That is a very nice setup with a decent looking inlet manifold too. The head looks like an injection one though, and it has had the holes blocked off, or it was grabbed off production line prior to machining.
Looking at the angle of the manifold it looks like an up-right type for in-line application. Along with that style of throttle linkage (the carb spindles all but touch on those type of manifolds) I'd say it has hotrod origins or rear engine single seater. The F3 heads I've seen are based on early 1600 GTi castings with the injector holes pluged, so again, maybe yours was modded for hotrod use from a bare casting... mine is based on a carb casting. Looking at the size of the lobe nose on the cam I'd say thats a BIG one!... Whats the history with it?
And, those buckets look like 37mm jobs... only used & needed on VERY radical cams... I have some in mine.
That second pic looks like a carb head. Is the combustion chamber chambered in it? The 1588c gti engines used the heron flat head design but the carb versions used a chambered head and obviously no injectors. And that is one of those Cosworth inlet manifolds too.
Have been told that the spindles have to be machined to enable fitment to the manifold as you say, "fag paper gap"
This is the same inlet manifold as attached to the second head. Not the same as your carb one though.
The second head will be off a 1588cc FR carb engine or the like. Allows wider cam overlaps compared to the flat gti head which needs the pistons machined for valves, reducing compression in the process. The FR engines as std normally have a similar dished piston to the later 1595 and 1781 cc engines. If yours has a flat top design, this is to raise the compression.
I intend to circuit race the 2l 8v engine what ignition system would you recommend to extract maximum performance etc(that dos'ent cost an arm and leg) and what length intake trumpets would be best on the 48's ?
Megajolt ignition driving a coilpack may be an option. Inlet runner length is generally dependant on space but longer the better. This turned up in the Slick 50 thread recently. http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1946774&postcount=34
Engine spec : 83mm bore 92.8mm stroke 42mm Inlet valves, 36 Exhaust with a 320 cam, dry sump pump similar formula ford and steel dry sump pan needs, flywheel, clutch, Ignition system, (possible oil pump internal) to comply with championship regs I have an alloy baffled sump and definitely need lots of advise !!
Ray, further to convo, didn't receive any pics, but just been pointed to the thread by Mike. Agree with Dan on the 2E, it's a tall block, 236mm from crank centre line to deck. Also skew gear internally means this has run a Titan/Brabham-type dry sump pump. These are Ford originated, adapted for VWs. The flywheel isn't FWD in my book - too far offset and only so much room in a VW bellhousing for the clutch. Single seater origins IMO, or the other one suggested. The engine doesn't look a cheap one.
Hi Chris, sorry for the lack of photo's you know what I'm like with this modern form of communication you send things and then they mysteriously return, Glad you picked up the thread It wasn't expensive picked it up on good old ebay in an obscure section with no other bidders !! decided to take a chance not to much info on the add seems to be value for money so far, hope I can use it in anger if I can sought out the missing bits' flywheel, clutch, Ignition system, Internal oil pump (to championship regs) have ally sump, any advise welcome
I'm sure Dan's right... 2ltr with the big breather hole at the front. Were the 2ltr "tall's" like that Dan, same as the 16v?
I have built two "clone" ABF 16v engines in the past using 2E blocks. I omitted the trigger wheel from the ABF crank so had no need for the crank sensor hole in the block. The std 2E cranks appear heavier looking than the 9a, 6A and ABFs I have seen, but believe they are cast unlike the forged 16v ones, but weights end up the same due to denser mass of forged item. Reckon the neatest basis for a high revving spec, oem parts 2.0 8v engine would be 2E block with forged 9A or 6A crank omitting all trigger wheel gubbins completely. Chuck a crossflow head on and give the 16v lads something to think about!
A proper job! Set up correctly that'll make over 190hp without trying... my 1800's make 193 on similar valve sizes, and a recent 2ltr made 196 on smaller valves. For a flywheel use a lightened MK1/MK2 unit, a Helix paddle clutch & pressure plate will be needed. Use a std 2ltr inter shaft.. you may need to juggle with the dizzy drive wheel depending on what they've done.. or the current shaft maybe ok, if it's driving the dizzy it should still be able to drive an internal pump. A standard genuine pump or a febi one is fine. Use 60mm trumpets, any longer will be too close to the bulkhead unless cut away, shorter will loose a bit of power & torque. Shout if you need any help. Get any pics up of the top of the block & head face you can... I'd expect to see the pistons out the block a touch. I'd run a DTA management on it. You'll need crank sensor/bracket/trigger wheel (I can help there if you get stuck) I hope it was'nt TOO cheap... jammy git!
