Help with knock sensor

Discussion in '8-valve' started by Richard Gilberd, May 8, 2021.

  1. Richard Gilberd Forum Member

    Joined:
    Dec 1, 2018
    Likes Received:
    1
    Hello all, i've been having this problem for quite some time now and i have diagnosed it down to the knock sensor, i am getting really rough running from about 2000 revs through to 5000 almost like cutting the fuel quickly on and off, i've set the timing (although i can't do co2) and on replugging the temp sender in see that the timing moves, i've also replaced the knock sensor (correct torque!) checked the temp sender and throttle pentiometer and all are good, so why do i get a pinking situation between 2 and 5000 rpm? if i disconnect the knock sensor it runs well, i've had three different ecu's on the car and they all do it, any help with this would be great, thanks.
     
  2. Richard Gilberd Forum Member

    Joined:
    Dec 1, 2018
    Likes Received:
    1
    O.k sorted, even though with no answers you guys helped me, let me know what you think, i went back to basics as this was a non runner when i got it and the timing was not at all set correctly, it has a plastic later model cam cover (for timing) on it and i think the previous owner was trying to set up from those marks, so fast forward to when i got it, the wiring loom had been cut and soldered back together at the pig tail on the ecu, the ecu was dead spurting litres of petrol into the engine and the timing was not really near where it should be.
    i started with rewiring the engine bay and a new ecu, set the timing statickly with the punch on the cam wheel to head and she fired up which i thought was the end of that problem, then the problems really started, between 2-5000 rpm it wasn't running right spluttering and almost seemed like it was cutting power to the hall sender, so new dizzy, no change, new temp sender, no change, used inlet boot as mine was cracked, no change, used air mass sensor, no change, new ecu no change (2x!), another new knock sensor no change, then after a year of searching threads rubjohnny had the answer (champion of champs!!) check the flywheel and the front pulley line up and the cam is right and sure enough the cam was 180 degrees out, i could kick myself, such a schoolboy error, so now i have her statickly timed and she runs 100 times better than before, just normal missing as she's not properly timed, i'm very thankfull for forums like these as 2000 heads are better than one, many thanks i will post photos soon as i am really close to finishing this project,

    1991 1.8pf Edition Blue,

    best regards,
    Rich.
     
  3. davidut5 Forum Member

    Joined:
    Oct 14, 2018
    Likes Received:
    71
    Location:
    Romania
    Can't be that, 180 on the cam is another turn on the crank, so to time it just turn the engine 1 crank turn. It is an issue on diesels as they have the injection pump that needs to be correct with the cam.
     
  4. Richard Gilberd Forum Member

    Joined:
    Dec 1, 2018
    Likes Received:
    1
    o.k not sure if it was 180 out but it was definately out!!, it's either that or the metal plate behind the timing belt was rubbing as one of the bolts had pulled through the tin
     

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
    Dismiss Notice