MK2 3 door build - turbo'd and 4WD (CAGE PICS ADDED Page 4)

Like this. Looking forward to seeing how you progress etc etc. Best of luck with it.

 

rear caliper brackets made up now.

I was considering getting someone to make these for me, however as id like to put my paws on as much of this build as possible i thought it really cannot be that hard.

As I'm using virtually an entire Audi S3 including the tunnel this allows me to use the handbrake lever and more importantly the handbrake cables, I'm also using the rear calipers from an S3 (same as mk4 4motion and mk4 R32).

The S3 uses 256mm vented rear discs that are 22mm wide obviously 5x100 pattern, so after a quick search i found that early mk3 vr6 front discs are 280mm but AND they are also 22mm wide (later ones were a little thicker) the offset of the disc is a little different to the S3 rears but as I need to fabricate the brackets for the callipers this didn't matter.

So i had the choice of paying someone most likely a couple of hundred quid to make the brackets and have to take the trailing arms, callipers and discs to them to work from, or my preferred option as stated - DIY.

Professionally made ones would most likely be out of some high aero grade ali and very light, cnc milled and amazing, mine would be made from steel, so will be heavier but will also be stronger.

They are made from 12mm mild steel plate, the caliper to meet the disc offset also needed a further 12mm spacer, and to mount them on the trailing arms a couple of small 6mm spacers, all 3 spacer pieces were welded onto the main bracket, so far they have just been etch primed and will be painted in the next few days, the pics of one bolted on are clearly not using the bolts in the pics - just there as its what i had laying about, new high tensile bolts have been ordered, and will be here in around the same time the bolts arrive.

Anyway the pics will explain more









The best thing, these were all made with no high end tools simply

Angle grinder
Bench grinder
Hand drill
Welder (even thats not required really as its just fixing the spacer plates to the main bracket and the bolts would hold them in place)

and all done for 15 - cost of the 12mm plate

 

Very good on those brackets more satisfying than buying them.

 

cheers, quite right as much as saving cash is a good thing its nice to of actually fab'd them up myself

 

Sounds interesting. That's true that Passats b3/b4 had 25mm front ARB, when golf had 18mm or a bit thicker.

For example there two rear ARB's:
1996 Passat B4 Syncro 2.9 135kW ABV
1986 Golf mk2 Syncro 1.8 66kW
Both are the same in thickness, but VR6 appears to be a bit wider because of known reason. VR6 rear part is a widetrack as the front ofcourse.

 

the part number for the one i bought is for a passat g60 estate, 25mm and fits, you can buy the brackets and bushes from classic parts too but they are a lot, so ill just look on powerflex's website and buy some 25mm bushes and either source some brackets that could fit or make some up.

from what i have seen the passat vr6 rear one was the same as the mk2 at 18mm (same size as i already have)

there is a 29mm rear syncro arb too for the passat syncro that was fitted as part of the towing pack i also found out, but i think on a lighter mk2 25mm is plenty big enough

 

Very good progress bud, great build

 

thanks very much, all i need now is 600+ hp like your Lupo

 

Yep great thread and lots of useful info here!

I'm curious about the ARB as I was under the (possibly wrong) impression before that the Rallye / G60 Syncro had 25mm as standard. I'll have to look at the one on mine. I'd heard about this a while back on the VWSyncro forum.

 

i was always told from the VWsyncro forum that the rallye was 18mm as there is a guy on there that used the passat G60 syncro rear one as an upgrade, either way the one i had was only 18mm and that was never going to be good enough

 

tell a lie it was dub force - thread here

http://www.dubforce.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=18799

 

no idea mate, i just remember reading somewhere there was a 29mm for a towing pack on the passat estate, to be honest every arb setup I've seen has a thicker front to the rear so going 29mm on the rear even if i could get it would be too big, not that i have tried it of course

 

nice new parts arrived today for the car,

KW V3 rallye coilovers direct from KW in ze germanland





and a multipoint cage from custom cages that someone is going to fit and weld in for me for 400 to 500 (with additional braces from the rear of the cage to the beam i fitted between the rear chassis rails for the diff mount, gussets to the A and B pillars and door bars)






not sure whether they always do it but my main hoop is made from T45 when i ordered a CDS cage

 

Great work ! - will this be making a road appearance by the end of the year?

 

thanks, as for a finish date... not sure to be honest, every chance if i get the time to do it

 

getting prepped for the cage to be fitted so i cut the roof skin off today (carbon roof skin bought and will be fitted)

started by making a very high tech device to accurately measure a uniform 15mm from the edge of the roof all round



added masking tape all round to use the above high tech tool



then using a slit disc on an angle grinder and a small hole saw for the corners cut the roof skin off



should make it a lot easier for the cage to be fitted, no need to cut the floor out and drop the cage through now.

 

i know have a fully working propshaft, the front section needed about 100mm removing from it.

Whilst the engine was in the car and the custom dogbone mount bolted up to set the engine level i had a cut down front section of an S3/4motion prop cut down and crudely welded 2x pieces of angle to it to fix the length, then i get another front section (i have quite a few in stock) score a line along its length as shown



then i cut it in half, used the edge of a piece of paper wrapped around the tube to get a nice square end, ground it back to that paper line, cut out what i needed to to get it to the correct length, squared off the other edge then set about joining to two pieces together.

the inside diameter of the prop is 49.8mm, so i got hold of a piece of 50mm tube, used 6 inches of it to sleeve the inside of the prop to keep it the 2 parts square to them selves, before i did the sleeving i drilled 4x 10mm holes in both sections of the prop and bevelled the mating edges of the propshaft pieces, then i pressed the tube into the prop (i heated the prop section up too to expand it a little) got my mate to puddle TIG weld the holes in the side that had the sleeve pressed into it, then pressed the other side of the prop onto the sleeve (had the 1st part welded up so the sleeve wouldn't move whilst the other part was being pressed onto the sleeve.

Then he TIG welded the other holes up and TIG welded the join all the way round, i made sure that the both sections of the prop were lined up along the score mark i made, this way i might not end up having to get the prop balanced as the holes were drilled every 90 degrees around the prop, obviously there will be tiny weight differences in the weld but it remains to be seen if it needs to be balanced, if it does its hardly a big job to get the front section off the car again.



old paint cleaned off



primed and painted up

 

Love it!!