MK1 Cabrio build 2L cross flow + 45 carbs

Discussion in '8-valve' started by jrgibb, Jan 26, 2014.

  1. TonyB Paid Member Paid Member

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    Yeah, I got one of those to use rads. Don't need it at the moment as I've got a Pace one fitted but seemed a good solution as and when, came to the same solution regarding slanting it back.
     
  2. jrgibb

    jrgibb Forum Member

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  3. jrgibb

    jrgibb Forum Member

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    Update

    Final measurements on the block so hope to get it decked next week.

    Want to bin out the servo and stupid linkage, still not sure how best to sort this, see my thread in Chassis;

    http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?270479-Brake-bias-setup

    Electrical questions still to answer, as I'm running carbs I know I need the ignition controller module for the dizzy, plus all the obvious electrical (lights, various sensor connected back to the dash / fuse box etc). I'm probably going to remove the dash so I can tidy up the electrics by pulling it all back in through the bulkhead, plus there's a old alarm system I want to get rid of which has the control unit tucked away behind the dash.

    My main question is can I bin completely the ECU?? Does any of the required electricals run through the ECU???

    Bit of a clean clear up on the bay today, so it will be a top fill rad and the battery will be going in the boot

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  4. jrgibb

    jrgibb Forum Member

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    Update

    Loom through into the car, scuttle cut away, all servo mounting removed, dash out, old pedal box removed and shipped to Kim at HRCP for a new bias box, final calculations made with Mr Hillclimber and the block taken to Gosnays for decking (32 thou coming off). About to send off the head for Mr H (JM Racing) to work his magic, a little porting and build up the head with vernier pulley and fast road cam.

    Ordered lots of shiny things, eibach anti roll bars, lower brace, new wishbones, poly bushes and Gaz coilovers. Front suspension off today.

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  5. Toyotec

    Toyotec CGTI Committee - Happy helper at large Admin

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    Thanks for that.

    Watching with interest.
     
  6. jrgibb

    jrgibb Forum Member

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    All of the front suspension dropped out, pretty simple when there's no engine there :-) Top tip, whack the top of the control rod ball joints with a lump hammer before you turn the crown nut round and then give it a whack from underneath both popped out in one.

    First degrease and jet wash, not looking too shabby for a car with 200,000 on the clock, breaking down the suspension and in the bay with the grinder for some more tidying up and begin the prep for spraying;

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  7. jrgibb

    jrgibb Forum Member

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    Reconditioning continues

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  8. jrgibb

    jrgibb Forum Member

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    Fuel pump update

    Some more detail on this. Depending on your car the existing set up may differ slightly. However, you'll need a red or silver top facet or similar, they rate these up to 150 bhp then up to 200 bhp so pick the right one.

    If there's no fuel return on your carbs you can remove the existing fuel return pipe. You can remove the exiting accumulator, filter and pump a the rear of the car near the tank and the existing fuel filter in the engine bay. Best place to fit the new pump is in the old recess and use the existing wiring, this is important as power to the pump from the existing wiring is dependent on there being a signal from the rev counter so this covers the Facet recommendation for a oil pressure safety switch. If you are looking at powering this in another way I'd suggest an inertia cut off.

    Engine bay ready

    2K primer and VW Alpine white (I suspect this car may have been resprayed as the Alpine seems to be a more creamy white - hay ho just glad I didn't do a exterior panel!)

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    Engine

    JM Racing doing their thing head porting coming along very nicely! Begin building up the engine in the next few days, can then re measure the TDC position for the CR to be calculated and the head correctly cam'd. Can't believe I'm going to be building back up this weekend. No rush, slow and steady ;)

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    Last edited: May 8, 2014
  9. Hot Water Forum Member

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    Keep the updates up thanks!
     
  10. benthejettaman Forum Member

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    how did i miss this thread, ive always been interested in this concersion, keep the updates coming
     
  11. jrgibb

    jrgibb Forum Member

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    Update 10th May

    Big day, well a turning point anyway - First things going back on, new sound proofing (to cover up the old cracked nasty looking stuff - really could face heat gun and scrapper!), waiting for the new push on edging for where the scuttle was cut away. Heater fan back in, wiper mech sprayed black and will be going back on later.

    Plus - It's NOT alpine white, it's been re sprayed at some point! Ahhhhhhhhhh!

    But for a 42p thrust ring - Building the outer CV joints back up and realise there wasn't a thrust ring on either side, that'd be the occasional knocking then!!! - That job'll have to wait until those parts come in from the dealer.

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    Got the steering rack back in, new wishbones, Eibach arb and a lower brace, all polybushed.

    Tip with the arb keep everything as loose as possible including the rear wishbone mount. Then get the clamp at the end of the arb onto the wishbones, THEN tighten everything up as it's all under tension, if you tighten everything up then try to get the arb ends clamped onto the wishbones it'll never happen.

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    Last edited: May 10, 2014
    Sirguydo likes this.
  12. jrgibb

    jrgibb Forum Member

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    All that Gaz - gonna replace the bolt, camber adjustment bolt and plates the old ones are fubar'd

    Getting the top nut on was a bugger (just getting it past the nylon lock for the first time), thankfully there was some meat on the shaft at the bottom of the thread to gentle hold the shaft enough to turn the nut through, then a compressor gun got it down enough to tighten onto the top plate, then it was plain sailing with a ring spanner and 12mm on the squared section at the top of the threaded shaft. Also cut down the original bump stops and put them on and greased the thread for easy adjustment.

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    Last edited: May 11, 2014
    Sirguydo likes this.
  13. jrgibb

    jrgibb Forum Member

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    Update 23rd May

    Engine build moving forward, new bearings, rings, main seals - TDC is 25 thou proud pretty much bang on for the compression ratio target, Mr H will be cam'ing the head, vernier pulley having ported the head, on target for 140 - 150bhp after flow testing.

    Note - I'm not capping the breather, going to leave it and fit an oil catcher.

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  14. jrgibb

    jrgibb Forum Member

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    Update 31st May / 1st June

    Thought the days was going well, the remainder of the front suspension when on this morning, new coilover, disks cleaned up, back on, new pads, calipers back on, braided hoses (shiny) then noticed the offside bearing was completely goosed, so all off. Not got the kit to press out the old bearings so will take to my local garage next week - waisted morning, so off I went and got new bearings and took my wife's spare wheel down the local kwik fit to replace to tyre (she'd had a puncture in the week) - While I was waiting chatting to one of the guys there who owns 2 Scoobies, mentioned the bearings, bring them down tomorrow I'll press out the put in the new bearing for you - Petrol heads stick together!!!

    So after that morning I decided to work on the engine, cut down the pinion and fitted the take up sandwich for the Mocal oil rad and binned out the old water sandwich. Plus begun the process of installing the HRCP Bias Box, cut away the original mount and the lower mount for the column to create as much room as possible for the new box and column. I am organised honest, although the picture would suggest otherwise!

    Beer o'clock! :thumb:

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    Installed

    Nice piece of kit, fits lovely - Congrats to HRCP!!! :clap: Need to drill two holes up through to the shelf near the wiper to bolt it in at the top, the box then sits really solid, suggest cutting out the lower column fixing plate on the car itself just to get more room, another tip just to ease the installation is to compress the spring at the bottom of the steering column and hold it (compressed) with some cable ties. This makes fitting to the cv joint a lot easier, then cut the ties on the spring when all fitted together.

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    Not looking forward to sorting the wiring! :-(

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    Last edited: Jun 1, 2014
  15. seanlikesfood

    seanlikesfood Paid Member Paid Member

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    Did you get the info on whether you needed the ecu or not?
     
  16. jrgibb

    jrgibb Forum Member

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    There was no ECU on my car (my bad it's only the later cabs that had a ecu). Your timing (excuse the pun) is perfect, I'm just about to sort out the dizzy, I believe the original DX dizzy with the ignition controller module or TCI will work however I will be checking this shortly to make sure and see if the adapter ring is needed etc. Will report back ;)
     
  17. jrgibb

    jrgibb Forum Member

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    Update 7th June

    Had new bearings pressed in this week so front suspension now back on, rears back on and the car back down off the stands and on it's wheels. Carefully rolled her out onto the drive to see the sun and gave her a well needed wash. Think I may be a bit low at the back but I'll fiddle around with that when the engines back in and it up and running.

    From this . . .

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    To this . . . (the wood is the only form of braking on the car at the moments eek)

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    Last edited: Jun 7, 2014
  18. tones61

    tones61 Forum Member

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    someone stole your axle stands !!!!!!!!!

    :o

    lol
     
  19. jrgibb

    jrgibb Forum Member

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    No it's the Hover Mk1 had to go back to wheels the Flux Capacitor was all out of whack :-)
     
  20. tones61

    tones61 Forum Member

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    ~ MOT TESTING ~ plymouth

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