Tub it seems I've missed something, what 3 things have all gone wrong? I know your real main oil seal went but what else?
Rear main, helix paddle clutch disc fell apart and a standard clutch lasted 28 miles of sub 3k driving I still can't get my head around Tub actually driving like that for 28 miles Two-speed Tub - Flat out, or parked
When you say the Helix fell apart, was that just Tubs odd noise? Also when the standard clutch went what failed, did it just wear out?
I had the gearbox built up with the ATB and 3.94 final drive. I decided at the same time to fit a Helix group N pressure plate and 4 padel cerematellic clutch. The flywheel is lightened, and the flywheel and pressure plate are balanced together. (So, new parts fitted where: gearbox (atb + FD) group N pressure plate, 4 padel clutch, flywheel.) The helix had that 'funny noise (in a previous thread asking about the rattle)' from a minute or so of it being started up the first time on axle stands. Helix have told me that what failed on the unit would have caused that rattle, and would be caused by: They also said that it will have been caused within quite a short time of the unit being started the first time. At the same time as this happening my rear crankshaft seal went - as we know it had no signs of damage or wear, and was still supple - but was leaking. The seal was replaced, and an LUK clutch kit fitted. After 28 miles this completley failed. Driving at less than 30mph is simply stopped transferring drive to the wheels. And clutch pedal felt as though there was little to no resistance against it. Car will go in and out of all gears, clutch pressed or not. Edited by: Tubthumped
Tub where was the bitting point with the Luk clutch and can you remember how much of the clutch cable thread was showing?
There was lots of cable showing on both the Helix and LUK clutches - much more than i've ever had before. Biting point felt 'normal' after the adjustments.
When you say "more cable" do you mean physically more cable exposed down to the clutch arm or do you mean more of the inner threaded part of the cable showing?
More of the threaded part would be normal for a new clutch. I can think of a few reasons why the rear main and Helix could've gone if the Helix was faulty but not the standard clutch. Did the Luk clutch engage smoothly? *a small note, the Sachs unit has a better design to the Luk*
LUK seemed fine - although it was slipping from installation. This was put down to small remains of oil on the flywheel. I can't say that the LUK and the Helix have both failed in the same way, for the same reason. But it seems a coincidence that it's all happened at the same time.. As a precaution Martin is gonna check all the gearbox side of things.
I take it you did your best to clean the flywheel before refitting it? The only thing I can think of is that the Luk clutch jammed on the input shaft splines.
Flywheel was cleaned up by Jody at MidVW. He said there where small traces left in the surface, but nothing too serious and it should be fine after a few miles careful driving. Do you think there could be a problem elsewhere thats causing the same things though?
when fitting the g/box is it going straight in or are you having to wresle it in putting strain on the input shaft?they can be awkward especialy if fitting by yourself
I normally get them in quite easy to be honest - 2 of us with decent lifting gear and experience of my gearbox
My initial thinking is it could've been the Helix that knackered the rear seal. If part of it had fallen apart it may have caused a side load from being out of balance but the faliure of the Luk unit is baffling.
I'm still not ruling out a possible centre main failure causing all these faults, Mattd's car had this happen in the summer, I hope it isn't tho in your case Tub!
