Internal routing for rear brake pipes?

Discussion in 'Chassis' started by pj_sibley, Feb 16, 2012.

  1. pj_sibley

    pj_sibley Forum Member

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    I'll soon be re-routing my rear brake pipe setup internally through my track car. I will be running a single line from the master cylinder, through the bulkhead, down the transmission tunnel via a Wilwood bias valve and then through a T-piece to allow connections to each of the rear calipers. I assume that I'll need to make connections to the inner flexibile hoses that sit across the rear beam on both sides, either in their current position or modified to suit where my solid lines come through the chassis.

    So, does anyone have any tips on where to run the solid lines through the chassis to meet the rear beam flexible hoses? Presumably I can optimise the setup to avoid the 90deg bend in the current inner flexible pipe arrangement and offer a better connection through to the solid lines on the beam arms?
     
  2. Hilux Forum Member

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    What I did on my Mk1

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  3. pj_sibley

    pj_sibley Forum Member

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    Such a useful reply, thank you for taking the time to post all those pics!! I assume.that going straight through the wheel arch meant you ran flexi straight through to the caliper without the need to run any solid along the beam arm? Maybe I can just get some custome flexi hoses made up to run from wheel arch to caliper then.
     
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  4. Hilux Forum Member

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    I am glad they are of use to you.

    Yes you are correct, I avoided the rear beam.

    I used a male/male bulkhead fixing through the rear arch and had a couple of hoses made up as shown to connect to the caliper. The hose needs a 90 degree bend at the caliper so as to ensure that it `swings` and flexes correctly away from the springs. If you have a straight end both ends the hose will hit the springs.

    I added the hose buffer as I thought it might touch on occasion but it doesnt and is clear all through compression and rebound. I just haven't taken it off thats all.

    You could use the same principle to go through the floor and connect onto the flex by the rear beam. I did mine this way as I consider it a far easier method and with fewer joints.
     
  5. pj_sibley

    pj_sibley Forum Member

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    By male-male bulkhead fixing, do you mean a male M10x1 metric fixing (with concave or convex end?), then a corresponding female fixing on the end of the solid pipe to complete the connection inside the car?

    Something like this for the male fixing (with a locknut on the external thread that sits inside the car)? I can't find a 90 degree bend end-piece for the caliper, but I'm sure Merlin do them!!
     
  6. matt~driver Forum Member

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    if i get the chance i will put some piks of mine i used braided flex hose i made up from tweeks is nice and easy to do
     
  7. Hilux Forum Member

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    90 degree M10 x 1 individual male/male or male/female bends are impossible to find I found so I simply went to a hydraulic hose maker who made two up for me. 12 each if I recall correctly about a year ago. If you are using aeroquip type unions then yours would do.

    Regarding the bulkhead union - the type I used is below - so if its good old M10 x 1 male/male you want then try here

    Edited to say you`ll need a half nut for securing them and on that site the price includes it :thumbup:

    Edited agin to say you dont necessarily need a 90 degree if you route the hose differently - whats in the photos is simply what I did to ensure minimum flex (fatigue) and to miss rubbing on things ;)



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    Last edited: Feb 17, 2012
  8. ShaunyC

    ShaunyC Forum Member

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    Great thread :thumbup: I've been wondering how to run brake line's.??

    Nice system hilux [:D] any other pics how it comes through the bulk head.?

    Be good to see a few pics of your braid system matt.?? Think thats what i'm gona run in.? Especially after op's link to merlin... pvc coated braid for 1.12/m.?? :thumbup:

    Sorry if i'v high jacked a little[:$]

    Edit:- Hahaha... just done the maths.. thats for 10cm lmao
     
    Last edited: Feb 23, 2012
  9. Hilux Forum Member

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    Thanks, to be honest its the easiest route ;)

    It comes through the grommet in the piccy from the engine bay (just behind the fuse box) and turns immediately towards the centre of the car at the same height so as to be well above any passengers feet, runs across the rear of the bulkhead behind the heater (there are some factory metal tags that you can use to secure it (or use rivet P clips) then turns down onto the exhaust tunnel (fixed by P clips until it runs past the gearlever as shown.
     
  10. matt~driver Forum Member

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    hears a few piks of my pipes i got the flexey bits from tweeks just had a chat with them and thay new what i neaded and i just made them up my self

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  11. Jommanjo Forum Member

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    Useful thread. :thumbup:
     
  12. Truckinduc Forum Member

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    What is the thread size and pitch of the union at the calipers? M10 x 1?
     
  13. Hilux Forum Member

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    Yes, the brake threads and unions are all M10 x 1
     
  14. Truckinduc Forum Member

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    thank you
     
  15. ShaunyC

    ShaunyC Forum Member

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    Thanx for some more pics for insperation mat:thumbup:

    Just something to be aware of on caliper thread pitches..
    When i was doing some reaserch on the subject a while ago i was informed that mk1's up to early mk3's have 10x1 male connections and late mk3 to mk6 have 10x1.5 banjo's..:thumbup:
     
  16. turbotommy Forum Member

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    Some pics of mine;

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    I have a single line with a pressure reducer screwed into the master cylinder with 1 piece from there to the bias valve.Routed the pipe out of the way of the passengers feet and P clipped it down to the tunnel to the bias valve,then under the old seat rail to protect it.Out to an external "T" piece thats bolted to the floor,and rejoins the old pipe route to the calipers.
     
  17. ShaunyC

    ShaunyC Forum Member

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    Another sweet looking set up tommy :thumbup:

    Where it's T-ed outside, is it a pain with the fuel tank.??

    Havent heard of a pressure reducer at M/C until now. Thought thats what the bias valve does.?

    Another thing i was thinking about recently is the connections at the M/C.??
    i suppose there a few ways to do this.?
    i have 3 outlets.. So rear in one, front two stacked with double banjo bolt.? Switch in the other.?

    Any hint's or pics on what you peeps have done??[:D]
     
  18. turbotommy Forum Member

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    Many thanks Shaun [:D]
    No problems with the tank on the mk2,i think its set further back than a mk1 though.
    Some more pics to help people.

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    I fitted the extra pressure reducer to the M/C as i didn't think the Bias valve would reduce the braking enough,
    PIC.

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    its fully open & does not lock up but is working fine [:D] (hand brake is TOO GOOD)

    I have a 4 port M/C i use 2 x for the front brakes & 1 for the rear & put a bleed nipple in the 4th position so i can bleed the M/C.
    Hope this helps :thumbup:
     
  19. pj_sibley

    pj_sibley Forum Member

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    Turbotommy, I really like your installation. Seems a very good idea to position the T-piece under (rather than in) the car and then pick-up up the OE pipe routings. Now that I have all of the required bits, I'm going to have a closer look at mine this week and hopefully finish at the weekend [:D]
     
    Last edited: Mar 6, 2012
  20. pj_sibley

    pj_sibley Forum Member

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    Is there any reason why you couldn't run a single flexi hose from the chassis directly down onto the beam, with the T-piece positioned at the centre of the beam and solid lines running to the caliper flexi hoses at each end?
     

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