Mk1 2.0l 8v AGG conversion

Hey All,

I've been looking at getting my mk1 golf sorted. unfortunately the cost of getting the old DX engine fixed was costing too much, so after reading on this and other forums i've opted to go down the mk3 golf 2.0l AGG bottom end mod. First time i'm doing this and learning as I go along. If anyone has any useful tips or suggestions i would love to hear it. Pictures of the work in progress.

I was looking to get the exhaust valves made bigger from 32m to 35mm, but the machine shops i went to didnt want to do it. They said because the cylinder head was made from aluminium and sleeves from steel and didn't want to risk the sleeve dropping out.

Instead i've got a bigger throttle body and decided to clean up and smooth the intake manifold. I've also bought a 4-2-1 sportex exhaust system which should give me afew more bhp.

Test fitting the exhaust manifold



Mk3 Golf 2.0l 8v AGG Bottom End



Walls looking good



the smoothening has begun



Bigger throttle body compared to the old.



I've started to match the intake manifold to the throttle.



Parts ordered from GFS, so glad they had everything in stock.

 

When i bring the pison to tdc, and push the piston forwards and backwards it moves and makes a clicking noise. But when i push the piston from left to right it doesn't move, is that how it should be?

Also I'm looking to replace the two seals on either end of the block, whats the best way to take the pulley. does it come off like normal anti-clockwise?

 

Rock back to front you should get a few thou movement, left to right you'll get very little / none as it on the gudgeon pin. If you think of it as the 4 points of the compass N & S will be rocking on the gudgeon so you'll get some movement E & W is across the pin so very little.

One other thing take a look at my build if you've got a decent engineer co you can use just get them to re seat the valves, mill of the d sections on the top of the pistons, measure the cc of the combustion chamber, piston recess, get the TDC gap to the top of the block and then find someone that can do the compression ratio calculation and get the block decked, I had 32 thou skimmed off mine;

http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?269246-2L-cross-flow-conversion-twin-45-carbs

 

Brilliant thread jrgibb. What sort of power gains can be expected with the skim?

 

Good thread, looks like loads of people have had probs with the bolt. I think I'll leave it for now and get it done once it gets really bad.

 

update



Started cleaning the block, getting rid of the rust and grease as much as possible ready for paint.




Comparison between the mk1 dizzy and a mk1 dizzy converted to fit a agg block.



Lower block painted



One part of the breather section blocked off.

Sump painted



Next stage to start the cylinder head, I was going to port it, but no time as I want the engine in by the weekend.



Old guides being removed



Blanking plate in the process of being made.



New set of guides ready to go in



New guides installed



Old valves cleaned





Just checking the valve diameter. The valves seem goo only out by 0.01mm



Two valves lapped and sitting nice.



New guides ready to be installed.



The block ready and waiting for the cylinder head.



I'm hoping to have everything on the engine complete and ready to install into the car by the weekend.

Are the torque settings for the cylinder head the same for the dx engine and the agg?

 

Head is on, bolts torqued to 44ft/lbs with half a turn.

What is the problem people occur with the exhaust on this conversion?

Do I need to make an extension to the exhaust or can it be bent?

 

Thanks Rubjonny.

The head is on, new camshaft seal on.

Next I'm trying to figure out what cover plates work. Most of the mk3 setup will go on but needs abit of modding in places, but the top cover won't fit i.e. clip onto anything.

What does every use?

 

Thanks rubjonny, I used the mk3 back plate. I had the heat it hammer it into shape to fit properly around the alternator bracket . Also the bottom mk3 cover needed to be cut to make way for the mk1 water pump pulley. Like you say johnny, the top cover will remain loose as I'll be using the mk1 head cover. I'll have to come up with another solution to that. So far so good.

 

That's perfect.

Will try getting hold of one.

Rubjonny do you have a build thread for this conversion?

 

- with all the mods hoping for 150bhp - 160bhp the skim is to get the CR right

You may want to keep the block breather rather than covering it - I'm running to a catch can from the cam cover and block - VW meant the block to breath so let it :-)

Also i'm running without the top and bottom cam belt covers, highly unlikely anything will foul the belt. Plus it looks better imho

 

I've ended up blocking mine, and bolting the Warm up reg ontop. I'll see how it run with it blocked before changing it again. It took ages making the plate the right size and shape.

Agree removing the covers do look better. My clutch cable, speedo cable etc touch the timing belt if i leave them without.

I'll see how it runs without, as the blanking plate took some time to make. What is a FPR?

 

Update

Yesterday, the old engine came out and new one went in. I had to cut some more plastic away from the lower timing belt cover to make way for the side engine mount.


Once everything was connected up and timed i went to start the car. The car turns over, revs high then usual and turns off. I tried cranking it few times still no luck. I've checked the spark plugs and they have carbon over them. I'm assuming its over fueling.

or possibiliy the air/fuel mixture is out? too much fuel not enough air?