How to Meqasquirt your ABF engine

Don't put it on the FPR. You need to have it on something that stays live when cranking. I have mine on the ecu relay. You need to look at the diagram to find a suitable supply.

 

What diagram, the megasquirt one? That just shows the 12v wire going everywhere, I need like about 3 live connections, one for injectors, one for the ms ecu, one for the tps sensor, has three pins so guessing the other ones for a live feed. the red and yellow wire on the fuel pump relay is what i connected my fuel pump too, will there be more than one red/yellow wire in my car ? presuming there is as theres a red/yellow wire going to my water temp sender.

Just doing my head in, trying to get live feeds to these places, only thing ive read about getting a live feed is from that fuel pump relay.

Oh and read up on what a relay does and kind of understood it, does it allow multiple live feeds to components, what number is the ecu relay? Can I just add a new whole wire to one of the pins or do I cut and go onto a wire that may not be in use?

Have't got an ecu relay

 

@ Toyotec.............mate, you're a legend!

Can you quickly advise if a Megasquirt ms2 v3 would work ok with an ABF setup, using stock ancillaries?

Cheers in advance......

 

I connected that to the 12v live on ignition switch using a spare relay

 

Yes it does as per MS1. With MS2 you can choose to use the "extra" firmware the latest is 3.X.X.
or previous 2.1.0d which is stable.
Be warned though there are more "knobs" in the MS2 firmware thus making the calibration process much more involved than MS1.
MS1 has been used by members on here with great success. So fitting MS2 is really your choice.

 

Thanks buddy.......looking at a few on fleabay, that's all....
MS1 V2.2 is the green PCB version and won't have the proto area?
No good either?

 

Same as MS1 Ver3 PCB ( blue) but with far less pins to populate. The top pins on ver 2.2 PCB are earthed and can be a struggle when you have wasted spark and other extras. This was the reason for people using Ford EDIS system when they wanted fuel/spark control and FIDLE.

If this is your first time then just get the MS1 Ver3 PCB then use with 029Y4 firmware. Most of the auction ones will need converting to suit a VW engine anyway.

 

One more thing......if I get MS1 V3, can I adapt this easilty to run a 1,8T engine (cable throttle i realise), probably with WS or Pencil Packs?
Wideband O2 sensor would be needed too?

 

The base hardware config would need to be changed to run amplifed coil packs and difference speed sensor.
UHEGO and controller a good purchase for live development though not essential if you are not going to do the tuning yourself.

 

Hi Toyo i take it as i have used your setup below

Trigger input

Tachselect and opto isolator modifications

For an ABF ECU you require the opto isolator circuit only. You can install the variable reluctance circuit as an option if you think the ECU will be used on another project with a VR trigger. To get the hall input circuit running properly follow the instructions in the manual from step 50a, i-viii.
From OPTOIN, power with 5V from proto area (you can use 12V as well but I have been using 5Volts as it does the job and I would rather have 5Volts voltage regulator and low current running around my ECU than 12v from Terminal 15.
Connect TACHSELECT to XG1.
Connect TSEL to OPTOUT.

Your hall circuit will now run with a 5v amplitude when high. ( You can always invert this relationship with Megatune software)

i wont need to use this method below?

http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthr...highlight=hall

I will be using 4 pole ford coilpack if this makes a diffrence, also do i need to invert the spark in the software?

cheers in advance
Jay

 

As answered in your other thread. The method as seen in this thread is what you see is what will work. The other method as taken from MSEfi-Extra works as well and is the same, just not as simplified.

 

Cheers Toyo your help is appreciated as always

 

Just wanted to say THANKS for this.

I'd spent yesterday struggling to figure out why the crank sensor on my ABF wasn't being seen- I could see a pulse with a meter, so I assumed the MS (A prebuilt unit from DIYAutotune) was seeing it just fine, no mods needed.

Wrong- rewired the input as shown in the thread here, and poof, instant beautiful crank signal.

 

I finally got back into my car and decided to start fitting my Megasquirt, the question i have is can i run wasted spark using the standard ABF crank sensor?

cheers in advance

 

Just onto the last part of my ecu build and need clarification on this tci h part
I think it means. If you used wires, you'd take one off led17 (d14) anode and one from proto area 5v and connect BOTH to the same end of a 1k resistor. The other end of the resistor then connects to pin 36, or to IGBTOUT and then IGBTOUT connects to pin36

Is this correct?

Also, I have some 1k resistors left over. Can I use any of them for this.
They are:
1.0k 1/6w 5% (used for various inc. R16)
and
1.0k 1/2w 5% (used for R39,40)


Edit: found all the answers here.
http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/how_to_megasquirt_your_water_cooled_vw.htm

 

What an insightful thread! I will be reading and referring to the content and links a lot, as I hope to build a MS kit running ITBs and wasted spark on my mk3 ABF in the future much appreciation for all your time and effort you put in to sharing your knowledge and experience!
Dan

 

Been there and done that too...see here

 

On the last little bit now.

With the 12v power to g1/10, do I have to fuse it inline or is it fused from the fuse box already.?
Same with injector powering them from z1

 

glensgarage site don't seem to list the MS1 v3 board anymore? only v2.2

 

Megasquirt kits and looms are now purchased from DIYAutotune