sorry I missread earlier post, though you had checked that already. next thing to check is your throttle switch wiring back to ecu, as well as the switches themselves. for switches connect multimeter in continuity/resistance/beep mode. when throttle is closed you should see a closed circuit (0 resistance/beep). half open throttle open circuit, full throttle closed circuit again. wiring check back to ecu same as you did the isv
I didn't check the switch in terms of continuity or connection back to the ECU. I really should have done that. Do both pins go back to the ECU? I can only see pin 11
yes both to ecu, pin 11 is the idle switch signal the other pin from throttle switch goes to ecu common sensor earth pin 6
Checked continuity and nothing on one of the wires. Pulled on both wires and one just came out of the plug. Cut it back a bit and shoved it back in. Now have continuity and wot switch test drops the revs. Should I now circle back and redo the idle setup? I still didn't seem to have any buzzing or vibration from the isv.
thats a bingo I recon. cut the plug off and repair properly, just stuffing wires in holes isnt a VW approved repair but for now yes, try setting the base idle and co again fingers crossed you've got to the bottom of it
I really hope so! haha it's just temporary I will do the wiring properly later and redo the idle setup. I still cant understand why the ISV isn't doing anything. With ignition on I have no audible buzz at all and no vibration that I can feel. I have 3 ISV's and none of them buzz or vibrate. I know the wiring is fine as it's been tested.
Right I've just sorted the wiring properly and reset the idle. Instantly I could tell there was a difference. Rather than the idle bouncing up and down it was rock solid. When you rev and release the throttle back to idle it's instantly back to the set idle. No more bouncing about and nearly stalling. I was also having the issue where I couldn't set the idle high enough otherwise it would stick at 1200rpm after revving, not anymore. I still don't hear or feel the ISV working but it seems to be as I can turn on lights and fan and the idle is solid. I'm hesitant to say 100% it's fixed but I'm 99% sure that it is. Thanks everyone for your help and suggestions with this. Especially rubjonny for taking the time to get back to me so many times. You're a legend.
Took it for a spin and I can confirm it's running great and the idle is solid. Now to sort the sticking rear caliper since it's been sat over the winter...
Awesome. off topic, but out of curiosity which of the mk2, mk4, or e91 do you enjoy driving the most?
All different to be honest. The mk2 is pure nostalgia for me, I can't do without one in my life. I've pretty much always had one since I learnt to drive other than a few years in my late 20's. They are my favorite car and I'd choose one over anything. I really miss my oak green 16v I really regret selling that car when they were worth nothing. The R32 is the next best thing. Bit more modern and the sound is incredible plus you can drive it pretty hard without breaking the law. The 335d does everything so it's a great daily. I think the e91 has aged pretty well. It's tuned to around 360hp and pulls really strong plus decent mpg. But the best to drive is the Mk4 R32. Thought I'd Google my old oak green 16v to see if it was alive and this popped up..H714 GGM https://www.facebook.com/RedlineCom...here-receiving-his-mk2-golf-g/743166226428894 Advert photo from when I bought it many years ago https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3uXJj5B3S4UMWZRQVNIM2JlWFk/view?usp=sharing
Slightly off topic of the previous issue. But the speedo isn't working and hasn't been working since I got the car. It's never really bothered me but thought I might get it sorted now the car is running ok. The cog in the gearbox is definitely not the issue. It's there and isn't chewed up at all. So I guess it has to be the clocks end? Is it possible to sort without taking the whole dash out?I had a quick look and it looks awkward. I also noticed hanging down what looks like some sort of vacuum line. Should there be a vacuum line to the clocks? And where does it go if so?
Wow that's for the nipple on the mfa vacumn diaphragm on back of clocks. One major airleak to inlet if not connected. I used a cordless drill to check my speedo with a piece inserted in back of clocks in lounge
All sorted. I was trying to avoid taking the dash apart but it wasn't too bad actually. Speedo cable wasn't connected. Reconnected it. And the vacuum line I think I had pulled off when tugging around for the speedo cable. Reconnected that too. All good now thanks.
