mk2 8v engine mounts

Discussion in 'Engines' started by matrix, Apr 18, 2005.

  1. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    I replaced the knackered hydralic gearbox mount with a nice new 16v/1.3 solid rubber one on saturday and my car is so much smoother coming off/on power! I defo recomend you do it if you havent already :thumbup:
     
  2. Carl loader Forum Member

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    Alright rubjonny, don't suppose you got a part number for that 16v/1.3 gearbox mount, and was it a vw or gsf part?
     
  3. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    I got mine from VW Spares

    Gearbox Mount 1.0-1.3 15928
    Gearbox Mount 1.8 GTi 16v 91-92 (from Ch. 1G-MW-080001) 15928

    As you can see they are the same part number :) The bits are Febi branded who I believe are OEM suppliers.

    Looking at ETKA I think the VW part # is 191 199 381 A :)
    Edited by: rubjonny
     
  4. dan98 Forum Member

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    I think DIGIs are OK - mines way more economical than the two k-jets i've
    had, and much more reliable at starting (infact in 5 years its never not
    started on the button).
    Theyre just as fast and can be just as smooth-
    Just get it sorted and you'll happy;
     
  5. matrix Forum Member

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    do those throttle switches need replacing at all then i know mine works but do they get worse as they get older.
     
  6. Carl loader Forum Member

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    Hi all

    I've wondered all along if the pesky blue temp sender had something to do with this problem, and i think i may have the proof.....

    Over last couple of weeks, i've been trying to see if there is a particular situation that the engine bucks more often i.e. at different temperatures. I've found that when i start up, and while the engine is just warm (just registering on the temp gauge), the engine dosen't seem to buck as much. Its not until the engine has reached full operating temp that the bucking is at its worse.

    So last night, i took my temp sender out and noticed that the bottom of it was covered in a thin black layer. So i got a bit of fine wet and dry and sanded some of it off to leave bare metal exposed, popped it back in, started her up, and when i took her out for a spin, it didn't seem half as bad as normal, especially when coming off the throttle.

    I've ordered myself a new temp sender from vw. Make sure you get the blue one though, my local dealer was trying to tell me that the blue was just for catalyst equiped cars, even though i don't have one, and the part no on mine is the same as the catalyst one.

    Don't know if this helps, but try and see if your cars act the same at different temps. Ill report back when new temp sender is fitted ;)
     
  7. Josh Gateh New Member

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    Sorry to hijack thread, but Rubjonny, are you referring to solid 'rear mounts' here or the front one? Also, what is the difference between the 16v and the other mounts?
     
  8. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    the gearbox one, by solid I mean bonded rubber rather than hydraulic. there are a few combos of 16v front and gearbox mounts depending on the age as you can see here:
    https://www.vwspares.co.uk/VW_Golf_Mk2_Engine-Mounts.php?model=1.8 GTi 16v

    but the rear one is always the bigger hydro type which bolts straight to the subframe rather than the rubber 8v one which has a separate bracket on the subframe it attaches to
     
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  9. Josh Gateh New Member

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    Thank you for your response Rubjonny.
    I did a 1.8T swap and used 8v mounts all round from a '90 8v. I want to replace the mounts as it seems I have engine movement/clanking, particularly on take-off. Confirmed this over the weekend. So, in short I'd need to get 'solid' front and gearbox mounts (the site says the gbox ones are '91-'92, will it make a difference in fitting?) and the rear mount?
     
  10. rubjonny

    rubjonny Administrator Staff Member Admin

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    bonded rubber front and box plus 16v rear is the strongest standard setup, but may find its still not enough depending what you've done to the engine. they're dirt cheap so not a massive issue, try to get decent german made brand. I'd go to AVS anyway all their stuff has been tip top for me

    if you need more theres vibratechnics stuff, or could swap to mk3 subframe so you can use the beefier 16v/vr6 rear mount. for the front if you can source a corrado vr6 front carrier you can use a vr6 front as well. would need the matching mk3 abf/tdi rear bracket for the mk3 subframe, it'll work with the existing front mount and bracket. If you find a corrado vr6 front carrier then you'd use the abf/tdi front bracket as well
     
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  11. Josh Gateh New Member

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    I've put in a standard 1.8t AUQ setup ATM, and I'm not too demanding on it. Corrado VR6s are rarer than hen's teeth here in Nairobi. Mk3 subframes are easier to get but TBH it seems a tad bit much effort for the reward, so I guess I'll head on over to ebay and check out German/ Vibra mounts. Thanks for the heads up Rubjonny! Cheers
     

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