Mk1 caddy 1.6d engine swap 1.8 16v kr

Discussion in 'Say 'hello' in here.' started by _E_, Sep 30, 2020.

  1. _E_

    _E_ Forum Member

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    I thought so, before I changed them I had fuel at all 4 injectors. I changed them because of poor pattern and dripping on injector 4.
     
  2. _E_

    _E_ Forum Member

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    Hi mate, got fuel to all injectors and it runs for about 2/3 seconds then dies. I'm guessing this is to do with the isv not working? I still haven't got spark with red/black connected to the coil and 244 relay disconnected. Any ideas?
     
  3. _E_

    _E_ Forum Member

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    Hi mate, i think I may have found the problem. I have a wire coming out of D15 on the fuse box not going anywhere. Is this something to do with coil resistant? Would that explain no spark? Thanks
     
  4. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    purple/white on D/15 is old points ignition wire which is binned off when you go electronic ignition. you need to run a fresh wire from fusebox to coil
     
  5. _E_

    _E_ Forum Member

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    Hi mate, so I don't run it from D15? Does this mean I'm missing a wire from fuse box to positive? Also could be the reason for isv problems and spark? Thanks
     
  6. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    factory the electronic ignition feed comes from D/23, you could use d/15 if you de-pinned and replaced with fresh technically since its ignition live but I wouldnt want to risk the load on the smaller pin
     
  7. _E_

    _E_ Forum Member

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    Great, I will put a fresh wire from D23 to the the coil positive. Hopefully that sort it out lol. Thanks for all you're help.
     
  8. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    where is the ignition feed coming from now?
     
  9. _E_

    _E_ Forum Member

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    I will have to check. When I get home. I followed the red/black wires from the coil which goes to plug for 244 relay and d25 for the rev counter. I'm not sure why I get no spark when that gets connected.
     
  10. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    if car gets spark and starts without the 244 relay plugged in all it can be is duff relay or it hasnt got all the feeds it needs. I guess it may be the battery is poor or theres issues with the fusebox wiring dropping power to the coil... if you check volts at coil what do you see ignition on and while cranking, probe from battery earth while you do this
     
  11. _E_

    _E_ Forum Member

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    Hi mate, just check voltage to coil black wire from D23 its is 12v ignition 9v on cranking.

    Relay 244 ignition/ cranking
    Green 0v / 0v
    White/black 0.3v /0.3v
    Yellow/black 0.02v/ 0.2v
    White 4v/ 4v
    Brown/black 12v /9v
    Black 12v/ 9v
    Red /black 9v/ 9v
    Green/ Red 2v/2v

    I've tried to find out puts for the 244 relay, which has proved difficult.

    What do you think to those readings?

    Could it be a faulty throttle switch?
     
    Last edited: Jan 24, 2022
  12. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    9v cranking is a little lower than I'd like, but may still be enough. get it jump started to see if it helps.

    isv relay wiring:
    black - ignition live
    brown/white - earth to head
    green/red - coolant temp sensor
    green - aircon
    yellow/black - idle switch (this obv isnt working, it should be ignition live throttle closed)
    red/black - rev counter (pulsed negative)
    black/brown - over-run cut-off valve (goes to earth on over-run)
    white - isv
    white/black - isv

    so from this, you need to check your idle switch and wiring. the black wire to it should have ignition live, yellow/black goes to ecu and isv unit (12v throttle closed) and white goes to cold throttle over-run (12v throttle open)
     
  13. _E_

    _E_ Forum Member

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    Thanks for you're help.
     
  14. _E_

    _E_ Forum Member

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    Hi mate, not sure where to go with this feel like setting it on fire.

    Symptoms:
    no spark when red/black connected to coil.
    Spark with just green connected to coil.
    Isv not buzzing on ignition just one click on ignition.

    Throttle switch checks

    12v black wire ignition on
    Yellow/black wire 12v throttle closed.
    White 12v throttle open.
    Resistance check
    Ohms pin 2 and 3 throttle closed
    1. Pin 1
    Reversed when throttle open.

    12v ecu pin6 ( counting from hook end across the top)
    12v isv controller pin 8 yellow/black( i don't think the throttle was closed fully when I checked yesterday.)
    12v cold enrichment valve throttle open.

    I'm not sure what to check next.
     
  15. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    ok, plug it all back in. remove the isv relay. do you still loose spark
     
  16. _E_

    _E_ Forum Member

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    Ye still no spark. Could the problem be within the rev counter wiring?
     
  17. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    unplug the clocks as well, see if you still loose spark. if you do, theres a short in the red/black somewhere in the harness
     
  18. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    one thing. on the diesel there would be a 2 pin plug near battery with blue and red/black wires in that goes off to the alternator. you only need the blue wire, the red/black is no longer needed
     
  19. _E_

    _E_ Forum Member

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    Ok I will try both of those things when I'm home, what is the plug by the battery for? If I do get spark with clocks unplugged, does that mean the clocks are at fault?
     
  20. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    its for the alternator and rev counter, on the diesels the rev counter signal comes from alternator pin W. on the petrol engines it comes from the coil. the blue wire is for the battery light on all engines
     

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