pedal box. I decided to bolt it on in case I need to adjust the pedal position in the future. After searching for some bolt in 100mm driveshaft flanges I bit the bullet and ordered some new one's. Its only when I came to bolt the engine mount brackets to the gearbox I realised this gearbox didn't have all the fixings. I chose this gearbox specifically for it's ratio's. So I made a little adaptor for the rear mount. I then got the engine mounted into the car I got the battery and battery box mounted, and extended a few wire's to use the fuses on top of the battery. From left to right we have Alternator, Main power to CE2 fusebox, Glow plug relay power, and main ECU relay power. I mounted the airbox, I love it when you start to get visual progress I mounted the pas resevoir infront of the battery under the slam panel. You can still fill it, with a small tube and funnel. I modified the original loom and brought it into the car through some blank grommets on the LH side. You can see the two ECU connectors and the box which contains the glow plug relay, and the main relay for the ECU and sensor powers. I then wired these into the car, and tidied the loom. . I'll mount the ECU and relay box under or around the glovebox.
Turbo pipework routing. Here is a picture of the pipework exiting the turbo And the pipework going across the engine bay to the intercooler. This is held in place with a vw clamp, which I think was from a K03 1.8t. And a picture showing all the pipework plumbed up. On the Fabia/Polo/Ibiza TDi cars they use one box for controlling different vacuum actuators. In my opinion this is neater than the mk4 based cars that use separate solenoids around the engine and engine bay. The box fitted nicely into the location that the factory mk2 ECU is mounted. And with a bit of rerouting all vaccum lines reach and plug in. With the engine cover fitted, it does look like the engine has a slight slant. This picture shows the engine sitting level with no cover fitted. Wiring information I sent the ECU to stealth racing, they remapped, deimmobilised and deleted the EGR. There are two wiring looms connected to the ECU, one loom you don't have to touch, the other has lots of unused wires which i stripped out of it. I'm using a relay to provide main power to the ECU and to all the sensors on the engine (as the original car). And the original glow plug relay. Looking at the picture below the red loop shows the loom that doesn't have to be touched or modified 1. - Connects the two looms together 2. - This is the glowplug relay, I had to extend the power cable to this from the battery 3. - This area is the battery box fuses and the electric pas connections. I stripped this all down leaving one power for the ECU power relay, and the power for the glowplug relay 4. - MAF connector 5. - Bulkhead connectors, I stripped all the wire's back from these 6. - MAP sensor 7. - Throttle variable flap (I'm not currently running this due to a EGR delete pipe. But I have left it in the loom) 8. - Vacuum control box It's a shame i didn't take more picture's of the stages of wiring This is the ECU pin-out And the connections I have made (this does change between engines and cars). I hope this helps people, but please check the connections for your engine/setup. And keep in mind my car is CE2 electrics Bold - connections to car Small black - within the loom and you don't need to touch Red - Not used ECU Pins 1.Red/purple Power via the voltage supply relay 2.Red/purple Power via the voltage supply relay 3. 4. Brown/red - Earth 5. Brown/red - Earth 6. Orange/black - can l T10w/2 (not used) 7. Orange/brown - can h T10w/3 (not used) 8. 9. White/green glow plug relay 10. 11. Brown/white - T10w/6 rad fan (not used) 12. Yellow/green - DBW 13. 14. Black/white T10e/3 Cruise control (not used) 15. 16. Grey/white Diagnostics port, Wired to diagnostics plug 17. 18. Blue/yellow - Switched earth for voltage supply relay, Connected to voltage supply relay. 19. 20. Blue/white Speedo Clocks (not used) 21. Black/blue - Switched earth for low heat output relay (not fitted on my engine) 22. Black/brown - Switched earth for high heat output relay (not fitted on my engine) 23. 24. 25. 26. 27. Green/brown Not used Clocks (not used) 28. Green/white Tach signal T10/2 (not used) 29. Green - T10/7 air con (not used) 30. Red/purple - MAF 31. Purple/red - Manifold pressure sensor 32. Red/black Brake switch Normally open 33. White/red glow plug relay 34. blue/red - T10/8 air con (not used) 35. 36. 37. black/purple ignition 1 and 2 Power, connected to G1 pin 4 blk 10A fuse 38. brown/red - T10w/5 DFM alternator 39. 40. ?blue/green - T10w/8 41. 42. 43. 44. Red T10e/2 Cruise control (not used) 45. Blue/Grey T10e/1 Cruise control (not used) 46. White T10e/9 Cruise control (not used) 47. ?green/purple - T10w/9 48. 49. Green - MAF 50. grey/red - DBW 51. green/ red - DBW 52. brown/blue - Manifold temp sensor 53. 54. 55. 56. 57. 58. 59. 60. 61. red/blue - EGR 62. Red/brown - N75 valve charge pressure solenoid 63. white/blue - DBW 64. 65. White/grey - Cruise control brake pedal switch (not used) 66. White/red - Clutch pedal switch, wired to clutch pedal Normally closed 67. 68. Black - MAF 69. grey/blue - DBW 70. grey/white - DBW 71. grey/black - Manifold pressure sensor 72. 73. Grey/green - Manifold temp sensor 74. 75. 76. 77. 78. 79. 80. Purple/grey - Switched earth for fuel pump relay, connected to G1 pin 3 Red/yel 81. Purple/grey - Variable intake manifold flap 82. 83. 84. 85. 86 87. 88. Black/green Constant Power 10A fuse, Connected to Y4 89. 90. 91. 92. 93. 94. 95. 96. 97. 98. 99. 100. 101.Black/green - camshaft position 102.Black - Engine speed sensor earth 103.Black/grey - Fuel temp 104.brown/blue - coolant temp 105. 106. 107. 108. 109.black/blue - Camshaft position 110.brown - Engine speed sensor 111.Purple - Fuel temp 112.blue/white - coolant temp 113. 114.brown/grey - Injector positive 115. 116.Number 1 injector 117.brown/blue - Number 2 injector 118.brown/white - Number 3 injector 119. 120. 121.brown/red - brown/green - Number 4 injector OTHER CONNECTIONS FROM ENGINE LOOM Green/Black MAF power, connected to G1 pin 10 blk/yel switched power via digifant relay 10a fuse Blue Alternator exciter wire, Connected to A2 pin 1 - blue - alternator pin D+ All engine sensors apart from the MAF are connected to the ecu power relay. These are all black/blue colour Mk2 sensor connections Connector G2 1 - grn/blk- oil temp sensor 3 - yel/red- coolant temp sensor 10- yel - oil pressure sensor 1.8 bar 11- blue/blk- oil pressure sender 0.3 bar Looking at this picture All finished
Nice fabrication work - so is it running? I bet it'll shift once it's all bedded in, and still return about 60 mpg!
Thanks Trev Yeah it's running. It's covered around 200 miles now. It does really fly. And great on motorways.
great to see another one of these, I'm not 100% sure on the turbo outlet pipe though the mount - I would of clocked the turbo and then worked around it! mk5 105 brake PD unit?
No it's a 130 Fabia VRS BLT. This turbo isn't able to be reclocked. I plan to go change to a hybrid turbo in the future, and might change back to a alloy bracket then. But you have to remove a fair amount of material from the alloy mount, and with all that torque i'm not sure how much faith I would have in it.
Thanks The radiator is from an earlier 1.3 mk2 golf I think, there available from vw heritage. It is quite small, even so the car is running really cool. We will see what it's like in the summer
Nice work mate iv built a MK2 PD130 too stage 3 and should have it back soon.. ACR at croft are just finishing it off for me and plugging the loom in, really exited to get it back My 1st rear mount was the same as yours until i swivvel'd the turbo housing and had a much better mount made and re routed the pipes !
Great work with the car and write up, this needs to be a sticky so when petrol hits 2/lt we can all run around in quick derv mk2s
Thanks guys. The cars covered around 1700miles now, with no problems. I've added a glow plug light and symbol into the clocks, form a GTD I calculated the MPG the other day. This consisted of mixed B road driving to and from work. And a quick trip to Heathrow airport cruising around 80-85mph (I was running late). I made a note of the litres I put in and the mile's I covered, It calculated to 56.8MPG. It should do even better when taking it easy. S3-Dan, that should be great when it's running. I had a hybrid in my polo TDI, it was great fun. I plan to do it on this in the future.
That is quite a smart conversion. You are brave doing this to your every day car but as you say mocking up all the gear in the other shell first was a smart move. So you are thinking you will be getting over 60mpg which is quite impressive. Could you give us some info on how it drives? I am guessing a 130bhp and lots of torque is going to be very close to the original 140bhp unit ? Is it much louder than the new TDI cars as I am guessing the sound deadening these new cars have must kill a lot of the TDI rattle? The reason for all the questions is a mate was talking about fitting one of these units into a mk1 he has had for a while, but is holding off mainly due to the worries about all the new TDI torque in such a light car
I took a week off work to fit it. It ended up taking 9 days and 3 evenings. I was concerned i would run into problems, but mocking it up and getting it running in the other car gave me some confidence. I will do a fair mpg test driving with economy in mind and let you know the results. The engine has a remap so is around 170-180bhp and 300lbft of torque. These engine's make nearly there max torque from around 2500rpm. It is alot quicker than the old ABF on the road, the most impressive part is the in gear acceleration. And part throttle effortless acceleration. Where it really come's into it's own is when your leaving roundabouts. Or accelerating from a single lane road into a dual carridgeway. It's a very quick road car, and is also very easy to drive quick A-B part throttle, and quiet. Because of the lightweight car and the torque it take's off in any gear. But you soon have to change gear as the torque tails off quite quick. I was concerned about the noise and vibration, and I'm now pleased with the results. The car has had sound deadening added inside and also in the engine bay bulkhead and bonnet, my next plan is to add a undertray. I had to cut the bottom of the airbox for clearance, this made the engine very noisey. So I fiberglassed the bottom back in to fit around the mk2 chassis leg. This made the biggest difference. At idle it is does shake the steering wheel a little, with some vibrations. As soon as your on the move it's fine. At low speeds you can hear it a little in the car. As soon as you go above 40mph, I just have road and wind noise. Shall I get a video inside and out? It does need a LSD though, because the torque comes in low and agressive, it has spun the wheels in 4th in bad conditions.
it is a nice little conversion, when I first done my mk2 TDI surprised on how quick to/easy to fit everything, and even without finishing it dash in ect I drove it to shows I also put the whole mk4 loom & modules in! LSD does help also depending on suspension set up softer setting on the shocks
excellent project mate i recognise the name from ebay you got the master cylinder from me nice to see my bits going into projects
Well scruffydubber thanks for the feed back on how this drives over all. My mate is not a big one for “forums” but I have sent him this link to see if it would inspire him to start his pub dream project. From what you are suggesting it would look like the days of dropping a 1.8T or an mk3 16v into the mk2 are looking quite old skool now? From your experience it seams you can actually have your cake and eat it, in as much that you can have a powerful and quick car with out needing to rev its big ends off and still get a genuine 50-60mpg. Is there any problems with doing this as far as insurance and MOT’s are concerned?
You certainly can have your cake and eat it. It depends what you want from the car, and enjoy. My old polo had 230bhp with 515Nm torque, it was quicker than my old mk2 20vt(k03s) when on the move. It did low 40's mpg when giving it some, and high 50's when taking it easy. But it depends what you want and enjoy from the car. I find high revving 16v and petrols are alot of fun and very rewarding to drive quick. But i prefere living with this day to day. Because of how easy/lazy it is to drive quick. If I had to have a modern diesel car, as a company car or because i had to cover alot of miles etc. And a mk2 as a toy, it would probably have a petrol engine in.
