Update 14th June Old fuel pipe removed and the fuel return capped off. New fuel line connected and run to the Facet in the boot, power for the old pump pulled through back into the car and will be used to power the Facet, it has the cut off built in, it'll disconnect if no revs read from the sender. Offside rear pads replaced and the handbrake cable connected - The car now has a handbrake! Wooden chokes no longer needed. Got a brake pipe flare tool in the week and pipe, connectors 3 way connectors etc, I learnt how to make my own brake pipes today, installed the reservoir and connected to the two master cylinders on the bias box. Always good to learn new stuff Oh - There was a bit of a rattle at the back of the car when I rocked it, which I wasn't happy about given it's all new suspension, bushes etc - Probably best if I actually tighten up the rear swinging arm, both bolts were just finger tight and it was the large washer rattling DOOOH - That could have ended badly!!! JMRacing have got the new cam for the head and will be building up the head next week it's been ported and flow tested, a thumbs up from Mr Hillclimber - Newman 272 cam
New exhaust manifold arrived today Ashley 4-1 (AVWM 5), direct from Ashley 195 delivered - Need to mate it to the very nice SuperSprint exhaust that was already on the car. Lots of info from TonyB and Mr H on working the mani to match to ports and the rework required, plus lots of other tips to make sure it all operates 100% -
Update 21st June More work on the brakes. I'm running a single line inside the car from the master cylinder down the centre of the car (along side the gear change / hand brake), then under the base of the seat, through the large hole where the wiring runs and then up and over the rear arch under the plastic trim (there heaps of room) back to the rear brace beam (it's a cabriolet so will need to be a slightly different set up on a tin top) then used a three way and run the lines back over the wheel arch the the seat recess and out under the car near the flexi pipe. I decided to run to the rear of the car with access through the boot so all of the junctions are easily accessible rather than under carpet etc - Both to easily check for initial leak and for any future mods or changes. PS I've been to see my local garage to check on MOT regs and they only test on what they see so no problems with running pipework in the car. - Thought I'd check would have been mightily hacked off if this had been a massive MOT fail
Its the Eibach ARB front and rear. Plus bolt on clamps at the rear which are much better than the std given the larger diameter of the ARB and the poly bushes (it's the original clamps in the pic above, decided to change) Here on eBay
Update 28th June 2014 Finished the rear brake system all back to the master cylinder, just the front to do now. Plus run the new power lead from the back to the fuse box. Had a brain wave in the week to use the spare sound proofing I have to protect the brake cable when running internally to prevent any rubbing on the body work. Great stuff for this, run a thin section for the pipe to sit on top of then a wider piece over the top. It's got a strong peel back adhesive and moulds over the pipes beautifully. All finished off and seats back in, making progress. Starting on the engine, gearbox side, new clutch going on. Plus am removing the cam cover on the other side, going to run coverless
27th July Back at it, been a little distracted with a new track car. Battery in and tested the facet pump, working fine. Going to get the starter and alt recon'd. Plus gearbox all cleaned up and ready. Notice I still managed to get a Golf involved!
The dizzy conundrum Ok so, we have carbs so it's the gear off the dizzy that came with you're 2 Litre engine or a suitable donor dizzy, onto the original DX distributor (which has the built in advance curve) part number 206 905 205 A or AK. Plus the ignition controller module or TCI and an adaptor ring so it'll fit onto the engine. NOTE - I'm not sure if the TSR or the Techtronics (in the US) adapter rings are any good for this conversion as you're using the original DX dizzy and it will fit at the same height in the new block. You need and adapter ring of the following dimensions - Outer diameter 44.5mm with an inner hole of 34.5mm and 4mm thick (height) A lovely man in Cornwall is getting one made up for me - helpful as ever! Getting the gears off is a real bi%^&. If you have torch (the flame type not the bulb type) heat it up and whack it, and I mean whack it with a punch, you'll need a decent vice to hold it in - if you have access to a friendly garage get the pins pressed out. DONE IT!!! - The dizzy you need is the one on the right, the gear underneath that in the picture is the one you're fitting so it'll correctly engage with the secondary shaft. All cleaned up and ready to go!
Hi there, sorry for the late reply, things move slowly on this project for me. Just joined the JMR forum I have just started again on my sons truck and the list of things to do is getting bigger and bigger ! The head i believe is from a beetle but not sure which one I will post on the JMR form now, is MR Hillclimber JMR then ?
Yep sure is. There's also a JMR section here on this forum. Top, top guy! PS I'm mostly posting over here now, no particular reason other than one place saves me duplicating. I'll be updating both when the project ends . . . I hope soon. Hopefully the head will be back in the next week or so and I'll be finishing the engine build, it should move forward quickly then - Still think late Sept / Oct. Re the head seems some of these cross flow are low flow, mine, the AKL and I think some of the Beetle??? The best are the ABA from the US, there may be others I don't know. Anyway if it's low flow the ports are very small and need more work to bring them out to size and the bowls re shaping - Bottom line if your going to get the head re worked make sure whoever does it has the equipment to properly flow test it!!! Shiny does not = best. Working heads is a real black art there's no substitute for experience AND the right equipment to prove things are working Before After
Thanks for the reply, pin-ponging about between different forums lol OK i did reply to you over there so will ask you a different Q now if you don't mind Just looking at a manifold and seen that you have a Ashley one, how did you get on with the fittment ? I was looking at this one http://www.tsr-performance.com/webs...v-models-9-83-92-tsrgolf2mani8v-8v-pb-engine/ Any thoughts ?
I've gone for the Ashley - TSR did do a mani for the 8V 2l conversion (the block is a little taller) but I don't think they do any more. Chances are this will need some "fettling" to get it to fit. I went for the Ashley simply based on some of the guys on the JMR using them (some in race cars) and confirming they will fit with some work (not a lot), I've not fitted mine yet so this will be reported on when the time comes. Plus the Ashley is cheaper, go direct to Ashley they have them on the shelf, 195 delivered. AVWM 5 Golf Mk1 Gti 16/1800 4-1 http://www.ashleycompetitionexhausts.com/manifolds.html If you can afford it go Super Sprint - I was lucky manifold back is all Supersprint http://www.supersprint.com/en/IT/prodt-5-7074-1.aspx
Just sent TSR an Email asking about a tall block manifold. I know Brian Ashley (used to deal with him in my cosworth days) he is quite local as well, but will Waite and see what TSR says. The car / truck came with a stainless steel manifold but that was cracked and is now in 2 parts ! I could tig weld it back together but i think it is just a cheap copy. Again thanks for your help
Hi all, Cannot believe it's been almost three months, been distracted by another project, an MX5 track car which started off as a std MK1 take it to the track occasionally then put it away in my mates yard . . . . . unfortunately the MX5 is such a good car for the track we've got carried away, stripping out the car, de cat, sports exhaust, new rims, race seat, roll cage, harnesses, you get the picture. HOWEVER! This absolute work of art will be arriving in the next few days and the engine build will be back on;
Only just looked at the thread nice work thanks just one thought on the heads s an AWG head suitable as this is a 2L engine anyway possibly better flow than the 1.6 from the start ? only asking as I am doing a 2L conversion on my mk2 but using the PB head with standard fuel injection but saw the AWG head and wondered if any good for a X flow carb conversion for the future on either a 2L or 1.8 block.
Not sure mate, i know there's a few options out there. The challenge is matching to the block and being aware of any issues like the head bolt on the AKL and getting a gasket match. I went for the AKL as it was a recommendation from someone with details of all such issues and how to fix them and the parts needed. J Another pic;
Looking good Jason.....surprised you haven't sent that flywheel off to be lightened by Hotgolf though to help it spin up nice and quick By the way what cam did you go for in the end? Tim
