Good info, will report back with my readings this week and let's hope we can get everyones 16v's running properly at last!
just to let you know i replaced the brown water temperature sender on the side of the head and it runs soo much better when cold now. I still need to test the csv as i tried it the other day and i couldn't get it to spray! saying that tho the engine was warm...
how much was the sender mate? worth a try if it's cheap i think. any need to reset CO / idle after changing?
Which sensor to do mean? The large brown one located under the dizzy is the thermotime switch isn't it?
The thermo times switch (the big brown one) runs the cold start injector and only runs for a maximum of about 8 seconds, and that's in extremely cold weather.
does anyone know the effect of having the metering head flap too high or too low?? mines correct as far i can can see, but just curious
The ideal is as per the diagram. If it's too low or too high it can cause, as Jettas says, hunting and bad starting. If it's adjusted after the CO is set then it will bollox the CO so that'll need resetting.
Right, I plumbed in the pressure gauge this evening and got the following results: Starting from cold, time in secs on left, control pressure in bar on right (will work out in PSI when I can be bothered, you x14.5) time barpsi 03.145 - car cut out 03.551 - restarted 153.754 303.855 303.652 453.754 603.754 It then stayed at 3.7 bar (about 54psi) until up to operating temp. Obviously something isn't right there! I checked system pressure and that is at 5.2 bar which seems okay. I then stopped the engine and unbolted the WUR. With the engine running I then adjusted the WUR allen screw in the back of the unit to get 3.3 bar (48psi) at hot idle. I have bolted the WUR back on and checked it, still at 3.3bar hot idle - will check cold starting/control pressure again tomorrow evening. Any ideas what the problem is? Looks like a WUR fault to me! Incidentally, after stopping the engine, the control pressure drops to about 2.5 (36 psi) after 10 mins or so and then seems to stay there. Edited by: Stu
how about some psi stu mine dropped to 42 straight away after turning off so you still havent tried a 2nd wur?
Edited to include PSI and Bar pressures No, haven't tried different WUR yet... think I might have to soon unless I can fix this one by cleaning it out or similar.
Yep! Do you reckon my WUR is knackered then from those readings? I will give it another test from cold tonight now that I have set the hot idle control pressure correctly and report back again.
Another little update from me. I took the WUR off this evening (car has been left cold in garage all day) and tried to open it up. I could only just about crack one of the four screws that hold it together, the others were so tight I broke a screwdriver! Looks like that doesn't want to come apart then! Have left the screws with some WD40 on them for now and put it back together. I started it from cold again and checked the control pressure as it warmed up, once again it cut our first time with the pressure shooting straight upto 3 bar (45psi) in the first few seconds. Started it again and it chugged away, the pressure rose up from 3 to 3.3 bar (48psi) within 30 secs and then stayed there. Seems like the cold control pressure is way too high and since I can't separate the WUR to get inside looks like I need to replace the WUR! Anyone confirm I'm right before I source a replacement WUR?
Those screws are a complete tw4t to move sometimes. The sure way of moving them is to use an impact driver - never fails, everyones tool kit should not be complete without one http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp;jsessionid=BFNZP IK3305UNCJO2C3CIIQ?id=16735&ts=01837 Edited by: 150PDGTI
dont know how much the brown temperature sender was because i had a spare working one out of a spare head
