Easy fellas I'm Ian from Birmingham. I'm completely new to this, I'm looking for some advice on a engine swap I've just started. Mk1 caddy 1.6d to 1.8 16 v kr. Such as: Standard kjet injection or twin carbs? Can I use the engine mounts? Will a mk2 exhaust manifold fit? How to tackle the wiring? Cheers
1. up to you 2. yep 3. only with custom downpipe 4. get a ce1 kr loom if going full injection, it plugs straight in just needs most of the loom shortening and some lengthening on the throttle side. get some proper terminals and you can chop back most the scraggy rotten wiring to the engine and crimp to nice fresh copper. if going carbs just need the 16v ecu loom, run a wire to the coil from fusebox and couple tweaks to sensor wiring thats about it really. ideally run the ecu red/yellow fuel relay trigger to D/13 (diesel has a wire here for glowplug relay) then run fuel pump to E/14, or you can use N but have to put a fuse inline as its before the fusebox fuse this might help: https://www.clubgti.com/forums/inde...mk1-cabby-several-years-in-the-making.186766/
Thanks for the advice. Think I'm gonna with carbs as sounds a little easier than full injection. I currently have 16v ce2 full loom and ecu and 16v ce2 clocks. Can I use these? Really want a rev counter .
for the clocks you'll have to splice wiring, the ce2 mk2 loom isnt much use as the fusebox is different and on the other side of the car so nothing reaches or plugs in inside mk1 golf or mk2 polo clocks with rev counter fit, if its a polo set you need to swap your speedo over as the smallblock gearbox has slightly different calibration. prob handy to do this regardless as then can keep mileage
Would it work if I get a mk2 ce2 fuse box reroot the wiring and use the ce2 loom/ clocks and ecu? As the 16v clocks got to 8000rpm not 7000rpm.
you could move fusebox to driver side but the engine and lighting looms go thru holes on the driver side so you will either have to extend/reroute or drill new holes, or extend all the internal wiring to suit. no matter what way you do it some wire splicing is required so the easiest way would be to splice the mk2 plug on the mk1 dash wiring keep everything else caddy
Thanks for advice, think I'm gonna try moving the fuse box to the drivers side and drilling a hole for the that part of the loom to go through. I'll keep you posted
Hi mate, I hope you are well. Im getting to the final stages of the conversion. I wondered whether you could help me with a couple of things. 1. The metering head I have dosent have the WUR outlets. Can I run it without the WUR? 2. I paid for the loom to be converted ce2 golf kr loom to fit ce1 caddy fuse box. I don't seem to have plugs for the throttle switch on the throttle body and idle control valve. Does this sound right? Cheers
1. Not really no, the car will be crap while warming up. You probably have a motronic type metering head I guess which has electronic valves to control warmup pressure 2. That's not right no, without throttle switch the ECU and isv controller won't see idle condition and cold throttle enrichment won't work. Is it definitely a KR engine, loom and fuel system you have
Hi mate, thanks for the reply. Yes you are completely right I have purchase the correct mechanical metering head today. Which answers my other question, the 3pin and 2 pin plug I had in the metering head is now free to be put in the throttle switch and the isv. Does this sound right? Are there 2 different isv? The one I brought has the 2 pin connectors the gap between the is wider than any plug connectors I have. Thanks again.
Ye sounds right, is this linked with the plug on throttle switch on the throttle body? If so my throttle switch has a 3pin and the plug I have left will be a 2 pin.
It's over the other side with oil temp and earth to head, as I say it's white and white/black wires 3 pin plug but middle pin is empty. Over on driver side you should have a white and black 2 pin for cold throttle enrichment valve which is the metal thing on the back of the airbox, and black/yellow and brown/black 2 pin which is over-run cut-off valve for the big grey and black plastic valve plumbed into the inlet pipe and airbox
ok keep hunting, its over on the passenger side white and white/black. if you look at the fusebox side the isv wires are on a 2 pin spade plug near the bigger one with all the other isv control unit wiring
I'm definatley missing that. I can't get hold of the guy who did it. Is it possible he may of left it off? I've sent a photo of the plug on the isv